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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    These pics from the Vass workshop should help :


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    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
    4 people like this.
  2. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the photo. I was wrong in my assumption. The stitching looks very simile to the machine stitched SC and nothing like JL P or JL SJ thus my conjecture.
     
  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    You're welcome. It wasn't my intention to prove anyone wrong or right - just wanted to share information and the behind-the-scenes peek :)
     
    2 people like this.
  4. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the peek - and good info. Not many premium manufacturers can match the degree of hand craftsmanship that you get with Vass.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for sharing the photos. You won't get this craftsmanship from the likes of lobb and greens.

    I noticed some of Edward green stitching from my summer purchase not up to scratch
     
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
    3 people like this.
  7. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    Quality > Nearly all RTW, and not far removed from good London bespoke.
    Price = Alden.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  8. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Well-Known Member

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    I might argue they are a bit more expensive than Alden (I paid ~$650 for my wholecuts), but no argument on the quality.
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much for the information.
     
  10. mr monty

    mr monty Well-Known Member

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  11. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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  12. samadhi27

    samadhi27 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like a Norweger split-toe chukka in a dark oxblood calf. Maybe P2 last?
     
  13. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    I'd say Budapester-last. Looks crazy!
     
  14. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for sharing the pics!
     
  15. cbfn

    cbfn Well-Known Member

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    Saying «No offense» doesn't make your statement any less offensive, just more douchey.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    English bespoke shoemakers (and the French who are in many respects more English than the English) use totally different tools to stitch the sole to the welt as their German, Austro-Hungarian, East European colleagues. English makers use a fudge wheel and a square awl, while their continental brethren use a (two-pronged) stitch marker and the same curved, round awl used for inseaming. The optical impact of the two methods is totally different.

    In addition continental shoemakers do not go in for the neat and close stitches the English school utilizes. (There is an old shoemaker's saying: "Small stitches make quality work, large stitches buy you bread."). Today. in an English shoe 10 stitches per inch (4 per cm) is considered good (West-End) standard. I don't think, you will find a continental shoe that uses smaller stitches than 1/2 Paris Point (= 3 stitches per cm or 7.5 per inch), with an increase in the stitch length to do the inside waist).

    But I have seen photographs here from eastern European shoes, where it looks in the picture that they have increased the stitch length to something like 5 mm (5/inch) and, as I have never seen any complaints about that, the shoemakers obviously got away with it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  17. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the information, Bengal. is more or less better?
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2013
  18. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    You'll find the answer here:

     
  19. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    Surely there must be some point at which there is a diminishing return on additional stitches per inch. Is a shoe with 7.5/inch at some greater material risk than one with 10/inch? Would a shoe with 20/inch be twice as good as one with 10/inch in any practical respect?

    Or is something more like depth ratings with watches - where a dive watch with a rating of 600m is regarded as not nearly as good as one with a depth rating of 1200m - even though no human being could survive at either depth?

    Bragging points don't impress me much, absent practical benefit.
     
  20. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    I don't think more stitches makes it superior but the right no. of stitches per inch does make it matter. What I would think to be negative of more stitches per inch, is more holes in the welt, and with it more the chances of water debris going in with each flex and movement. It though looks nicer to the eye to some.
     

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