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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Jmr928

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Both will do completely handstitched outsole for a fee, but that just puts it higher than Vass.
True - and modified lasts - I didn’t want to throw out off menu options and confuse people ha. Throws you over the US duty threshold when you add trees and taps too which is a whole other can of worms. I also guess I could have included StC and ZB but again all much higher than Vass. I still think they’re the one of the best bang for your buck in the RTW space sub-$600 - at the sale prices? Again just crazy.

Once you get into MTO and abandon low price as a component I have a hard time identifying a best bang for your buck - there are cases to be made for so many of the makers out there between 600-1500 that it varies depending on fit and taste.
 

Betta

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True - and modified lasts - I didn’t want to throw out off menu options and confuse people ha. Throws you over the US duty threshold when you add trees and taps too which is a whole other can of worms. I also guess I could have included StC and ZB but again all much higher than Vass. I still think they’re the one of the best bang for your buck in the RTW space sub-$600 - at the sale prices? Again just crazy.

Once you get into MTO and abandon low price as a component I have a hard time identifying a best bang for your buck - there are cases to be made for so many of the makers out there between 600-1500 that it varies depending on fit and taste.
Yeah agreed. Good point keep it simple. + Those sales prices are amazing (which i've missed in my size twice... Trigger shy lol)
 

bernoulli

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@Smooth Operator I have a pair in the F last but it is a double-monk in size 45.5 (one more time, the 40% off with free shipping helped me reshape my shoe closet to 60% Vass), so it is hard to compare it with my shoes in K and U. The F last works beautifully for a double-monk (the only type of shoes for which I don't like aggressive chiseled toes) and it runs true to size. Since I am a true 44.5 EU regular on the left foot and 45 EU wide on the right, a slim insole took care of the extra space in the left shoe. The blue is museum calf and you can see how it looks under indirectly sunlight in the picture below.

@Jmr928 I really appreciate your sophisticated analysis of pros and cons among shoemakers. I have read some of your posts in other threads and it is always a pleasure to read your thoughts about the footwear industry. Vass made to order is around 500 Euros (600 USD) and it usually comes with metal tap toes and lasted shoe trees (or at least it did in the past). Other than Meccariello, I cannot see any better value proposition out there. I am a fan of Meermin, Finsbury and Loding for cheaper shoes but can't see why anybody would go to Carmina, for instance, if a similar shoe is available through Vass. But that is just my opinion, of course (also, Carminas have low-insteps and I could not find a pair that fitted me right on my last trip to Madrid). I researched alternative makers for my last MTO order from Vass (below) and could not find anything remotely close in quality for the 500 Euros (shipped!) I paid for it, which incidentally included different sizes for the right and left shoes, alongside the tap toes and shoe trees. Mind you, I am in Shanghai and have access to local makers of different qualities. I could have easily gotten a pair exactly like that for half the price, but everything would be lower quality.
Vass 45.5F.jpg
IMG_58992.jpg


Thanks for posting those pics bernoulli! That blue/navy a beauty. I wouldn't have picked up that it wasn't black. Is it a museum calf? I agree the camera distorts the shape a lot. Do you have experience with F last too? I should stop asking so I stop buying 😅
True - and modified lasts - I didn’t want to throw out off menu options and confuse people ha. Throws you over the US duty threshold when you add trees and taps too which is a whole other can of worms. I also guess I could have included StC and ZB but again all much higher than Vass. I still think they’re the one of the best bang for your buck in the RTW space sub-$600 - at the sale prices? Again just crazy.

Once you get into MTO and abandon low price as a component I have a hard time identifying a best bang for your buck - there are cases to be made for so many of the makers out there between 600-1500 that it varies depending on fit and taste.
 

Jmr928

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London 3 eyelet in Bordeaux museum
5F911AA1-0ABD-4DFE-B03B-2A016966EE79.jpeg
690CF051-6FE9-4848-9149-20E7714E42D1.jpeg

DAF7CA1A-F924-4D13-A4A9-35E0C0F42AB1.jpeg

Isaia wool silk linen trews
Isaia super light weight dustin unlined cash silk SC
And in honor of kamakura’s MTM promo - sciolto collar in linen
 

bernoulli

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These are gorgeous. I am usually an Oxford type of guy but I got a London 3 eyelet as well, just in brown museum calf. The Bordeaux is nicer. Great shoes.

Here, I tried on a mirror shine for the first time. I did not hate it.

I0MG_E6535.jpg
IMG_6513.JPG


London 3 eyelet in Bordeaux museum
View attachment 1624531View attachment 1624532
View attachment 1624533
Isaia wool silk linen trews
Isaia super light weight dustin unlined cash silk SC
And in honor of kamakura’s MTM promo - sciolto collar in linen
 

Jmr928

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These are gorgeous. I am usually an Oxford type of guy but I got a London 3 eyelet as well, just in brown museum calf. The Bordeaux is nicer. Great shoes.

Here, I tried on a mirror shine for the first time. I did not hate it.

View attachment 1624839View attachment 1624840
Thanks - I guess I neglected to mention. They’re S last which I think works really well with the London 3 and a little bit chunkier/softer toe than my K and U lasted oxfords.

Nicely done! That mirror is just the right amount of shine for me. Throw back some light and reflection without being super mirrored.
 

bernoulli

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I agree. I am not looking into any shinier than this. I really dig the S last. Mine is in the K last and I agree that the softer toe on your pair is nicer than the shape in mine. I will keep that in mind for future reference. Thanks for sharing.

edited to add: @Jmr928, I would appreciate if you can comment on the difference between the S and the U (or K) lasts.

Thanks - I guess I neglected to mention. They’re S last which I think works really well with the London 3 and a little bit chunkier/softer toe than my K and U lasted oxfords.

Nicely done! That mirror is just the right amount of shine for me. Throw back some light and reflection without being super mirrored.
 
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Aly.B

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DonRaphael

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They look great! Have you had them resoled?
Thanks. No, I haven't. But they've been included in a rotation of 20-25 pair of shoes. So haven't had the need to. And I mostly wear brown or burgundy shoes. So these haven't seen as much wear as my other shoes. The JR sole holds up great, though. When I've needed to resole other shoes, I've always opted for JR.
 

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