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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Notch

    Notch Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Since they do everything by hand I believe it is near impossible to do a full stitch. They do not have a machine that can welt the rubber sole. Handmade craftsmanship at its best :)
     
  2. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    I don't think I understand, is it glued on, or how is the construction?
     
  3. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    Thank you.

    Personally, I really like how the Budapest last works for this model.

    There's no obvious evidence of stitching of the outsole to the think leather midsole on the shoes. There's what I'd call crimping, which leads me to think that the rubber may have been glued on. Not sure if this is consistent with what Notch is saying.

    Also interesting is that the entire heel stack is rubber.

    I'm looking forward to seeing how these wear.
     
  4. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Interesting, thank you. I wonder if anyone can shed some light on the construction? Oh, and congrats on the shoes. The scotch grain looks great.
     
  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This picture of the Vibram sole taken from Ascot Shoes - looks similar in construction to the Dainite.
    But with the Dainite, I see some stitches at the tip of the toe.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The shoes (bar the 2" around the toe) are stitched to the mid-sole, (presumably leather).. Then the 'Dainite' rubber sole is glued into place. Thereafter the stitching around the toe gets completed, going through all the layers (welt, mid-sole, Dainite outer sole.)
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    So this method is different from other Dainite soled shoes in which the stitches are all around the outer sole? (kind of obvious but wanted to confirm anyway), wonder why Vass prefer this way.
     
  8. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply bengal-stripe. Informative as always.
     
  9. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I guess like everything in life, we all have our methods; processes and procedures...and this is influenced by material; skillset;
    ease of construction; cost; resources; aesthetics ...etc...Guess only Mr Vass can answer this.
     
  10. Notch

    Notch Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I have read on the forum that they used to have some problems with Vibram soles that came loose from the sole, at the tip.

    Now with there Dainite soles, I think they have decided to glue the sole, and stitch only the toe part because that is the weakest part.

    I got the chance to visit their workshop a few months ago, and I noticed that everything is 100% hand made. The only machinery they had was for pressing their logo on the insoles. Imagine to 270* stitch on a thick rubber Dainite sole.. that is near impossible to do by hand, and that is why I think they chose to only stitch the toe part.

    Nevertheless, they look very sleek and elegant, and my father loves th dainite soles on his double monks!
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Bengal can u shed any lite on who AS might be producing these Vass lookalikes for?

    the trees appear to be by Kiss; the Norweger on the 2nd bottom left is all but identical to the Vass classic

    [​IMG]
     
  12. kashmir

    kashmir Senior member

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  13. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I know Crockett & Jones produce the Alt Wein shoes for several Austrian firms in Vienna.

    I guess AS you mean Alfred Sargent - is putting a foot into this market.
     
  14. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Gent's.

    I need a bit of advise, or perhaps rather a bit of plain opinons.

    I am to pull the trigger on my next Vass order this week, and is a bit indecisive...

    The plan is a shoe that is sharp enough and dark enough to fill in as an evening shoe when I don't feel like using my black captoes. So color is decided to be oxblood.

    Model will be either a wholecut with a floating medallion, or a sharp Adelaide, similar to the one's on the pictures (just mentally add the Adelaide medallion to the wholecut :).)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    What do you guys say?

    Next question is last. On what last does a shoe like this look the best; on the sharper U or the rounder F? My guts say U, having all sharp G&G shoes in mind, but...
    I have shoes on the F-last since before and like them. I have no shoes on the U-last.

    Help to push me!
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2013
  15. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    ^ I would say the wholecuts exude pure class and simplicity. The adelaides, a bit more dandyish. U Last looks great on the whole cuts.
     
  16. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    I would say the wholecuts on the U-last.
     
  17. DJJD

    DJJD Active Member

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    FrankCowperwood, cheers for yous slippers !!

    I was wondering how a norwegian slipper looks like, I have the answer now !
     
  18. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Thanx for input. Even skipping the medallion?
     
  19. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    I actually about to order a wholecut in oxblood on the U last my self. A bit torn about having a medallion or not. Guess it will depend on what you want to use it for, If you are going to be using it as evening shoe then maybe skip it but it's personal preference. I am still undecided about my order.

    I have seen wholecuts in the K-last as well and that looked very sharp as well, haha this is getting difficult..

    A bit off topic but do you know a good cobbler in sthlm? someone that could do a proper resoling, install toe taps etc..
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2013
  20. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Here it is in the k-last without the medallion, looks very nice and clean. Almost think the k-last might be better then the U for a wholecut.
     

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