goatamous II
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I think the trickiest part of denim is nailing down the fit. I would suggest going for sanforized denim, meaning that most of the shrink has already been taken out.
Like with most clothing item, the tag size doesn't mean much. Really pay attention to the measurements provided as its harder to "tailor" denim than say a pair of dress trousers. When i bought my Momotaro and Onis, I was fortunate to have been in Tokyo and was able to try them on in person. Can't even remember how many pairs of W33/34 i tried on before finding a pair that fit right.
The last thing to take into consideration is getting them hemmed. Most raw denim will come with a chained stitched hem but with a super long inseam (i believe default N&F is 36'). Most places offer hemming with a chain stitch but then that means no returns. I think there's a few local places in Toronto that offer it, i think Dutil might be one of them. somethign to keep in mind.
I can't recommend this enough
the challenge is finding the fit and quality in one
I'm a huge fan of Flathead and enjoy their fits
I love Iron Heart as well, though their baggier / straight legs suit me better than their slimmer jeans
I had Dior jeans once upon a time. some of my best fitting jeans, but the quality isn't much better than H&M
APC New Standard are probably some of the most universal jeans for fitting body types, but the stretching phase is a disaster and they're not going to last all that often