The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[TtownMD]

^^^^both of you gents are correct if you are saying bang for the buck & value yes lol but we all spend 1000$ Plus on shoes that value ratio has far gone long time ago so buy whatever makes you happy !!

 

[ThunderMarch]

Just as price is NOT an indication of quality, it is also NOT an indication of value.
In other words, paying a high price does not equate to no value.
You have to learn to de-couple the variables of price, and value / quality. And assess the quality of the shoes based on its own merits alone.
There are plenty of makers that offer good value in the >$1k range. Just because they are more expensive, doesn't mean they are not "bang for buck". There are plenty of things that >$1k makers do, that are simply not available in the <$1k price range.
I will illustrate this with one example. Take for example, a certain Italian maker's Aurum line (INCLUDING the price of one pair of test shoes) (total cost circa 1400 Euros), and compare it to a certain maker's Deco line.
Name me ONE thing, that the more expensive of the 2 options, does OBJECTIVELY BETTER, than the other, DISREGARDING construction method.

That's right.

Nothing.

And then, let's now comment on the construction method each of these makers use. Gasp.

Now, who is better value?

 

[nickrut]

What are the objective qualities of a shoe? Leather quality and construction? Last shape seems subjective, fiddled waist seems subjective as some people may not like it, design seems subjective as well.

 

[ThunderMarch]

You can start with construction method and leather quality yes.
Material used for insoles, material used for outsoles, type of thread used for inseaming / welting, SPI on the uppers, SPI on the outsole stitching, cleanness and tidiness of these 2 stitches, hand stitched vs machine stitched outsoles, fudge work / stitch prick work on the welt, blind welting at the waist, brogueing done by hand. I won't mention antiqueing / patina work because it's too "subjective"....
To name a few.

 

[rbhan12]



You can start with construction method and leather quality yes. 
Material used for insoles, material used for outsoles, type of thread used for inseaming / welting, SPI on the uppers, SPI on the outsole stitching, cleanness and tidiness of these 2 stitches, hand stitched vs machine stitched outsoles, fudge work / stitch prick work on the welt, blind welting at the waist, brogueing done by hand. I won't mention antiqueing / patina work because it's too "subjective"....
To name a few. 

That's before we get to the aesthetic shape of the last itself.

 

[ecwy]

^^^^both of you gents are correct if you are saying bang for the buck & value yes lol but we all spend 1000$ Plus on shoes that value ratio has far gone long time ago so buy whatever makes you happy !!

There are always differences in value no matter at whatever price range. You just need to be able to identify it.

There are also differences in value to an individual. For example, I would pay more for a hand-welt but I don't actually care too much if the sole was hand-stitched or machine-stitched.

 

[ino68]



^^^^both of you gents are correct if you are saying bang for the buck & value yes lol but we all spend 1000$ Plus on shoes that value ratio has far gone long time ago so buy whatever makes you happy !!

Exactly!! It's all style/something you 'must have'/appreciate on some level.

GG also tends to be more fashion forward as the only real distinction they have over say EG, and for quite a while they were priced higher as well for it!

 

[SuitedDx]

Looking to have a pair of wholecuts made. Initially heard the S and SP have lower insteps; however, Mr. Kuti stated that the S & SP's instep is higher compared to the U and F. Can those who own the S or SP comment on this?

Since the S & SP is longer/wider, I assume sizing is similar to F? Thanks for any clarification.

 

[agedashidofu]



Looking to have a pair of wholecuts made. Initially heard the S and SP have lower insteps; however, Mr. Kuti stated that the S & SP's instep is higher compared to the U and F. Can those who own the S or SP comment on this?

Since the S & SP is longer/wider, I assume sizing is similar to F? Thanks for any clarification.

I say if Mr. Kuti had already confirmed it then it's probably the most reliable information you can get. He would know best I guess. I had seen s / sp last before (never tried them on) but I'm not a big fan of either.

 

[peppercorn78]



Looking to have a pair of wholecuts made. Initially heard the S and SP have lower insteps; however, Mr. Kuti stated that the S & SP's instep is higher compared to the U and F. Can those who own the S or SP comment on this?

Since the S & SP is longer/wider, I assume sizing is similar to F? Thanks for any clarification.

Mr. Kuti told me that given the same length, SP would be almost a whole width up from U. I would think most of that would be due to the longer and less tapered toebox. But maybe others with IRL experience can help more.

 

[Zapasman]

How does the F last compare to the P2 last? If I wear 43.5 F will a 43 P2 work?

My advise is that if F last is tight get size 43 on P2. If F is a bit loose get 43.5 F. If F fits you snug and great and you decide to go for a pair of boots still consider to get 43.F. I my case to size down 0.5 would work. Suerte amigo.

 

[Webbo]

My advise is that if F last is tight get size 43 on P2. If F is a bit loose get 43.5 F. If F fits you snug and great and you decide to go for a pair of boots still consider to get 43.F. I my case to size down 0.5 would work. Suerte amigo.

Agree, I'm 1 size larger but apply exactly the same principle

 

[SimonC]

I lost out in the Vass sizing gamble, so my Osloer boots are in the classifieds:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/522215/vass-osloer-high-boot-in-antique-cognac-boxcalf-p2-last-45-5/0_50

 

[TtownMD]



There are always differences in value no matter at whatever price range. You just need to be able to identify it.

There are also differences in value to an individual. For example, I would pay more for a hand-welt but I don't actually care too much if the sole was hand-stitched or machine-stitched.

What you said is correct but what I am saying, bang for a buck, I am saying that you are in 400$ to 600$ price range shoe like vass & EB that give you top level shoes value & feel with small price. That's were vass & EB shines. As far as 1000$ plus shoes goes gents on SF who are buying them are not really looking for bang of a buck. They tend to have more than couple of pairs of top tier shoe makers like gg, eg, stcrispin, Antonio M, John lobb etc. And buying what appeals to them & not really concern about cost. I am guilty of this with other gents on SF.

 

[SteveL91]

Hate to interrupt the current conversation with yet another appeal for sizing advice, but I'm lost when it comes to Vass, and there are pairs I'm looking at on a variety of lasts (P2, Budapest, New Peter, F, and U). I've looked around and it's been hard to come to any conclusions; sizing has been further complicated since it seems Vass shoes are rather variable regardless of listed size.

For reference: I'm a 10US on a brannock, and I feel I have a lowish volume foot, though I wear a medium width. I do not have a high instep, which makes me nervous about some of the Vass lasts.
Meermin, 9UK (perhaps a bit small, but not uncomfortable)
Herring Knightsbridge, 9UK (fits well)
Allen Edmonds 65 last, 9.5 (I've never actually tried a 10 in these, so I don't have a point of reference)
Alden for Brooks Brothers, 9.5 (fits well in the toe box, but there's some heel slippage. I've also found conflicting information regarding the sizing of the last: some say it's the Barrie last, others say it's a different last that fits identically to the Barrie last, etc)

Also, if I have to choose, I'd rather my shoes be a bit large than a bit small.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve