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burgerkong

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Trying to find a list of bespoke tailors in Toronto has been a big struggle on this thread since I started on StyleForum back in 2017. When I began looking for apprenticeships some ten years ago, I was frustrated by the lack of an index or contact sheet that could point me in the right direction. I sent e-mails to a list of different tailors from the Asociacion Española de Sastreria (AES)... to which, of course, I never received a reply, but the idea still stuck with me all these years.

So after three years of brainstorming, and converging with a lot of skepticism, I was finally able to get a group of individuals together yesterday to initiate what will hopefully become a society, board, or authority of bespoke tailors right here in Toronto (moreso Ontario). Call it what you will.

The focus will mostly be an open-dialogue for sharing ideas, processes and resources. It focuses on the individual craftsperson rather than on their business. Some of us run our own businesses and some of us are employed by other businesses, we will not contribute to a business' marketing strategies, but rather provide tools to the individual to help them succeed in their craft.

As a chain-reaction, we hope to become a source for people looking for apprenticeships, jobs or internships where and if applicable. For consumers looking for legitimate bespoke experiences, this should help immensely as all members that will be a part of this association will all be listed with their backgrounds, experiences and expertise. For companies that have no affiliation whatsoever, but want to be involved, they would have to be extremely transparent about what their 'bespoke' offerings are and will be voted to join the board according to their legitimacy (keeping in mind that it will not be businesses that can participate, but their tailors, individually). That way, for those that claim bespoke, but have no affiliation with the association. With this, the idea is that red flags will be more easily detectable for anyone that is a consumer, trying to weed out what is falsely advertised.

This isn't a 'cool kid' club, it's not about picking and choosing who can be a member, but more of an essential tool for anyone that is a craftsperson to be spotlighted in a city of businesses that advertise what they are not. There are many talented tailors in Toronto, but they operate silently from their homes or are employed by businesses that hide them.

I don't know how successful this group will be as it will only survive if everyone contributes to it equally. But for now, we are in talks of a second gathering and it will be including many more people. The last association fell apart about 25 years ago and lasted only a year. That association was meant to market bespoke tailors and it was competition amongst its members that ended up being the cause for its dissolution.

Our website will be coming soon, which will be listing all members. But for those of you that are active, the Instagram account is currently @toronto_tailors_assn

Obviously the focus will be on bespoke pieces, but will sources for alterations (or members that will tackle them) be on this list?
 

KWang94

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Trying to find a list of bespoke tailors in Toronto has been a big struggle on this thread since I started on StyleForum back in 2017. When I began looking for apprenticeships some ten years ago, I was frustrated by the lack of an index or contact sheet that could point me in the right direction. I sent e-mails to a list of different tailors from the Asociacion Española de Sastreria (AES)... to which, of course, I never received a reply, but the idea still stuck with me all these years.

So after three years of brainstorming, and converging with a lot of skepticism, I was finally able to get a group of individuals together yesterday to initiate what will hopefully become a society, board, or authority of bespoke tailors right here in Toronto (moreso Ontario). Call it what you will.

The focus will mostly be an open-dialogue for sharing ideas, processes and resources. It focuses on the individual craftsperson rather than on their business. Some of us run our own businesses and some of us are employed by other businesses, we will not contribute to a business' marketing strategies, but rather provide tools to the individual to help them succeed in their craft.

As a chain-reaction, we hope to become a source for people looking for apprenticeships, jobs or internships where and if applicable. For consumers looking for legitimate bespoke experiences, this should help immensely as all members that will be a part of this association will all be listed with their backgrounds, experiences and expertise. For companies that have no affiliation whatsoever, but want to be involved, they would have to be extremely transparent about what their 'bespoke' offerings are and will be voted to join the board according to their legitimacy (keeping in mind that it will not be businesses that can participate, but their tailors, individually). That way, for those that claim bespoke, but have no affiliation with the association. With this, the idea is that red flags will be more easily detectable for anyone that is a consumer, trying to weed out what is falsely advertised.

This isn't a 'cool kid' club, it's not about picking and choosing who can be a member, but more of an essential tool for anyone that is a craftsperson to be spotlighted in a city of businesses that advertise what they are not. There are many talented tailors in Toronto, but they operate silently from their homes or are employed by businesses that hide them.

I don't know how successful this group will be as it will only survive if everyone contributes to it equally. But for now, we are in talks of a second gathering and it will be including many more people. The last association fell apart about 25 years ago and lasted only a year. That association was meant to market bespoke tailors and it was competition amongst its members that ended up being the cause for its dissolution.

Our website will be coming soon, which will be listing all members. But for those of you that are active, the Instagram account is currently @toronto_tailors_assn

I've been vocal with you about how much I love this so not much to add. Even though I'm just a regular ass dude, I'm happy to help however I can if you ever need me, Timothy
 

Ranjeev

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Nick's Shoe Repair (now consolidated with Novelty, but Nick's cobbler is still employed by the new store) now charges ~$100 tax in for flush Lulu toe plates, but more importantly they still do them.
Is this the new going rate? If that is for just toe plates, that seems expensive but its been a couple of years since I needed this service. I've got 10+ pairs that need to get toe plates and/or rubber sole guards.
 

othertravel

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There's a new coupon code for Harry Rosen.

Extra $25 off sales items worth at least $250.

Code is BING25

Also, great idea, Tim.
 

burgerkong

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Is this the new going rate? If that is for just toe plates, that seems expensive but its been a couple of years since I needed this service. I've got 10+ pairs that need to get toe plates and/or rubber sole guards.

Yeah, it went up. I think a few years back it used to be $65-ish? I don't know of another local-ish cobbler that can do them without resorting to mailing the pairs out.
 

TimothyF

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Robert Jones did my toe plate fix through a nearby cobbler. $35. I don't know if it is subsidized lol

Not flush, but steel plates nonetheless. I don't really notice any bad effect on my walk, so I don't really care.
 

suitforcourt

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Is this the new going rate? If that is for just toe plates, that seems expensive but its been a couple of years since I needed this service. I've got 10+ pairs that need to get toe plates and/or rubber sole guards.

Pablo Hadarits at Dimar in Guelph is doing 2 pairs for me right now. $110 for flush toe plates and sole guards.

If you want, I'm visiting him again sometime in February. We can meet up and I can drop them off for you.

Check out the separate thread I created for the shop.
 
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Hello my fellow Torontonians, may I get a quick fit check please.

I just received this Lardini suit today, I feel like the should is a bit off. It does not look that bad from the front but it is easy to spot from the side. Is this the shoulder divot that people terrifying about? I did not have such problem with a Lardini blazer and all other suits that I own. Thanks in advance!
Screen-Shot-2023-02-11-at-10.56.27-PM.jpg


Screen-Shot-2023-02-11-at-10.56.33-PM.jpg

Screen-Shot-2023-02-11-at-10.56.40-PM_1.jpg
Screen-Shot-2023-02-11-at-10.56.50-PM_1.jpg
 

induere_to

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Spent some more time yesterday to continue dismantling a Cesare Attolini suit I started several months back. The suit was covered in moth holes and a good customer and dear friend of mine handed me numerous items for me to do with as I please. So, for my own education, and I suppose now yours, I took it apart to document what I find:

DB5982A5-4515-4FF9-A11C-26D7EE0F13BD.jpeg


Before I open up the cuff to comment on it's construction, I have to figure out it numerous hands had touched it, I could take it apart and check, but the other, easier way to find out if another tailor had altered it from it's original state is by seeing if the sleeve buttonholes match the front... these, do not. Although I'm impressed that they are still done by hand:

6EE6D6E8-ADA1-4F91-8B51-0FAB95AB863F.jpeg


As I opened the cuff, I found traces of the original condition, which displayed some hand felling for the lining. This latest alteration, however, had been sealed by machine. Fortunately, the sleeve cuff was canvassed and not fused, which is far more common:

0B5FD9E7-9635-4814-842A-4DD3F35D5507.jpeg


After unraveling the cuff, I wanted to see the remaining construction of the sleeve, so I proceeded at the shoulder, where I exposed the 3/4" shoulder pad and domette sleevehead:

5F3EF1D1-89A6-4DCC-AC57-6A7F412D110E.jpeg


After removing the sleevehead and the shoulder pad. You can see the shouler seam, taped for durability, along with the armhole, hidden among the mess:

BCF1CBEC-2EB0-45B4-B875-0551AFF58415.jpeg


Fully removed sleeve and lining:

06D77F0A-21AA-4F5A-8E40-69664701BD40.jpeg


Lining is machine basted to the outseam of the sleeve... very similar to how I was taught, only I was taught to also baste the inseam as well and by hand:

44EA2CD6-F488-45B9-8B01-2FA490DB634B.jpeg


Interior construction, I only detached along the inseam because the backseam is raised and top-stitched for durability and it would be time-consuming taking it apart:

48CD0A0C-EDC5-4C7E-84B7-543E65F8172E.jpeg


Exterior construction:

6F40B5C9-5228-4436-B1D9-9B521D3E99D1.jpeg


Shoulder construction without the sleeve and sleevehead:

D2BDD230-002C-4F3A-B31F-ABF17C5EB7DA.jpeg


Taking apart the shoulder, raised seam, taped and top-stitched down:

22B15E9F-B911-4E8B-8951-AF1D85197265.jpeg


Exposed front, with side body, still attached to the back panel:

24768797-DC9E-4DF9-AA4A-674F57E31D85.jpeg


Taking apart the side seam, which was also raised... but weirdly, the top-stitching didn't go through both panels. This could be an effort to make alterations easier, but to me, it's disappointing because it just means they did it for show:

0AED6824-FF8A-402D-BA14-5B7841F14A15.jpeg


Getting closer to the important stuff:

73CA296E-B39B-4471-BE32-59CA8AEA25EF.jpeg


Flipped the facing to the other side to expose the canvass and the anatomy of the jacket. Completely padded by machine canvas and domette:

3C67464B-7E5B-4EB1-A21B-93BC6A0E9772.jpeg


Bridle only is attached (by machine) halfway down the lapel crease line, which I found interesting. I'm guessing it's Attolini's way of maintaining a more flexible lapel roll, and only shaping the top half of the chest. Additionally dissappointed to see the lapels padded by machine:

E7875956-8AA7-4F15-A5FE-D45C0804542D.jpeg


Even worse, the edge tape is also all blindstitched into place:

78210326-A206-4D84-AF4F-E369D68B7DAE.jpeg


I'm currently working on a suit for myself that will be made entirely by myself and my next step is attaching the facing to the front, so this next disassembly was what I was most interested in examining:

90B71953-3639-446C-AADE-7950D97530C5.jpeg


So far, that's everything that I took apart yesterday, there is still more to look at, maybe I'll take apart the pockets next. But as far as yesterday goes, sleeve, shoulder, facing and front quarter is what I managed to expose.

2EBAA7BB-7563-460A-A4CD-DB6F777DB383.jpeg


I was curious how much the customer paid for the suit, so I sent him a message inquiring and he has not yet gotten back to me. I wanted to try to contemplate whether or not I thought the price was worth it. But, to each their own. People will find value in things because it all interests us individually differently. Attolini is a name that people in the tailoring world will recognize, the founder of the shop is the father of Neapolitan tailoring for what it is today. I should emphasize also that this is a ready-to-wear garment and not a made to measure or bespoke garment, which I'm sure is made entirely differently. If anyone is willing to provide an Attolini bespoke or mtm garment, I'd be willing to take it apart and compare.

Although I don't know the price range for Attolini, I can estimate its pricetag and I can estimate what I would personally value this garment at. It's a garment that is done by machine and finished by hand, and I know where my garments lie in comparison. Maybe I'll get there one day, but you guys can contemplate this for yourselves.

Now, if anyone is wondering what a 'fatto a mano' garment looks like, (however in this case, it would be more 'hecho a mano', because this tailor is from Spain) I'm going to include this following picture. I have looked up to this tailor since the days before I worked at Spier and thanks to social media, dialogue can easily be exchanged with these guys. At Pitti, a gentleman recognized me and introduced himself to me. He's followed me on social media since way before I became an apprentice, and he was impressed that I spoke fluent Spanish. I asked where he was from, he told me Sevilla. My immediate reaction was to ask if he knew Luis Herrera, the tailor that made the following garment; as it turns out, he's not only a customer but they're great friends. I recently asked him how much this tailor charges for an entry-level suit and the response was pretty shocking...

Anyways, do admire:

01C63B0F-EA6D-4B77-A9B0-F496707CDB19.png


With all of that, I guess I could leave discussion open for people to contribute their thoughts and opinions and ultimately, what do you think the retail value is of either of these garments, and of those conclusions, which would make the most sense to add to you wardrobe collections?

---------------------

In the future, I'd like to dismantle other companies' garments as well, so if anyone has clothing they'd be willing to donate, feel free to send me a message. I was promised a care package from a friend in Minnesota which should include Oxxford and Cuccinelli among other things. I'm absolutely dying to get my hands on that Cuccinelli. It's older, unfortunately, because that means it'll be better than what it is now... which, after a recent discussion with a former Cuccinelli employee, the best you'll find from them now is a half-canvas garment.
 

Jaggery

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Your descriptions of what we're looking at add value beyond the vague impressions a casual observer might take away from the photos alone. I very rarely very suits, so I'm not in the best position to comment on pricing or to knowledgeably say where I'd want to see handwork prioritized. But if this is going to be the start of a teardown series, perhaps it would be of interest to potential clients (and others who are curious) beyond the readership of the Toronto thread!
 
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hysteria

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How much does it typically cost for shirt sleeve shortening?
Any good spots you'd recommend?
 

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