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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Happy to share ;)

    They now have a dedicated room where they store the wooden lasts by the way, a room where the conditions can be controlled much more than before. This has helped in consistency.
     

  2. Zapasman

    Zapasman Distinguished Member

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    @Notch . Do you happen to know if they have different lasts for different widths.?
     

  3. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    @Zapasman : I never spent enough time inside the actual factory to know that. The previous factory was located outside of Budapest, and their new factory is closer to the store but still, I always met with Rezso inside the store. Very different from how I operate now with the factory I use for my own brand of shoes.

    I know that they sometimes modified existing lasts, but that was more for a higher instep or things like that. Similar to the personal last adjustments Saint Crispin does.

    How exactly they make wider fitting lasts, I can't say for sure.
     

  4. Zapasman

    Zapasman Distinguished Member

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    Thanks Notch. I doubt they manage so many lasts.
     

  5. WilYa

    WilYa Senior Member

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  6. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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  7. WilYa

    WilYa Senior Member

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    I am pretty sure they stock up to UK10. Better ask them by email with your sizing and they will give you a stock list.
     

  8. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Thanks gentlemen for all the kind responses particularly detailed response by Tom @Notch

    If I were to go MTO, I’m trying to decide on specs for a proper country derby.

    I already have the Classic Budapester on the F Last in Bordeaux Museum. They fit pretty well, if a bit snug in the vamp but hopefully will break in nicely. It’s a very beautiful Brogue but seems almost too elegant to be worn with country dress (cords, moleskin, tweed, etc). I’m thinking more flannel suits and dress trousers for this shoe not country dress.

    For the MTO, I’m thinking country last and leather and possible double soled. Regarding color, I tend to darker shoes for versatility. I know Vass does lots of light colors (cognacs) well but what would be the optimal color for such a country shoe?

    Does anyone have a fine example I could use as a jump off point?

    Alan Bee
     

  9. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    My personal preference would be the Norweger as a classic Vass style, either in scotch grain or dark brown calf:

    upload_2019-1-13_11-14-18.jpeg
     

  10. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Seconded.

    @Alan Bee : Personally, for a Budapester shoe, I'd recommend either the Budapest last (really underrated), or the New Peter last.

    I MTO'd a shoe for a client once which was really beautiful. It was the original Budapester style from the Vass book, with a slightly different shape at the eyelet stay. I don't think I have a picture of it, but I added a picture from the cover of the book. Inside the book there is a better picture, I can send it to you on Monday (also remings me that I promised someone to send outsole measurements of two pair of Vass :))

    If it were me, I'd probably go for something like the following (besides the Norweger advised by Simon):

    - Budapester model
    - New Peter last (same size as F, usually)
    - Dark brown calf leather (really stunning in combination with dark brown scotchgrain)
    - Double leather sole
    - Goyser welt

    I'd definitely recommend a combination of calf and scotchgrain, as Vass' scotchgrain is really famous. Only thing is that it would make the shoes slightly less versatile, IMO.
     

  11. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Thank you @SimonC

    I already own the EG Dover in dark oak on the classic 606. Don't you think this Norweger looks too similar?

    Besides I was thinking more along the lines of a wingtip (Budapester) or Half Brogue (Alt Wien) for a casual chunky “ass kicker” Derby.

    One last question: for those who own Vass oxfords, I find EG/St Crispin/GG/Anthony Cleverley (each I have in an Oxford) more elegant due to the close and more refined welting. Am I off the mark to think that one should stick to what Vass does best, It’s traditional derbies (Budapester etc.).

    I’m having a hard time coming around anything else Vass but then again I have yet to see the oxfords in person.

    Alan bee
     

  12. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    @Notch Sounds like a killer combo. But the Goyser welt seems like taking it a bit over the edge. Will consider this combo.

    Found something similar on google. Not sure what last it is on.

    IMG_2664.JPG

    Alan Bee
     

  13. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Distinguished Member

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    I strongly recommend 270 or 360 degree goyser for Budapester on Peter 2. The stitching is really beautiful and compliments the last very well. I personally find Peter 2 looks a bit....”empty” without it. Plus it feels solid as a rock around my foot...

    The classic Vass norweger is a different shoe from a Dover type NST. The aesthetics and construction at the toe seems are not the same. IMO there is room for both in a man’s wardrobe. Vass makes an NST called “Oslo” model that is closer to Dover style, but with a thick hand stitch instead of pie crust type stitch. Similar to Alden’s NST.

    I agree with you that machine stitched outsoles at high SPI from the likes of EG and JL seem more elegant for Oxfords than the handstitch that Vass uses. However, these shoes are still very handsome, and it is worth appreciating the hand processes that go into these products.

    But horses for courses!
     

  14. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    ‘Horses for courses’ from me too - I appreciate the U last, but for me what Vass does best is the high toebox classic models, which do have a very distinctive aesthetic from (for example) Edward Green.

    The raised stitching on their Norweger models complements the welting nicely - so long as you don’t start messing around by mixing leathers on the same shoe, you’ll end up with something elegant yet undoubtedly purposeful.
     

  15. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    I like grain for a country derby. These are on P2. It's a generous but still shapely last, and combined with the Norvegese stitching is as countrified as I need for casual wear.

    [​IMG]
     

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