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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Distinguished Member

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    :crazy:

    Did you just get unlucky and received a bad pair or is this a known issue with Vass glued on rubber soles?
     


  2. Slickman

    Slickman Distinguished Member

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    Not a bad pair, theyre cordovan boots that have been worn HARD, ive heard from others that their vibram soles came off as well, but the soles on mine were so worn it was time for a new one
     


  3. NAMOR

    NAMOR Stylish Dinosaur

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    i think there's some confusion between vibram and dainite. Vibram (thin sheet of rubber) is simply glued on whereas the dainite I/O quoted is stitched
     


  4. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior Member

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    Can you hand welt dainite?
     


  5. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Distinguished Member

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    The welt and the welt stitch is exactly the same on leather soles shoes as Dainite or other rubber soles. I think you mean the sole stitch, and that is harder to do by hand on a Dainite sole. That is why Vass has had problems to find a good solution, and had to pull back the Dainite soles for a while this fall to get things right. They stitch just the toe part, and have now found a glue that is secure enough to keep the rest in place in a safe way for a long time, as I have understood it.
     


  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    A few observations...Quabaug (Vibram) makes a whole slew of different products (chemical composition) in a wide selection of thicknesses and configurations. Vibram is not just a thin overlay to be cemented on, nor is it just lug soles and similar products. One of the outsoles vibram makes is a 12 iron (approx. 1/4") "dress" sole.

    As far as outsole stitching is concerned, as long as there is sufficient thickness to hold the stitch...say, right around 1/8"--such as on the margins of a lug sole....outsole stitching is no more difficult, and IMO very much less difficult, on Vibram than on leather.

    Any rubber currently used for outsoling, Danite included, tends to be softer than leather--less resistant to the awl. So even if you're hand stitching, it is easy-peasy. And with the thicker products, such as the dress sole, cutting a channel...albeit a vertical channel...is no harder than cutting one in leather.

    Even thin Vibram products, such as "sole guard", that often rely on cement may be stitched. They have to be cemented to a foundation layer of leather anyway--as long as the stitching is not pulled down too tight, no problem. In fact, some of the more modern, curved needle outsole stitching machines will not only stitch the thin areas of a lug sole (which are configured to have both thin and thick sections), they will continue to feed and stitch right over the lugs themselves.

    And doing it by hand is just time consuming, that's all...not difficult.

    --
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013


  7. gyasih

    gyasih Distinguished Member

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    ^^Another great piece of information.
     


  8. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Distinguished Member

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    Thanks for that great clarification! Rezso just told me that they had problem with the sole stitch on the Dainite-soles (Vibrams version of the sole type called that), but don't know exactly what the problem was.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013


  9. pinkpanther

    pinkpanther Distinguished Member

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    RogerP - just to clarify, do you wear the same size in the F and U lasts?
     


  10. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    Pp - yes, I do.
     


  11. NAMOR

    NAMOR Stylish Dinosaur

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    DWFII, sorry if this has been mentioned, but have you published a book? or is their a central repository of your knowledge outside of SF? I've read enough of your posts to fill a book. Add illustrations and boom, 10 people would buy it

    :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013


  12. BeSpiffington

    BeSpiffington Distinguished Member

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    Count me as one who learns from and enjoys reading DWFII's posts. Would definitely buy any book he would write, especially about shoes.
     


  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Stylish Dinosaur

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    i think he has said he has written a couple of books. don't remember where i read it.
     


  14. Fred G. Unn

    Fred G. Unn Distinguished Member

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    Really? I'd buy that. Any more info?
     


  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Stylish Dinosaur

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