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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Actually, I don't see much difference between the common run of Scotch Grain and this.

    It is pulled flat over the toe and through the vamp...perhaps moreso than it would be if it were machine lasted but not much. The flattening effect is pretty commo0n for artificially textured leathers.
     


  2. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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  3. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you're welcome.

    actually, the pebble is not different as you can see it's only smoothed out around the toe and at the heel(not visible).

    it's about the lasting and the way the upper is treated, when resting on the last.
     


  4. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Fritzl the grain on these Cheaneys is what I mean: to me looks rougher, more 3D. yes the Cheaney toe is smoother cos it's stretched, but unstretched vamp appears more textured to me :satisfied: ay, but i could be mistaken
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  5. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    imo, by a thin hair.

    fwiw, the cheaney toe is burnished? so this is artifical and not from the making process. i could be wrong.
     


  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The run-of the-mill 'Scotch-Grain' is a cowhide (not calf) which gets grain corrected, so the coarse grain gets sanded off. Then a new artificial grain gets constructed by pressing a textured roller over the hide, leaving that 'mountain and valley' texture. Of course you can design the surface of the roller in anyway you like. (If you want to, you can end up with a leather which shows little flowers all-over.) The colouring of the Vass leather is typical for Scotch-Grain, the hide gets dyed in one shade, then an additional darker colour gets rolled over, the darker shades stays on the 'mountain tops', with the 'valleys' in a lighter shade.

    Judging by the pictures (I can be wrong) the Cheaney leather might be what is usually called a 'Country-Calf', a full-grain (not corrected grain) leather which gets in addition a rolled-over texture to hide blemishes and increase yield. The leather has a softer handle than the standard Scotch-Grain. Take a magnifying glass, can you see the pores between the pebble texture?

    There are other ways to create a pebble texture, the leather can be shrunk or milled and tumbled. But that's quite a costly way of doing things.

    http://www.weinheimer-leder.com/images/dsc01664.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2011


  7. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    the Cheaneys are burnished yes.

    cheers - the smoothness of the Vass pebble is more obvious in Will's chukka and Manton's 3 eye London - both of which are just fantastic IMO - the grain in the lower shot looks almost like a glaze. Perhaps it's the same as the Cheaney, but just pulled tighter by the hand-lasting and long resting. Only way to know is to ask Vass, and that aint easy.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    sorry, i don't need will or manton. you can ask every bespoke maker, i already did, hence my comment. it's that easy.

    in my case it was mr. weiner. for me one of the most authentic guys i met in regard of shoemaking. no surprise, that fellow member binge fell in love during his visit to vienna. he choosed one of the sample models, which fitted him perfectly and it's one of his favourite shoes. no magic included.

    on a random note: i handled a pair of shoes in presence of my leather conceptionist. it shined good and was subtle. the look and feel was gorgeous. he just said: it's crap, so what do i know.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2011


  9. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     


  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    ^^^^very nice - that the Burgundy?
     


  11. MMorley

    MMorley Well-Known Member

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    Great shoe in a wonderful colour. What colour is it?
     


  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    those IT OX are sweet

    color looks like bordo'
     


  13. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    Whats happening at Vass, they dumping shoes ? Looks like Ascot have a shit load off Vass and theyre all on ebay. Some strange styles too :crazy:
     


  14. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    maybe Ascot commissions them himself. Maybe they were made for a particular market (a lot of v small sizes) - they didn't sell, and he got them cheap.
     


  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Either way, they're nasty.
     


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