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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. pediwear

    pediwear Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Jul 23, 2012
    Location:
    Halifax, West Yorkshire, England
    Oops yes, I stand corrected. All please note that my previous posting should have read 'hand welted' rather than Goodyear welted. I hope Mr Vass and co will forgive me for overlooking their time consuming and highly skilled hand welting process. I don't have any excuse, I even have Mr Vass's book describing the process!

    I have yet to break in my pair of Vass welted shoes, however, I suspect that the wearer would not notice much difference between breaking in a pair of hand welted or Goodyear welted shoes?
     
  2. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Mar 13, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    h​

    StC doesn't hand stitch any soles unless you buy bespoke. They use machine to stitch leather soles.

    And, as can be seen on my own pair, rubber soles are not stitched att all.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2016
  3. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

    Messages:
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    ^^^ Regarding the last pages of discussion about rubber soles, much have already been said, but thought I'd add a bit. Basically no one fully hand stitch a rubber sole. When you put an awl through rubber and remove it, the rubber immediately closes up, unlike leather where you then have an open hole to pull the needle and thread through. This makes it very hard to hand stitch rubber soles, and awls can break and needles get damaged.

    With proper glue and (for rubber soles you always use glue, not paste) especially with that reinforcement stitch at the toe there's likely no problem with soles coming off, and if it gets loose at the edge somewhere in time (which happens every now and then with fully sewn leather soles as well) it's easily glued back together.

    The only thing I have problem with regarding how Vass do their rubber soles is that they use a full rubber heel (at least last time I ordered). I definitely prefer leather heel stacks and only the top piece in rubber, as it's usually made by most brands.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    4 people like this.
  4. cypi2

    cypi2 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 23, 2014
    I am about to have the same pair of Vass MTO redone for the second time because of some significant issue: toe cap that should not have been there had been added on the first pair made, and the color is wrong on the first re-do.

    I wanted to ask those who might have been in similar situations what the outcome was in their cases.

    Did Vass eventually deliver the shoes made to specifications? Or else?...
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
  5. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Nov 1, 2012
    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Your balanced perspective on these matters is most welcome.
     
  6. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    May 31, 2014
    The only time I had a pair redone was when they made a pair in brown calf instead of brown shell.
    Other than that I've accepted pairs with the color being slightly different, or minor style deviations-- they're are all part of the vass charm.
    If I were more particular about the exact color/style details, I'd probably look elsewhere.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  7. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 11, 2014
    There have been far too few pictures of late, so I thought I would share the following. I stopped by my local tailor shop yesterday who has an account with Vass and saw these...

    [​IMG]
    Brown Museum Calf, Brown, Oxblood, Black, Brown. Really, really beautiful, with the Museum Calf wingtips being the star of the show...
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  8. cypi2

    cypi2 Senior member

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    Sep 23, 2014
    Thanks for your thoughts. I guess you are right: While I own several pairs of Vass RTW and I enjoy them very much, it seems it could be difficult to get a pair of MTO shoes made to exact specifications. It is my first MTO experience with Vass, and, I did not know or expect that when I started this process.
     
  9. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    With all due respect, I don't think rather glaring errors are charming, and I would consider wrong color and significant styling details glaring.

    I would expect and hope (assuming shoes are remain unworn) Vass to be willing to remake products featuring such errors.
     
  10. cypi2

    cypi2 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 23, 2014
    With all due respect, I don't think rather glaring errors are charming, and I would consider wrong color and significant styling details glaring.

    I would expect and hope (assuming shoes are remain unworn) Vass to be willing to remake products featuring such errors.
    With regards to your expectations, I can reassure you that they have been met both by the retailer handling my order and by Vass: The retailer has been most helpful and has promptly asked for the shoes to be re-done. Vass has not refused to re-do the shoes so far.

    My only concern is that the shoes have not been made to order (I share your opinion that the differences were significant enough to warrant re-dos), and, I thought I'd check with others who might have had similar experiences.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  11. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    With all due respect you misconstrued my comment.

    Vass will remake them as many times as you ask. I was mentioning the fact that I had only once encountered a glaring eror worth a remake. Other than that shades of many leathers from them will vary somewhat (esp the "antique cognac" calf or shell), and they will occasionally veer from specs (such as edge color, pinked goyser or no pinking, brogueing in the heel for for perf cap toe oxfords or not, etc), neither of which are particularly bothersome to me. I guess I lack the patience to go through multiple remakes for such things, but as the OP notes, Vass (and said retailer) has indeed agreed to remake them, as they should.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    2 people like this.
  12. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    I figured that was the case. Was glad to hear Vass was willing to make good. I also agree about the color. Slight variations are certainly reasonable.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. cypi2

    cypi2 Senior member

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  14. Cityplace

    Cityplace Senior member

    Messages:
    299
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    Feb 20, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto
    So I have finally joined the Vass train, I wanted something for the upcoming Canadian winter that I could still wear with a suit, but could put up with all manners of snow, slush and salt. I went with a Burgundy scotchgrain (btw - Vass scotchgrain is really something) with 270 goyser stich and dainite sole. I actually quite like the way Vass does their dainite heel - seems to be a more harmonious look as compared to the stacked with leather look.

    The U last seems to be a perfect fit for me, I am a 11UK in almost all narrow lasts - Carmina Simpson, Saint Crispins Classic, Enzo Bonafe 2102b and now 45 in the U last:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Special thanks to exceptional service from @jokb and GTA Shoe Shine for making this happen. I was nervous to see how things would turn out, but I am very happy with the result.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2016
    19 people like this.
  15. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Beautiful boots and a superb choice for their intended role. Congrats!
     
  16. saurabh

    saurabh Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 14, 2014
    Vass Oxford Wingtips Gold Museum Calf (permanent toe burnished)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    6 people like this.
  17. lol

    lol Member

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    Nov 23, 2010
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    
    Well, I just ordered a pair of London (3 laces) in U last. They are MTO in a beautiful patina of dark brown color. Mr. Vass went out of his way helping me to pick the right shoes for my feet. He also said he will make the shoes for me.
     
  18. MonteCarlo

    MonteCarlo Active Member

    Messages:
    32
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    Sep 18, 2014
    Some photos of my recent acquisition. Vass did a tremendous job on these.So sturdy and strong, yet incredibly sleek and elegant at the same time. Superb Craftsmanship.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    14 people like this.
  19. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Location:
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    LOVE those boots!
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

    Messages:
    238
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    May 21, 2014
    Great boots, what is the make up?
     

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