The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    Leather sole would do just fine. It's not a shoe to take out in bad weather any how suede and all.

    And the common misconception that suede is more delicate than calf has once again revealed its ugly head...
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    And the common misconception that suede is more delicate than calf has once again revealed its ugly head...
    The only thing is that there is some truth in it. The most prevalent iteration of suede is a calfskin or cowhide that is too "irregular" on the grain surface to command the prices that grain calf commands. So the leather is processed and used flesh-side out. It's an attractive look...at least initially...albeit perhaps not really suitable for dressy occasions. But the real problem stems from the fact that the grainside on any piece of leather is, like the skin when on the animal, at least marginally waterproof and soil resistant. This is a simple fact deriving from the essential characteristic of the corium--which is both dense and smooth. The fleshside, on the other hand, is looser fibered and very water and dirt absorbent. So....suede is highly vulnerable to dirt and water. Yes, you can treat with silicone or fluorine based repellents but the fibrous and spongy nature of suede tends to encourage soil to lodge and water to be retained, regardless. Additionally, cleaning suede not only involves removing the soil but also some of the protecting agents. More importantly, the fibrous mat is further roughed up and loosened by almost all effective cleaning regimes--a process that also, often, removes a certain amount of substance. Check your suede brush...those "crumbs" are fibers that have been torn from the underlying substrate. Some folks even sand shiney spots. Either way the leather gets thinner as a result even if only minimally. In the end, all of this contributes to the degradation of suede at a faster rate than if the same skin had been used grain-side out. And almost as importantly, it mandates a higher degree of attention and maintenance than most are willing to bring to the game.
     
  3. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    The only thing is that there is some truth in it.

    The most prevalent iteration of suede is a calfskin or cowhide that is too "irregular" on the grain surface to command the prices that grain calf commands. So the leather is processed and used flesh-side out.

    It's an attractive look...at least initially...albeit perhaps not really suitable for dressy occasions.

    But the real problem stems from the fact that the grainside on any piece of leather is, like the skin when on the animal, at least marginally waterproof and soil resistant. This is a simple fact deriving from the essential characteristic of the corium--which is both dense and smooth.

    The fleshside, on the other hand, is looser fibered and very water and dirt absorbent. So....suede is highly vulnerable to dirt and water.

    Yes, you can treat with silicone or fluorine based repellents but the fibrous and spongy nature of suede tends to encourage soil to lodge and water to be retained, regardless.

    Additionally, cleaning suede not only involves removing the soil but also some of the protecting agents. More importantly, the fibrous mat is further roughed up and loosened by almost all effective cleaning regimes.

    In the end, all of this contributes to the degradation of suede at a faster rate than if the same skin had been used grain-side out.

    And almost as importantly, it mandates a higher degree of attention and maintenance than most are willing to bring to the game.


    That's quite interesting as my experience is nothing but positive about wearing suede in any sort of foul weather. I wear them come blizzard come what-have-you, where a good brushing will get them back in great condition in no time. Calf on the other hand, needs more time to rest once they get "wet" and add to that a thorough shoe shine exertion to be back at par. Hence, my go to pair of shoes are almost always of suede lest the occasion call for calf.
     
  4. 888style

    888style Senior member

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    Maybe a stupid question, but is that stitching there because of the Vibram sole, or is it just decorative?
     
  5. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Maybe a stupid question, but is that stitching there because of the Vibram sole,
    No.
    leather sole have it to.
    or is it just decorative?
    Fully functioning stitchs.
     
  6. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Yes, the stitchs are functioning but not "totally". They just hold the up the insole, midsole and uppers, but not the Vibram sole. They are totally functioning on dainite sole or other style vibram sole.
     
  7. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    New deliveries today... [​IMG]

    1) Italian oxford, whiskey shell cordovan on F last
    2) Old English with medallion, dark brown suede on F last

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    New deliveries today... [​IMG]

    1) Italian oxford, whiskey shell cordovan on F last
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  9. benjamin831

    benjamin831 Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Holy hot hell! [​IMG]
     
  10. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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  11. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Holy hot hell! [​IMG]

    Thanks, gents. This is my first pair of shells, am looking forward to venturing out in the wild later this week.
     
  12. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Vass FTW - these are gorgeous buys.
     
  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Thanks, gents. This is my first pair of shells, am looking forward to venturing out in the wild later this week.

    do poast photogs after you've actually worn them![​IMG]
     
  14. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    These are very nice.
     
  15. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    do poast photogs after you've actually worn them![​IMG]

    you mean people wear there new shoes??[​IMG]
     

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