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Joshua Lee

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How concerned should one be about the size variances with vass shoes? Are these variances for the same last, but different shoe styles just a couple mm different or are we talking full to half size differences?
 

aportnoy

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How concerned should one be about the size variances with vass shoes? Are these variances for the same last, but different shoe styles just a couple mm different or are we talking full to half size differences?


OK. I've got about 30 pairs of Vass (boots and shoes) on the U and F lasts and have never encountered what I would describe as significant sizing differences. Now I take a different size on each of those lasts (41 on the F, 41.5 on the U) but all this talk of fit being off by a 1/2 size or more is mystifying.
 
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sstomcat

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How concerned should one be about the size variances with vass shoes? Are these variances for the same last, but different shoe styles just a couple mm different or are we talking full to half size differences?


I have about 15 pairs in 3636, Budapester, F, P2, mostly bluchers and few oxfords, all of them fit well and are comfortable at the end of the day. In my book there is nothing like a perfect fit, even in Bespoke.
 

sstomcat

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I think the problem people have here is one of standards. 'Good' for chogall and other aficionados (who buy bespoke lobb and EG regularly) is exceptional to others.

.


This is a suspicious statement, what makes you think so and generalize in this fashion?
I have experienced semi-bespoke if not full bespoke paying upto 4 times the Vass price from reputed makers and have been utterly disappointed both in terms of quality, fit and finish. VASS leather quality, sole, insole, lasting and tacking methods is second to none.

Please read the book if you haven't already.
 

gdl203

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Again, it's fine to fantasize Vass as an artisanal workshop but it is in the shoe manufacturing business. And they do make good shoes for the price.

Well, of course it is not a one-man show as some shoemaking artisans, but there's only 20 people working in the workshop covering the different aspects of the production. It is still quite small in absolute compared to shoe factories and it is definitely "artisanal" in its processes. So I guess it is artisanal times x (reproduction of artisanal processes) rather than a small factory. The line is fine.

For those who want to see how the shoes are made, we put together this video/slideshow with the help of Laszlo and Eva (skip the end if you don't want to see our commercial - I don't mean to offend or break the appreciation thread rules)

vimeo_logo.png
 
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gam29

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JL Northampton produces about 20,000 per year. JL Paris bespoke produces less than 2,000 per year and Saint Crispins produces about 1,200 per year. No idea about EG, but C&J produces ~100,000 and Church's is at ~700,000. Crude data but the magnitude is correct.

For some reason I don't think Vass produces less than JL Paris bespoke workshop if Vass is capable of taking Isetan's OEM orders.

Again, it's fine to fantasize Vass as an artisanal workshop but it is in the shoe manufacturing business. And they do make good shoes for the price.


To put this into perspective, Vass produces a total of 2,700 shoes per year.
 

RogerP

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Well, of course it is not a one-man show as some shoemaking artisans, but there's only 20 people working in the workshop covering the different aspects of the production. It is still quite small in absolute compared to shoe factories and it is definitely "artisanal" in its processes. So I guess it is artisanal times x (reproduction of artisanal processes) rather than a small factory. The line is fine.

For those who want to see how the shoes are made, we put together this video/slideshow with the help of Laszlo and Eva (skip the end if you don't want to see our commercial - I don't mean to offend or break the appreciation thread rules)

vimeo_logo.png

Excellent point, and cool video slideshow.

To put this into perspective, Vass produces a total of 2,700 shoes per year.

That's even fewer than I thought, and hardly an assembly-line shoe factory.
 
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Slewfoot

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How concerned should one be about the size variances with vass shoes? Are these variances for the same last, but different shoe styles just a couple mm different or are we talking full to half size differences?



OK. I've got about 30 pairs of Vass (boots and shoes) on the U and F lasts and have never encountered what I would describe as significant sizing differences. Now I take a different size on each of those lasts (41 on the F, 41.5 on the U) but all this talk of fit being off by a 1/2 size or more is mystifying.


Agreed. I have only noticed small size differences when things are compared with different materials. Suede fits differently than shell. If you expect them to fit and feel the same way they won't. If you want something soft and velvety do suede. If you want something structured do shell. If you want something in between do calf. One should take those kinds of things into account when choosing the order. It's a balance between comfort and aesthetics and at the end of the day, comfort wins in my book.

Andrew - great to see you back!
 

n-domino

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Well….I just received my suede chukkas on the F-last. I took the same size in these as I did in my theresianer high boots on the F-last. These, however, fit substantially bigger. I compared them to the high boots and there is a slight difference in length. Hopefully Mr. Kuti will let me know what he thinks but these are probably going back.
ffffuuuu.gif


Now I'll have to wait another 5 or so weeks. Oh well.
Ehh…false alarm. Tried these on with the thicker wool socks I normally wear with boots and the fit is much better. Looks like they will be keepers. Crisis averted.
smile.gif


I will try to post pics tomorrow.
 

chogall

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Ehh…false alarm. Tried these on with the thicker wool socks I normally wear with boots and the fit is much better. Looks like they will be keepers. Crisis averted.
smile.gif


I will try to post pics tomorrow.

I think its usually better to take half or one size up on country boots to have enough allowance for thick socks; wearing dress socks in country boots doesnt make much sense...
To put this into perspective, Vass produces a total of 2,700 shoes per year.

Thanks for the info.
 

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