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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. gyasih

    gyasih Distinguished Member

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    Did we ever determine which last has a lower instep, but a classic look for something like Old English (Chelsea)?
     


  2. barky

    barky Senior Member

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  3. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

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    I have two pair on the New Peter and I think it would make a good boot last. It has reasonable room in the toe without being too high and it is also nicely elongated without going too far. I'd say the fit is generally more relaxed. Caveat is that I have no experience with either Vass F or U lasts or the C&J or Trickers lasts you mention. So I can't compare.
    Give me maybe four weeks and I'll have some photos. I have an R last Budapester in work right now.
     


  4. barky

    barky Senior Member

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    Great! That's what I was thinking of, Vass' version of Sandringham. What's your makeup?
     


  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior Member

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    I presume the R last named after Roberto Uglo,

    it's toe looks flattened and shape reminds me the great white shark

     


  6. chogall

    chogall Distinguished Member

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    R is not part of the collaboration with Ugolini.
     


  7. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

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    An Oxford in antique cognac scotch grain with double sole. I'm excited about it!


    Correct. R is part of their standard line. They show it used in particular for oxfords, but it seems you can get it with open lacing as well. I've seen the R referred as Vass's British style design.
     


  8. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Distinguished Member

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    Thanks for that feedback. That's exactly what I'm looking at. I also saw that Tom has a wholecut on the P2 which looks really nice. It looks sleeker than Alden's Barrie which makes the P2 seem ideal for me.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013


  9. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

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    I think that the P2 is a little sleeker than the Barrie, perhaps. But I also think that the perception of the Barrie is based in large part on the fact that it almost always appears with a reverse welt. That contributes a great deal to it's apparent solidity IMO.

    Hope P2 works out for you.
     


  10. JayJay

    JayJay Stylish Dinosaur

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    Vass lasted shoe trees are nice and all, but they trigger a security check when they go through the screener. My bag was searched at airports in Budapest, Frankfurt, and just now upon entry to the US. They'll stay home from now on. :(
     


  11. barky

    barky Senior Member

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    Sweet! No goyser? Look forward to seeing it. Antic cognac shell would be nice too, been salivating over the crup Sandringham.
     


  12. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

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    No Goyser. Flat welt on these. I haven't tried Goyser yet, nor have I gone with a full shell shoe from Vass. Perhaps next year...
     


  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Stylish Dinosaur

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    Are goyser and reverse welt the same thing?
     


  14. Medwed

    Medwed Distinguished Member

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    Vass is scaling up the production or lost old craftsman may be both, the heels on most of their shoes are now disproportionately gigantic.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Just picked up on this...it strikes me that there's something of the myopic about such a perspective. It assumes that the shoemaker is a mindless drudge with no part, indeed no legitimate interest or investment, in the process of addressing the customer's every whim. And while that's fine at a certain level, unfortunately it is the guiding principle of manufacturing in general.

    But there's something different going on with bespoke and those concerns that aspire to the same cachet as bespoke.

    Tight stitches are a mark of craftsmanship...attention to detail and even excellence. Why? Because it not only looks neater and more finessed than long stitches but takes more time and more skill. Inasmuch as it is an indication that the maker cares about such things and takes pride...personal pride...in his work, it is also a promise that the rest of the shoe will exemplify that ethic, that pride, and that aesthetic...in places that you cannot see.

    Yes, there is a diminishing return as stitch length is shortened but it's worth noting that in the heyday of English shoemaking, 18 spi was not considered too small and 64 spi (even on outsoles) was the gold standard for exhibition work. Probably the main reason that such fine work has passed out of vogue...aside from the appeal to the lowest common denominator of manufacturing...is that leather quality has declined to the point that no known leather will support much more than 30spi nevermind 50 or 64.

    There is also a diminishing return of functionality as stitch length gets longer, nevermind that broad, expansive gestures are always considered a bit crude.

    And yes, anyone who is really looking...and not just dismissively waving away any and all standards of absolute excellence...can immediately see the difference between 7.5 and 10 spi. I can see the difference between 10 and 11.

    But again, I take pride in my work.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013


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