The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    + 1 - not quite sure what the OP means here.

    thats quite simple.

    the cobbler/shoemaker grounds/sands down the frame a bit.

    i have done this recently on several pairs. not a big deal and it can improve the appearance, depending on your personal preferences.
     


  2. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    thats quite simple.

    the cobbler/shoemaker grounds/sands down the frame a bit.

    i have done this recently on several pairs. not a big deal and it can improve the appearance, depending on your personal preferences.


    Ahh right - yup - would be interested to see the results then
     


  3. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,466
    Likes Received:
    309
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Ahh right - yup - would be interested to see the results then
    I have seen them (quar's) in the flesh. Objectively it is a small difference, but it does alter the overall look quite a bit. The cobber sands down the edge of the sole around the forepart, avoids sanding the beveled waist, and then if needed repeats the process around the heel. The freshly resanded bits are then recoloured. For a similar result - just look at any Lobb City, where the edge is trimmed really close to the upper. IMO the larger welt 'lip' is part of what makes Vass shoes look a little more rustic, and perhaps a little less elegant.
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    welt 'lip'

    ah, now i have this term handy, ty.
     


  5. quar

    quar Senior member

    Messages:
    545
    Likes Received:
    35
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Here's a pair I had sanded back by my Cobbler. Process as per apropos's description. Makes all the difference for me.

    [​IMG]
     


  6. quar

    quar Senior member

    Messages:
    545
    Likes Received:
    35
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009


  7. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    ^^ He's done a good job. That makes it look like a completely different shoe. Less rugged. Not sure if it would work so well on a double sole?
     


  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,895
    Likes Received:
    8,132
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    And another.

    [/IMG]


    cheers, they look good. wonder if Vass would just make a tighter welt on request. fwiw tho i like the shoes the way they are and have never thought of it an an issue. part of the character
     


  9. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

    Messages:
    3,186
    Likes Received:
    269
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    cheers, they look good. wonder if Vass would just make a tighter welt on request. fwiw tho i like the shoes the way they are and have never thought of it an an issue. part of the character

    Agreed. If I want a less prominent welt, English shoes with single soles are the way to go. Having said that, a less prominent welt on black calf U or F last oxfords can look very nice in single sole.
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    Not sure if it would work so well on a double sole?

    you're talking about the look?
     


  11. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

    Messages:
    4,880
    Likes Received:
    1,162
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    you're talking about the look?

    Yep. I think trimming a double sole back would look odd. What say you?
     


  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    If I want a less prominent welt, English shoes with single soles are the way to go.

    the prominence of the welt has nothing to do with the thickness of the sole... [​IMG]
     


  13. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

    Messages:
    3,186
    Likes Received:
    269
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2004
    the prominence of the welt has nothing to do with the thickness of the sole... [​IMG]

    I suspect you and I are on different wavelengths here.
     


  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    the prominence of the welt has nothing to do with the thickness of the sole... [​IMG]
    I believe they go hand in hand, but don't necessarily have to. On my last pair of MTO EG's I had them do a 1.5 thickness sole. The welt stuck out noticeably more than previous shoes which wasn't something I asked for, but ended up liking.
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Braunau, Austria
    Yep. I think trimming a double sole back would look odd. What say you?

    i say, it's depending on what you're aiming at. what's your motivation.

    quar's method to do it locally with your cobbler is a very good way to achieve a perfect result.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by