The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[stephenaf2003]

you're right on that, except a few vintage bespoke numbers I couldn't resist, they were made for me.

unfortunately two of the makers have passed away already and they literally died in their workshops. At 89 and 84, one can say they had a long and fulfilled life and they were true masters of the craft. R.I.P.

One guy, whom we've been introduced to by the lastmaker Berta Kálmán, is retired since a few years. his name is Jenö Kovacs and he also lives in the town of Pápá. he was probably the most fun, due to the fact, that we needed a translator. all worked out.

the best fit is a relative term, imo. it depends on so many parameters and most of all personal preferences. e.g. Mr. Aleandru Maftei and I agreed, that fit happens in the head. sounds pathetic, but given the size is basically right on your first pair. there might be room for improvement.

basically, I worked with the best of the best available to me, still its not easy to determine the best fit, but thoughts went into improvements, preferred styles and there happened tweaks over the years here and there. I wasn't only customer, I was interested how things could be improved. fit is not a steady measure, you'll hear this from a lot of bespoke customers.

Another story, which is stuck into my head, when it comes to bespoke shoes and their issues. this time it was Lucian Maftei, the older son of Alexandru. he said to me: you know things were easier before. the local clientele in vienna were informed and familiar with bespoke shoes. then we were discovered by an international clientele and the work became more difficult due to the fact, that they wore the wrong shoes most of their lives, even expensive ones, which makes the whole process/procedure much more difficult, as you can imagine.

Very interesting. Especially that last bit. Sadly, that last bit, likely escapes most people’s understanding.

 

[fritzl]

Very interesting. Especially that last bit. Sadly, that last bit, likely escapes most people’s understanding.

probably it escapes, but not everyone is interested in a deeper knowledge of the process and its not a knowledge taught in school. regarding wearing the wrong shoes for a longer period of time and then to think of bespoke can cure it, yes this is kind of sad, true.

 

[eightace]

P2 last Theresianer high boots:

 

[Bojan Zebic]

P2 last Theresianer high boots:
View attachment 928521 View attachment 928522

Very nice, what type of leather and colour is it?

 

[stephenaf2003]

P2 last Theresianer high boots:
View attachment 928521 View attachment 928522

The P2 is a great last for a boot.

 

[eightace]

Very nice, what type of leather and colour is it?

Brown calf, 270 goyser stitching with dainite soles.

 

[Bojan Zebic]

P2 boots enjoying themselves in front of the fire place.

 

[budapest12]

^ Lit the fire with those boots.

 

[Bojan Zebic]

^ Lit the fire with those boots.

Ha ha ha you're right just saw it now that it looks like the left boot started the fire

 

[reidd]

@Bojan Zebic

This is excellent information. What do you think of Vass' flush metal toe and heel caps? I am considering a mto pair of oxfords on F last in walnut museum, possibly Old English II. Thoughts? I'm thinking this is probably the most quintessentially Vass style and hopefully I can wear with jeans through to dark suits although the golash style is appealing as well.

 

[taxgenius]

^How would flush plates affect style?

 

[Bojan Zebic]

@Bojan Zebic

This is excellent information. What do you think of Vass' flush metal toe and heel caps? I am considering a mto pair of oxfords on F last in walnut museum, possibly Old English II. Thoughts? I'm thinking this is probably the most quintessentially Vass style and hopefully I can wear with jeans through to dark suits although the golash style is appealing as well.

Old English II is really nice, I also love their Adelaide or as they call it at Vass Italian brouge model. As for toe plates I have them on these P2 you see in the photo and to be honest (just my personal opinion) I really hate them. They make the boots sliperry they scratch everything like wooden floor at my home, the clutch and gas pedal on my car and they make noise while walking. But they do protect the front and back. But like people at Vass always advise fir protection, I would always rather put on leather sole and heel rubber pads as they nicely protect sole, make your shoes rain proof and because of the pads I never had to re sole any of the pads just professionally change them every 3 years which is a 20€ cost.

 

[fritzl]

@Bojan Zebic

This is excellent information. What do you think of Vass' flush metal toe and heel caps? I am considering a mto pair of oxfords on F last in walnut museum, possibly Old English II. Thoughts? I'm thinking this is probably the most quintessentially Vass style and hopefully I can wear with jeans through to dark suits although the golash style is appealing as well.

hmmh, the most essential style would be a budapester on budapester last. as the name indicates old english is not essential hungarian, ymmv.

 

[fritzl]

^How would flush plates affect style?

care to elaborate? flush plates are a protector, not an accessory, imo.

 

[Bojan Zebic]

hmmh, the most essential style would be a budapester on budapester last. as the name indicates old english is not essential hungarian, ymmv.

Yeah the Budapesters are typical of Vass and Budapest, and even though Vass ones are the slickest compared to other Budapest shoe makers they don’t work well with a suit, they’re great in cognac with dark jeans, but reidd up there needs them for both things.