The Ultimate Toronto Thread

[mebiuspower]

The largest sizes that I recall seeing are 54 EU (44 US) for jackets and suits and I think 38 waist for trousers.

How fatphobic...

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Lol Im in the design team

Thanks for answering my question. I definitely trust your cred on the design changing. I'm curious if you can provide more detail though. When, why, how did the tailoring construction change? Etc.

 

[CutandSew]

Does anyone if there's any waxed cotton cleaning service in Toronto?

Is this for something like a Barbour or Belstaff jacket? I think your best bet might be to do it yourself. Basically spot cleaning with a damp cloth or sponge. That’s what I do. If it’s really soiled and or stinky you may need a mild soap specifically for waxed cotton and a lot of time airing out on a clothesline.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Does anyone if there's any waxed cotton cleaning service in Toronto?

No. Doesn’t exist. Send it to New England Reproofers or DIY.

 

[Encore]

Is this for something like a Barbour or Belstaff jacket? I think your best bet might be to do it yourself. Basically spot cleaning with a damp cloth or sponge. That’s what I do. If it’s really soiled and or stinky you may need a mild soap specifically for waxed cotton and a lot of time airing out on a clothesline.

No. Doesn’t exist. Send it to New England Reproofers or DIY.

It's a PWVC. I already gave it to the dry cleaning downstairs lol

 

[Spaghettimatt]

It's a PWVC. I already gave it to the dry cleaning downstairs lol

Interesting. I thought you couldn't dry clean waxed cotton but I'm happy to be corrected.

Let us know how it goes, please. Shipping to/from NE Reproofers costs a fortune.

 

[partenopean]

So do the tailored garments now have a full floating canvas?

Do you expect someone who actually works at Brunello Cucinelli, or at any other globally-reputed luxury fashion house for that matter, to answer this question -- in the context that it has arisen here?

Just to back up the truck -- someone here who is essentially advertising that they are a custom tailor, takes apart a suit jacket that has Brunello Cucinelli labels and posts photos.
Provenance, history of use or alteration, how it was maintained (washer dryer, dry clean, ...) pretty much everything about this suit jacket -- unknown.

He then displays bits and pieces of the scraps, to an audience most of whom, if I may be so bold, have no idea what they are looking at.

They also have no idea what elements should be in a classically-constructed suit jacket, what's missing, what's shortcutted, where a machine is actually better than handstitching (if anywhere), etc etc tec.

My impression was the takehome message was basically:
"If you have big money to spend on a suit, don't spend it buying Brunello Cucinelli, it is not worth the money. come to me instead. i know about quality".

While he is free to do this, and yes this forum is the place to do this, my take is this approach is generally in bad taste.

I figured he would target the luxury brands most ubiquitous in Toronto retailers (Harry's, Holts, etc) or brands with their boutiques.

Not surprisingly, Zegna was next. Zegna is a staple at Harrys. The Zegna boutique on Bloor STreet only closed last year I think.

My guess is the next will be an Isaia, another staple on Harry's glass display cases, and given the store on Bellair St. Although with Isaia, he may be biting off more than he can chew.

Anyways, my point is when it comes down to reality, the price of a Brunello Cucinelli suit to a buyer is not determined by whether it has a full-floating canvas, horsehair or otherwise.

The problem is you are equating a full-floating canvas with top quality. While I agree with you 100%, most suit buyers don't. I don't work in retail, but that is my general impression. They are looking for other metrics like design, fabric, or -- you may be amazed and bewilder to find out -- what the suit actually looks like them on them and how comfortable it is, in determining how much it is worth to them.


Just my 2 cents.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Do you expect someone who actually works at Brunello Cucinelli, or at any other globally-reputed luxury fashion house for that matter, to answer this question?

Just to back up the truck -- someone here who is essentially advertising that they are a custom tailor, takes apart a suit jacket that has Brunello Cucinelli labels and posts photos.
Provenance, history of use or alteration, how it was maintained (washer dryer, dry clean, ...) pretty much everything about this suit jacket -- unknown.

He then displays bits and pieces of the scraps, to an audience most of whom, if I may be so bold, have no idea what they are looking at.

They also have no idea what elements should be in a classically-constructed suit jacket, what's missing, what's shortcutted, where a machine is actually better than handstitching (if anywhere), etc etc tec.

My impression was the takehome message was basically:
"If you have big money to spend on a suit, don't spend it buying Brunello Cucinelli, it is not worth the money. come to me instead. i know about quality".

While he is free to do this, and yes this forum is the place to do this, my take is this approach is generally in bad taste.

I figured he would target the luxury brands most ubiquitous in Toronto retailers (Harry's, Holts, etc) or brands with their boutiques.

Not surprisingly, Zegna was next. Zegna is a staple at Harrys. The Zegna boutique on Bloor STreet only closed last year I think.

My guess is the next will be an Isaia, another staple on Harry's glass display cases, and given the store on Bellair St. Although with Isaia, he may be biting off more than he can chew.

Anyways, my point is when it comes down to reality, the price of a Brunello Cucinelli suit to a buyer is not determined by whether it has a full-floating canvas, horsehair or otherwise.

The problem is you are equating a full-floating canvas with top quality. While I agree with you 100%, most suit buyers don't. I don't work in retail, but that is my general impression. They are looking for other metrics like design, fabric, or even God help us, what the suit actually looks like them on them and how comfortable it is, in determining how much it is worth to them.


Just my 2 cents.

I mean the guy put his money where his mouth is and actually opened the garment(s) up. That’s more than anybody else on this forum besides Jeffrey Diduch can say—and mind you Diduch dissected a Solito jacket and **** all over it, creating a small scandal of its own on this forum years ago. I think Diduch did a lukewarm dissection of a Tom Ford suit as well. This type of posting by a tailor isn’t new around here.

I think the suit dissections are really interesting and informative. Iirc he has also taken apart an Attolini and a Canali, which fared much better in his estimation. Which in turn gives me the impression that he’s not just driving business to himself.

I’m not riding his dick or anything, but I think your skepticism is unfounded and I don’t see how it is in bad taste.

Also, yeah, I would expect the Cucinelli designer who came in here to say “that’s an old garment and we don’t make them like that anymore” to back that statement up.

 

[rwtc]

The problem is you are equating a full-floating canvas with top quality. While I agree with you 100%, most suit buyers don't. I don't work in retail, but that is my general impression. They are looking for other metrics like design, fabric, or -- you may be amazed and bewilder to find out -- what the suit actually looks like them on them and how comfortable it is, in determining how much it is worth to them.

Couldn't agree with you more

 

[Viral]

A lot of American companies simply think they can drop in the same model for selling to US to Canada, when Canada is a different enough market both in terms of size and customer behaviour.

What’s the model for Toronto?

It’s no secret that America dominates Canada culturally. Every time an American brand/product/service is available here Torontonians see it as a form of validation, like a “we’re parts of the club” type of effect. Right now, the buzz around Shake Shack opening in 2024 is proof of this. There will be an anti-climactic element to this once people realize it’s just average fast food - will Shake Shack survive here in the long run?

 

[Spaghettimatt]

What’s the model for Toronto?

It’s no secret that America dominates Canada culturally. Every time an American brand/product/service is available here Torontonians see it as a form of validation, like a “we’re parts of the club” type of effect. Right now, the buzz around Shake Shack opening in 2024 is proof of this. There will be an anti-climactic element to this once people realize it’s just average fast food - will Shake Shack survive here in the long run?

Lol yes. This reminds me of the insane fanfare in Toronto back in like 2012 when the first J. Crew store opened in the Eaton Center. That luster wore off pretty quickly.

Anyways, yes, the Canadian market is a smaller market. But is it really that different in terms of customer behavior? I think the only difference is that purchasing consumer goods in Canada is significantly more expensive as a result of taxes, import duties, and a weak Canadian dollar (or if something is made domestically, then stronger worker protections and wage laws). But having ****** consumer purchasing power compared to the U.S. is just the trade off that Canadians make for having a stronger social welfare system.

 

[Viral]

Lol yes. This reminds me of the insane fanfare in Toronto back in like 2012 when the first J. Crew store opened in the Eaton Center. That luster wore off pretty quickly.

Anyways, yes, the Canadian market is a smaller market. But is it really that different in terms of customer behavior? I think the only difference is that purchasing consumer goods in Canada is significantly more expensive as a result of taxes, import duties, and a weak Canadian dollar (or if something is made domestically, then stronger worker protections and wage laws). But having ****** consumer purchasing power compared to the U.S. is just the trade off that Canadians make for having a stronger social welfare system.

That’s THE difference - how the **** do people buy certain things in Toronto as such crazy prices?

 

[Spaghettimatt]

That’s THE difference - how the **** do people buy certain things in Toronto as such crazy prices?

This is the mystery to me as well. People in here are talking about buying Cucinelli and Zegna etc. from Hazelton Lanes or Harry Rosen and I'm like... what do you guys do for a living? Canadian incomes are so low compared to U.S. incomes, and the cost of conspicuous consumption is so high. It's a little surprising honestly.

 

[suitforcourt]

This is the mystery to me as well. People in here are talking about buying Cucinelli and Zegna etc. from Hazelton Lanes or Harry Rosen and I'm like... what do you guys do for a living? Canadian incomes are so low compared to U.S. incomes, and the cost of conspicuous consumption is so high. It's a little surprising honestly.

I've never understood. I believe I make decent coin and don't spend everything I make. But it seems like everyone else can drop a few grand (and more) every year on their wardrobe.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I've never understood. I believe I make decent coin and don't spend everything I make. But it seems like everyone else can drop a few grand (and more) every year on their wardrobe.

I’m an attorney as well, and similarly make good money, and I also don’t get it.