The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Are we still discussing the difference between Vass vs west end stitching? If so, G&G bespoke stitching looks tighter to me than Vass. I can't tell you if it is because of the different technique, stitches per inch or combination thereof.
     


  2. Akeem

    Akeem Senior member

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    I wear 40.5 in the f last and i am a uk 7 in almost every english brand. If you are a 6.5, then 40 may possibly be a better fit. But Ive had 2 pairs of vass that were both 40.5 f last and one pair was a bit larger than the other. Sometimes the sizing is not always exact
     


  3. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Torsion - I agree that it is not ideal for the laces to be fully closed at first wearing - but it is not far from ideal, IMO (maybe a 1/4" separation at the top).

    I think it a bit of an oversimplification to say you need to go a half size down because of the closed lacing alone - for example - you may need every bit of the length that this size gives you and half a size down could compromise that.

    When it comes to less than perfect fit (and a shoe can fit less than perfectly but still be comfortable and look good), a bit large is much better than a bit small. If, when the shoes break in and stretch a bit, you find a bit too much room over the instep, then an insole or a tongue pad may provide an entirely adequate solution.

    But much depends on how they fit now - which you know better than any of us. Is there already space over your instep, or do the laces just close? Is there a lot of room in the forefoot? Noticeable extra length? Heel slip? If yes, then a half size down may be the better bet. If no, then I wouldn't size down.

    For reference, here is how my tri-cognac oxfords fit when new (and they are now pretty much completely closed):


    [​IMG]
    Smart to get a wide range of input from others - but you are in by far the best position to make the call.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013


  4. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    We were never discussing the execution of the stitching by one brand as compared with another. We were discussing whether there is either an aesthetic or a functional benefit to 10 stitches per inch versus 7.5 stitches per inch, regardless of who made what shoe. Is the quality improved in some articulable way? Does an extra 2.5 stitches per inch always look better? Would 12 or 15 stitches per inch necessarily look better than 10? I'm just not hearing a supportable affirmative response to any of those questions.

    Out of curiosity - what is the price of G&G Bespoke? I only have one pair of G&G RTW - and they are already significantly more costly than most of Vass shoes. I assume that gap would widen with bespoke, but as I have never gone that route, I don't know. I certainly would not put the overall finish of G&G RTW ahead of Vass (I have looked over a broad cross-section of G&G offerings in person at a local retailer) . Though I am very fond of my single pair of G&G.
     


  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    You can assume it to be around to £3,000
     


  6. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Hmmm - 1 pair of G&G bespoke vs. a whole shoe wardrobe (7 or 8 pair) of Vass? G&G better damned well have nicer stitching.
    [​IMG]
     


  7. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    This information is completely accurate IMO. The vamp may sit higher on your foot but the length may be exact and it might mean that the last is not good for your foot and there must be a better last choice for your foot. IMO if a shoe is brand new and laces are completely closed then when the shoe stretches and breaks in just slightly then they will be too big. YMMV but thats my .02
     


  8. velomane

    velomane Senior member

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    And with all this being said, is there a Vass last that is better suited for those of us with low insteps?
     


  9. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    unfortunately I have never handled a pair of Vass. I would love to in the future but I am just oogling all the beautiful shoes in this thread. I know this would not be most peoples first but I love that light shell 2 eyelet split toe boot. I might have to pull the trigger on that in the future
     


  10. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The last pair of G&G bespoke shoes I got 1-2 years ago was about 2500 GBP. I am working on a boot commission currently. But bespoke is a completely different animal than RTW. They have to price in the cost of adjustments and the occasional complete remake. I sent back 3 of 4 pairs of shoes for some sort of adjustment (heel, toe height, width). Each leather and design combo wears on the foot a little differently, even on the same last. What I gain from bespoke is not just the shoes, but also the experience, learning and thinking that goes into each commission. I don't have many pairs of shoes but I think deeply about each pair I add.
     


  12. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    VASS Budapest Shoes Budapest Last "Norweger Boots" Oxblood in calf. The boot version of this shoe:


    [​IMG]
     


  13. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Agree with your analysis below - I have come across JL and EG shoes which are machine welted, in the same size and width, and there always a degree of difference. And because Vass shoes are hand made - there will always be a higher % the same size will not always be the exact length and width by the nearest mm.
    Quote:
     


  14. Torsion

    Torsion Senior member

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    Damn, just when I thought I had nailed my size...:facepalm:

    I'm going to list these on B/S and maybe the bay probably tonight.

    Anyone interested in brand new unworn (just tried on inside for size) OE II - F Last , 6125 dark cognac, metal toe plates, double to single sole, 40.5 EUR - please PM me.

    I just want my cost back on these so I can get another half size down....gutted
     


  15. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    But if they fit you well on all other aspects except the instep, then I would not change size. The sz40 will then be too small instead, better to attach a tongue pad, have a cobbler insert a professional leather tongue pad, or insert small insole which goes from the middle of the shoe and back.
     


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