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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. retozimmermann

    retozimmermann Senior member

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    Jul 9, 2009
    Location:
    Seoul
    

    Korea is actually very good compared to the EU. Only 10% VAT and since there is a free trade agreement with the EU, the import duties on shoes have been done away with. Japan, on the other hand, is quite a different matter. That's why we have a number of Japanese customers. Their import duties and retails prices are just through the roof. On a recent trip to Japan I saw that sometimes their retail prices for the same models of shoes are 200% of ours.

    As far as Paying VAT is stupid is concerned, I'd say this: Either there should be taxation on the income, or there should be taxation on spending. Doing both is just greedy (which governments are, see Europe going down in flames if they don't wake up).
     
  2. retozimmermann

    retozimmermann Senior member

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    Seoul
    Thought I'd post one of my personal favourites, the Double Monk. We've seen it done quite a lot on the U last, which to me really only looks good in black. The gold standard for this is still the F last. The Bordeaux Oxford is a classic almost, so I thought a bit of change might be nice. Navy blue. More than happy how that has turned out.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Jun 1, 2012
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    London
    Got a nice email from vass today, got two packages in transit. Should arrive on monday!
     
  4. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Those double monks look terrific, but I disagree that the F last is universally superior in this application. It depends on one's personal preference, but U and K give that design a sleeker look than the more round-toed F.
     
  5. retozimmermann

    retozimmermann Senior member

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    Location:
    Seoul
    

    I'm a fan of the U last myself, it's just that for me it only looked great with the Double Monk in black, but of course this is all a question of preference. And probably my perception is slightly skewed because most U last double monks which I have seen have been Bordeaux. While it is a fabulous colour for this shoe, I've often found it "a bit too much" on the sleek U last. Monks are already special, then the red colour is special, and then the pointy last. It often felt a bit like overdoing it in this combination. Seems I feel less like this as soon as the colours darken :happy:

    Here's another view on a few different incarnations. F last is on the left, all else is U.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    Nov 13, 2012
    

    +1 I agree totally. The U last and, to a lesser extent, the K last, are too angular and sharp for an angular model (with the squarish flap) like the double monk. It looks like an ugly gadget.

    The F last looks a lot more organic. It balances visually with the double monk's flaps.
     
  7. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Well, you are all more than entitled to your views, but I wouldn't swap the K-last in my oxblood double monks for the F-last. Ugly gadget? Not to my eyes. I don't own a pair of shoes that has drawn more compliments than these.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I do like my F-last punch caps and find that last well suited to what is a very conservative shoe.

    [​IMG]


    Double monks aren't a conservative design, and a safe, comparatively round-toed last doesn't suit them as well for my liking.

    Left to right, K, F, U

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  8. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Ugly a harsh word used in the context of describing well crafted shoes from Vass...
    Personally I am a big fan of the Dmitri Gomez inspired design of Crockett's 348 last. I have not found any last
    from other British players that looks as sleek and fit comfortably on my feet....Until Vass K last came out,
    I was hooked.

    I do agree the old classic double monks from Vass suits the F last more, using the copper/bronze buckles.
    But Vass have come out with a sharper cutting double monk, using silver buckles which in my opinion suit the K last more.
     
  9. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    Pardon my choice of words.
     
  10. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    Gentlemen, I have a very odd problem. It takes a hell lot of strength to take my shoe trees out of my Vass. The spring seems to be very stiff.

    Someone please tell me I am not alone.

    P.S. advice like 'go beef up' is not helpful.
     
  11. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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    Jan 1, 2012
    DYEL?

    I find the same thing, I wouldn't worry about it. If you find you can't deal with it, replace the spring with a softer one.
     
  12. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    How am I to do that? I don't mind being a carpenter for a day, as long as I'm sure I won't wreck the trees.
     
  13. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  14. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  15. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    [​IMG] Stiff trees will be my choice.
     
  16. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    Location:
    EUR
    They can be a bit tough to get out at times, but I don't think the problem is that the spring is too stiff. They seem to get set in place — bike people call this "stiction". I just press on the heel to free them up if they're jammed. You could try oiling the shaft, as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  17. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  18. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Feb 25, 2013
    One of my pet hates with the Vass trees - bloody painful to take out especialy on my boots...
    Must admit they are finely carfted piece of art, esp the lasted U shape tree. ...I find the curves on them very sexxxy to stare at.
     
  19. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Nov 7, 2010
    

    What size are you?, If you are in the middle of full sizes you could request the smaller size tree. I have the opposite problem, I'm in the middle of sizes (about 40.5) and they send some of my trees size 40 and they are a bit loose (except for the 3 piece trees), In some shoes I have to put an insole to be able to fit the tress well. I request trees 41 and they a are tight but fine.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  20. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Aug 24, 2011
    

    I have pairs in both 44,5 and 44 G-width, which both have trees in 44 that seems too small and don't fill out the shoes properly, main problem would be that the trees are too low at the vamp area. When I got a new pair of trees in size 45 from Rezso, the fit was better in both pairs, but they were almost impossible to get out of the shoes. Had to like fight for ten minutes on each shoe, terrible. So now I'm back with the size 44 trees, they are difficult enough to get out.

    I think that's what causing the problems when trying to pull out the trees is that the front part of the heel area meet the back of the front part of the trees, preventing the tree to bend and be pushes together enough to be easily pulled out, if you understand what I mean. Would actually be quite easy to solve I think, if they just shaped the inner parts where the spring sits differently, so that the tree could be bent a bit more. Just my two cents.
     

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