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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

emptym

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This may help @CWV and others, but I'd also like some help myself. I'm a 42.5 in Vass's (just own one pair, a chukka on the F last), on a Brannock, 9.75 D/E for right foot, 10.25 C/D for left foot. Others:

Alden - Van or Hampton - 10C with socks or 9.5 D if sockless
Allen Edmonds - Patriot - 10D
Alfred Sargent - 19, 87, 99, or - 9EX UK
Baudoin & Lange - 42 is tight, 43 is loose. Wish they made 42.5
Crocket & Jones - 314 - 9E UK
Edward Green - 184 - 9/9.5E UK/US
Loro Piana Walks - 42.5 is slightly snug
Nike - 10 for thin socks, 10.5 for thick ones
Rider Boot - 4a, RBCB1 - 9.5 for loafers with thin socks, 10 for boots with thick socks
RM Williams - Craftsman - 9G
Teva - 10
Unshoes - 10
Vans - 10

And because of the current sale, I'm thinking of getting a pair of Norwegers on the Peter last. From what @blekit and others said, I should probably get a 43 in the P last if I'm 42.5 in F. Is that the consensus? I'm thinking of getting one in cognac scotchgrain and dying it dark brown.
 
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DonRaphael

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This may help @tbaja27 and others, but I'd also like some help myself. I'm a

42.5 in Vass's (just own one pair, a chukka on the F last),
10 C/D on a Brannock,
10 C or 9.5D in Aldens,
10D in AE,
9 UK in AS,
9/9.5E in EG,
10 in Vans.

And because of the current sale, I'm thinking of getting a pair of Norwegers on the Peter last. From what @blekit and others said, I should probably get a 43 in the P last if I'm 42.5 in F. Is that the consensus? I'm thinking of getting one in antique cognac and dying it to dark brown.
For reference, me:
EG (888): UK8 (not a good fit, went up half size to compensate for width, ended up selling)
AS (724, 109): UK7,5
 

tbaja27

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This may help @tbaja27 and others, but I'd also like some help myself. I'm a

42.5 in Vass's (just own one pair, a chukka on the F last),
10 C/D on a Brannock,
10 C or 9.5D in Aldens,
10D in AE,
9 UK in AS,
9/9.5E in EG,
10 in Vans.

And because of the current sale, I'm thinking of getting a pair of Norwegers on the Peter last. From what @blekit and others said, I should probably get a 43 in the P last if I'm 42.5 in F. Is that the consensus? I'm thinking of getting one in cognac scotchgrain and dying it dark brown.
Seems some size up half a size for the Peter last - some stay the same.
I stay the same - and it works for me.

References:
Carmina Inca/Rain/Forest - 8UK (can fit 7.5UK as well in Rain/Inca). Loafers I size down .5 (but wouldn't go below 7.5UK)
Vass P - 42EU
Vass U - 42EU
Santoni FAM/Goodyear (all over the map) - but 7-7.5UK
Meermin Elton/Rui - 8UK (though monks are 8.5UK and don't fit me very well)
Church's 126 -7.5UK (loafers)
 

Potatoe

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Question, does Vass not do trees in half sizes? My 42s have 42 trees. My 41.5s have 41 trees.

Also just a reminder Vass does toe taps (perfectly btw) for 16 euros, which is about as cheap as i have ever seen it offered.
 

emptym

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For reference, me:
EG (888): UK8 (not a good fit, went up half size to compensate for width, ended up selling)
AS (724, 109): UK7,5
Good point about lasts. I've edited my post to add the lasts and a couple other makers.

I would take the same size in P last as F-last but ymmv. If the pair of Norwegers I returned, prob could have sized down half a size from F last
That's interesting. How would you compare the shape of the two? I've read that the P is a bit wider but shorter.

Seems some size up half a size for the Peter last - some stay the same.
I stay the same - and it works for me.
...
Thanks! I made a mistake. I thought it was you who was asking for sizing advice, but it was @CWV.
 

tbaja27

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That def sounds about right. The P last just doesn't feel as fitted for me
I could have gone down to a 41.5 from a 42 on the P last norwegers. But that would mean only wearing thin socks with the 41.5.

I'm happy with the 42.
 

jayteee

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I need advice from you Vassers. I got a pair of bordeaux museum calf Budapest Oxfords in the U last in my normal size 45. Although the length is fine, the toes are a little tight. A little tight, not a lot. Will these things loosen a bit or should I sell them and try again with 45.5? I don't plan to do a lot of walking in them. These are dress shoes for office/special occasions.
 

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Encore

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How's the instep on you? i.e. is there a "V" gap or you fully closed the laces?

In my experience, the width difference between half sizes is very small. However, when you wear shoes at half size bigger, since your foot sits a big backward, you toes are a bit backward too so it end up sitting in a wider area, (if that makes sense). but for you feet to sit properly backward, i.e. your heel sits at the very end of the shoes. you need to "push" you feet back, usually that's done by lacing tighter.

However, if it's just a little tight, I think you should just wear it (unless your tiny toe is very sensitive) and see if it gets better after breaking in. If it doesn't work, you can use a stretcher or bring it to a cobbler to stretch it properly. Generally it's better to wear a pair of new shoes that fit a little bit tighter.
 

jayteee

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How's the instep on you? i.e. is there a "V" gap or you fully closed the laces?

In my experience, the width difference between half sizes is very small. However, when you wear shoes at half size bigger, since your foot sits a big backward, you toes are a bit backward too so it end up sitting in a wider area, (if that makes sense). but for you feet to sit properly backward, i.e. your heel sits at the very end of the shoes. you need to "push" you feet back, usually that's done by lacing tighter.

However, if it's just a little tight, I think you should just wear it (unless your tiny toe is very sensitive) and see if it gets better after breaking in. If it doesn't work, you can use a stretcher or bring it to a cobbler to stretch it properly. Generally it's better to wear a pair of new shoes that fit a little bit tighter.
Thanks, Encore. Strangely enough, I have almost no "V gap" despite the snugness. I have a fairly high arch.
 

Encore

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Not strange at all, you may have a low instep. I never see gaps on shoes.. literally NEVER.

How's the length, would your feet move around in the shoes?
 

ultramantaro

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I picked up a pair of $199 Allen Edmonds Oxfords, which are good value for the price. But it gave me a chance to compare with my growing Vass collection:

--- the AE shoes look much clunkier: half an inch longer and wider in the toe box, despite the fact that the model I got was their "sleek, European style" shoe with a squarish toe (Cornwallis).

--- Vass heels are much sleeker, being attached without the 360 degree welt. AE heels look huge side by side with Vass. Vass heels provide that pleasing suction sound when you stick your foot in.

--- Despite the AE's greater length and width, the Vass shoes are more comfortable. Vass hugs your feet without pressuring your toes. AE is wide but still pinches here and there, while being a little loose in the heel.

--- The Vass derbies (supposedly a casual shoe) look more elegant than the AE Oxford, owing to the clunky dimensions of the AE.

--- Vass comes with JR soles, which, legend has it, last twice as long as AE's standard soles. Plus AE soles have open stitching, not closed like Vass'.

--- AE's lower heel height aids walking. Vass' higher heels can make it feel sometimes like you're pitching forward, at least when shoes are new.

--- AE calfskin seems comparable to Vass leather, not including Vass museum calf, which seems higher grade.

--- Since AE are more rustic and cheaper, you worry less about scuffing them up or getting them rained on. It's like being less concerned about denting your Ford escort (AE) than your Audi (Vass). They're a good bad weather shoe.

Overall, AE shoes at steep discount are acceptable. But when you consider you can get Vass for $325 these days, I think the choice is easy.
In general all valid comments except for two things:

1- A 360 welt will always give a chunkier look than a European make preferred 270 welt. That gives a tighter heel finish and therefore looks sleeker for a dress shoe.

2 - The Vass shoes are likely more comfortable due to three things: a better fit for your foot first and foremost based on the last shape, could be softer uppers, and hand welting. The first however is the most important.

Enjoy the new shoes though. They are wonderful!
 

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