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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    Yes, but the cost to get it done in UK and then lasted in Budapest was too high. I bugged Karl about it for a couple of months. He was disappointed he couldn't get it to work numbers wise.
     

  2. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Distinguished Member

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    Yeah, may as well just go with s different maker. Chelsea is a UK speciality, after all.

    Although Enzo Bonafe does a fantastic wholecut Chelsea for a reasonable price. I have a pair and love it.
     

  3. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    Those EB Chelseas do look good.
     

  4. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Gentlemen of Vass,

    Besides Ascot Shoes (Ebay and website), who else carries Vass RTW shoes online? Can you recommend any strongly?

    Thank you

    Alan Bee
     

  5. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    GTAShoeshine

    Off the top of my head.
     

  6. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Had a look at both. Unfortunately very thin selection size EU 45 and above.

    Thank you
     

  7. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Vass sizing is a little idiosyncratic - it can make sense to order from a supplier who has a good returns policy, at least whilst getting to grips with sizing. Ascot has been good in my dealings beforehand.

    Having said that. From memory you are in the Middle East? Maybe the option to order direct from Vass - they are pretty helpful, and will let you know what they have in stock. I’ve had a few lovely pairs from their store stock, as well as ordering others MTO.
     

  8. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    @SimonC

    Thank you for chipping in. Indeed I’m out in the desert and have no access to a retailer.

    I recently picked up pair of Budapester 1006 in F Last museum Bordeaux from Ascot and it is a beautiful Brogue. 45 EU.

    The fit is fantastic all around and hold my foot like a vice (in a good way) but very snug across the vamp. As I always do before going MTO, I want to nail down my size and looking for either an F Last 45.5 or P2 45 (which I hear is more generous in the forefoot).

    Took a look at Vass website and didn’t see anything I liked in those sizes. Ascot has a large selection but very little in >45 EU

    Alan.
     

  9. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Two comments:

    1. The handwelted construction on Vass seems to generate more per-pair size variation than other brands such as Bonafe or St Crispin. Therefore be a little careful in assuming the next pair in the same size and last will fit identically. This is also exacerbated by the model - for example the Old English II is more roomy than the Old English on the same last.

    2. Best way to see what Vass has is to e-mail them. They will have a lot in the store which is not on the website. If you quote a last and size they will probably have half a dozen options.
     

  10. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    Oh dear! And I thought I was almost home and dry ....

    I have terribly odd feet (flat, long, narrow heels with low instep) and basically have had to had dress shoes made by EG, St Crispin, Anthony Cleverley.

    When I tried on the F last, I was like wow! Never had RTW fit that well off the box (except some snugness in the vamp.

    Are you suggesting that a similar shoe in same last and size might not fit the same?

    Alan
     

  11. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    Even among Vass retailers, the primary business model is MTO. I've done several orders through Ascot and GTA Shoeshine and have been very happy with both.
     

  12. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Distinguished Member

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    From what I’ve read, I might guess that this has to do with the way labor is distributed. I think the artisans in the workshop have a higher consolidation of processes than Bonafe, for example, where workers have more or less
    Only one process to focus on.

    I could be way off.
     

  13. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    Yes. To my understanding one worker in the Vass factory (or atelier for those who want this to be an artisanal experience) make each pair. The writing in the shoe will actually have the code for the worker who made it.
     

  14. Notch

    Notch Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    What I remember from my time with Vass (2011- early 2018, and I still work and talk to them regularly), the shoes pass down a line just like with most factories. It is very apparent in some production pictures that you can find online, every worker is usually doing the same thing in all of the pictures.

    Of course, things could have changed.

    What you say about sizing being slightly off from one shoe to another is true (sometimes), but the reason for this is manifold. The fact for example that they use wooden lasts is one of them. Type of leather, the length of time the leather stays on the last, the thickness of the leather, the force with which it is pulled over the last, the way the welt is attached to the shoe,... all of that together sometimes makes for small differences.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019 at 12:51 PM

  15. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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