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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Interesting. Maybe it's the size too, but I have a technical question. Is "Son of Saphir" out there somewhere in the ether? I think he might be the man to help.

    I say that because some time ago, he made a comment about the 2>1 "haf" sole arrangement. SoS pointed out that Vass have a certain heel height that doesn't change. It makes sense for either the single or double sole, because it means both sole and heel are raise by the same amount and the shoe is balanced whether single or double: when you add a full extra sole, it automatically adds a layer to the heel too as it runs the length of the shoe

    But SoS went on to say that with the "haf" sole, Vass make a perennial error: they put on the double sole and skive it away into the waist. Fine; I love the way that looks and I'd order it. But then, because it doesn't continue all the way into the heel, the heel is now as if it were a single sole, while the sole on the forefoot is double. SoS said they need to add one more sole-thickness layer to the heel when they make a "haf" sole. He also claimed to have corrected this for some customers of his (whoever "he" is; I've no idea).

    Son of Saphir, if you're out there, come back and explain better than this if you can. And also, tell me, is this an example of exactly what you said?

    It looks to me from the picture that the shoe is too low in the heel - the sole is pointing upwards not just because of the toe, but right from the waist, because the balance of the sole no longer reflects the geometry of the last.

    Someone please set me straight if I've got this wrong...won't be the first time or the last*, but I'm fixated on this stuff!



    (*no pun intended)
     
  2. Notch

    Notch Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    For suede shoes it's the same price. Rubber/metal tips or rubber soles are 20-25€.

    Also, I got an email from Vass telling me they raised their price for cordovan with €100 per pair (so that will be about €650 per pair now).
     
  3. sdolina

    sdolina Senior member

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    Sorry for off-topic, I just want to say that when I discussed my new MTO with Rezso, based on that old comment of SoS I asked him to make a haf sole with a double-sole heel, means higher than standard. Rezso told me that's not a problem and he can do it. Actually this confirmes that haf sole comes with single-sole heel by default.

    PS finally I didn't place the order that time :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Hi guys,

    Advice wanted from you Vass experienced guys. Which has the higher instep, F or U last?
     
  5. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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    From what I understand, neither. Both have lower than average insteps from what Reszo tells me.
     
  6. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    I've heard also they are both the same. On a side note, from my subjective experience with other brands (compared to C&J 6E, EG 6.5E, & AS 6F) the Vass F (40) is much higher.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013
  7. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Category of its own :)

    Agree Vass is one of the best values (especially MTO). Wish they fit me better (best last fit is with another company) so I would not have to spend more on another brand.
     
  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    This is odd. After all the raving articles on the virtues of vegetable-tannage, chrome would seem like the choice of cheaper makers. What's the point of selecting oak-tanned soles and welts when the uppers are chromed up?
     
  9. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Jul 27, 2003
    

    Because the desired characteristics of the different parts of the shoe are fundamentally different. The benefits of a high-quality veg tan are things like: pliability while wet yet abrasion resistant when dry; strength to allow hand-welting/stitching to be extremely tight; and ability to be burnished and infused with waxes to provide water resistance while wet. For the uppers, these characteristics are not so important, whereas features of chrome-tanned leather -- higher water resistance and flexibility -- are more desirable for uppers. Of course, the general prevalence of chrome-tanning may also be a key reason that this type of leather has become common for uppers.
     
  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Gentlemen, I have a question: Is is just on my pair of shoes, or is that the leather on my Vass shoes are dry? They seem to be 'cracking' and there are 'hairline cracks' on them.
     
  11. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Thanx. I do think they look like high instep shoes from the pictures I've seen here. If they have similar insteps, that's one parameter less to consider.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013
  12. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Regarding instep height, I went to a store and tried on shoes of lasts 236, 337 and 348 of C&J in sizes UK6 and UK6.5.
    On all of the shoes the lacing was either fully closed or only of a very slight V-shape.
    As you know I received a size 41.5 pair of Vass on the F last which was both too long and wide for my feet but the lacing was not fully closed even though the shoe was too big overall.
    Thus I'd say at least on my feet the instep of the F last does not appear to be very high compared to other popular lasts.
     
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Both the F and U have low insteps, but the F is slight bit higher.
     
  14. grendel

    grendel Senior member

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    Do you have a picture?

    Is it the leather cracking, or did you get the Italian Finish with the high-shine on them when they came? It could be the polish cracking.
     
  15. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Hmm...I have always a pronounced V on shoes with closed lacing if I do not size up. Hence I have a majority of derbies in my shoe collection.
    Do want to upgrade the oxford side, but without too wide V's.
    Any suggestions on were to go in brands, lasts?
     
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    You might be right, and it might be the polish cracking. I didn't specify non-polished, so I presume they polish it by default?
     
  17. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    I am afraid I am not yet familiar with enough lasts to give any advise.
    Can just share the little experience I have made myself.
    Do you live close to a big city where you could try on some of the more easily available brands?
    If you are located in Sweden, maybe go to http://www.skoaktiebolaget.se/?
     
  18. violethour1951

    violethour1951 Senior member

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    A question on shoe care for antique cognac calf: is Saphir's neutral cream polish or mid brown cream polish better?
     
  19. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    You want to stay lighter than what you currently have, unless you want a darker shoe.
     
  20. Balmorals

    Balmorals Active Member

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    +1
     

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