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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Keep going; your talking me out of them!
     
  2. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    who even wears an ascot anymore anyways?!?!?!:tounge:
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2014
  3. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    This I find it simply beautiful.
     
  4. Webbo

    Webbo Senior member

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    Agreed, what last please? F?
     
  5. Webbo

    Webbo Senior member

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    Anyone any experience with the wide G fitting on the U last? Would it spoil the line of the shoe?
    If so then I will be going for the Budapest oxford on F last, anyone tried this? how does it look please?
     
  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    They are the F last
     
  7. diadem

    diadem Senior member

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    Quote:I think Jubei posted pics of his U last double monks in H width some pages back. The proportions looked fantastic for an H-width shoe and I honestly couldn't tell that it was a wide-fitting shoe just by looking at the pictures. I don't think you have anything to be worried about.
     
  8. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Wide fitting of U last. Size 41 G.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    One thing I've always advised anyone going for wide width is that the whole shoe gets bigger (including the heels.) If your heels fit fine w/ F width but only have issues with the toebox, what will end up happening is that your toe box may be fine, but you'll have loose heels. Obviously only you know your feet well, but this is something you may want to think about :) If it's the latter, then the last is just not made for your feet.

    However, to answer your question, from the pictures I've seen so far, they still look great on G width
     
  10. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As does the Budapest Oxford on the F last.
     
  11. Webbo

    Webbo Senior member

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    In a U last with a Vass standard width fitting (F) the problem for me is the top of the foot is too tight (instep or forefoot, not sure of the correct name). I'm wondering if increasing the fitting width (F→H) would relieve this or if theU last is not suitable and should move to an F last.
     
  12. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    U and F are not dissimilar over the instep. Firstly, it will loosen over time. Secondly, to answer your question, yes, it will increase the overall volume, though you will also find it a touch looser in the heel. And finally, you could always try a derby/open lacing in the same last and see how it works for you.
     
  13. ktown

    ktown Senior member

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    I just received a pair of Old English on the U last from Ascot. I think these might be a little big for me - lacing is practically closed up and tiny tiny bit of heel slip. What do you guys do in this situation? I'm tempted to just keep them.

    Also, if you look at the heel counter (I think that's the term), I just have a stitch across the leather. In the pics I've seen, there is usually an extra layer of leather for the heel. What's the deal with that?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    How does the toe box feel? Is it tight? If not, try to get a full length insole. Pedag has some really nice & comfortable ones
    If the toe box feels tight, try to get half insole. Pedag also sells some really nice ones.

    It will get looser after break-in period, so just judging by the picture you would need insoles.

    This is indeed a very common problem I've seen w/ people who bought U-lasts (as instep room is quite high, but toe box room is quite tight.)

    For me, the U-last is like godsend because I have high instep, and this is one of the few RTW lasts that I have zero problem with (in terms of fit) thus far.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2014
  15. ktown

    ktown Senior member

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    The toe box isn't that tight - I have some wiggle room for my toes. The pinky is up against the side of the shoe but it's not uncomfortable. Upon further thought I may return for 0.5 size down.

    I'm normally 7UK and I took a 41. There was contradicting information in this thread and I was debating taking a 40.5.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2014
  16. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Senior member

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    If your pinky is already up against the side, sizing down will be too tight. Size 7 UK is indeed 41 for Vass so that's not wrong. It just means that the last was not designed for your feet.

    All is not lost - try the insoles I mentioned amd see what happens :)
     
  17. ktown

    ktown Senior member

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    I only tried my shoes on briefly last night. When I get home, I will try to confirm fit, but I have a feeling I will return and get 40.5. The tiny bit of heel slip worries me. Back earlier in this thread (Sep 2013) Torsion had the exact same issue as me and ended up taking 1/2 size down. In April 2014 of this thread rikod made a post saying with 90% confidence that unless you have wide or fat feet, you should take 40.5 in F last if you normally wear 7UK. And since most people wear the same F and U last size, I would take a 40.5 using his scale.

    Also, I've never tried a tongue pad or insole on shoes before so that could be a possibility but I'd rather have a shoe that just fits as is without these modifications.
     
  18. ktown

    ktown Senior member

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    On a separate note, the leather feels so much different from my other calf shoes from Meermin, AE, & Carmina. I've read that it's called "aniline leather"? What are the pros and cons of this type of leather?
     
  19. Webbo

    Webbo Senior member

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    It might seem like a schoolboy question but what are the 2 categories stated on the Vass price list, Ready to wear and custom made? I have seen people using the acronyms RTW and MTO but is made to order the same as custom made as stated on the price list? For example if you order shoes from a standard last and with a standard leather but they do not have any in stock they will make you them and send in 4-6 weeks perhaps. Now are these priced as RTW or custom made? Actually I would say in this case these are a third category ,MTO, for which Vass actually does not state a price. What are people's experiences?
     
  20. rc121

    rc121 Senior member

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    There are actually three levels from my understanding. First is RTW, which means you can order a standard model in a standard leather on any last and any size/width. MTO means a model with modifications made to it, i.e no heel counter or no medallion. They also do semi bespoke but that mainly involves modification to one of their existing lasts for fit purposes, not sure whether it gives you any other options or higher end finishing.
     

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