Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.
You da man NAMOR. Thanks.
And where to buy and see just a figure price on the shoes?
MTO calf is 420€ a pair
Matching trees are 30€.
Thanks. And same price on everything like suede shoes?
Yes, and contrary to some stories on here I can say that Vass are great to work with and I have not had any trouble ordering. I sent an email got a reply within 24h and was called up to confirm the last details and within 48h of my initial email the shoe was in production.
With a price at 420€ they might also be the best value for money I have ever seen.
Interesting. Maybe it's the size too, but I have a technical question. Is "Son of Saphir" out there somewhere in the ether? I think he might be the man to help.
I say that because some time ago, he made a comment about the 2>1 "haf" sole arrangement. SoS pointed out that Vass have a certain heel height that doesn't change. It makes sense for either the single or double sole, because it means both sole and heel are raise by the same amount and the shoe is balanced whether single or double: when you add a full extra sole, it automatically adds a layer to the heel too as it runs the length of the shoe
But SoS went on to say that with the "haf" sole, Vass make a perennial error: they put on the double sole and skive it away into the waist. Fine; I love the way that looks and I'd order it. But then, because it doesn't continue all the way into the heel, the heel is now as if it were a single sole, while the sole on the forefoot is double. SoS said they need to add one more sole-thickness layer to the heel when they make a "haf" sole. He also claimed to have corrected this for some customers of his (whoever "he" is; I've no idea).
Son of Saphir, if you're out there, come back and explain better than this if you can. And also, tell me, is this an example of exactly what you said?
It looks to me from the picture that the shoe is too low in the heel - the sole is pointing upwards not just because of the toe, but right from the waist, because the balance of the sole no longer reflects the geometry of the last.
Someone please set me straight if I've got this wrong...won't be the first time or the last*, but I'm fixated on this stuff!
(*no pun intended)
For suede shoes it's the same price. Rubber/metal tips or rubber soles are 20-25€.
Also, I got an email from Vass telling me they raised their price for cordovan with €100 per pair (so that will be about €650 per pair now).
Sorry for off-topic, I just want to say that when I discussed my new MTO with Rezso, based on that old comment of SoS I asked him to make a haf sole with a double-sole heel, means higher than standard. Rezso told me that's not a problem and he can do it. Actually this confirmes that haf sole comes with single-sole heel by default.
PS finally I didn't place the order that time
Advice wanted from you Vass experienced guys. Which has the higher instep, F or U last?
From what I understand, neither. Both have lower than average insteps from what Reszo tells me.
I've heard also they are both the same. On a side note, from my subjective experience with other brands (compared to C&J 6E, EG 6.5E, & AS 6F) the Vass F (40) is much higher.
Category of its own
Agree Vass is one of the best values (especially MTO). Wish they fit me better (best last fit is with another company) so I would not have to spend more on another brand.
This is odd. After all the raving articles on the virtues of vegetable-tannage, chrome would seem like the choice of cheaper makers. What's the point of selecting oak-tanned soles and welts when the uppers are chromed up?
Because the desired characteristics of the different parts of the shoe are fundamentally different. The benefits of a high-quality veg tan are things like: pliability while wet yet abrasion resistant when dry; strength to allow hand-welting/stitching to be extremely tight; and ability to be burnished and infused with waxes to provide water resistance while wet. For the uppers, these characteristics are not so important, whereas features of chrome-tanned leather -- higher water resistance and flexibility -- are more desirable for uppers. Of course, the general prevalence of chrome-tanning may also be a key reason that this type of leather has become common for uppers.
Gentlemen, I have a question: Is is just on my pair of shoes, or is that the leather on my Vass shoes are dry? They seem to be 'cracking' and there are 'hairline cracks' on them.
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