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goatamous II

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I think the trickiest part of denim is nailing down the fit. I would suggest going for sanforized denim, meaning that most of the shrink has already been taken out.

Like with most clothing item, the tag size doesn't mean much. Really pay attention to the measurements provided as its harder to "tailor" denim than say a pair of dress trousers. When i bought my Momotaro and Onis, I was fortunate to have been in Tokyo and was able to try them on in person. Can't even remember how many pairs of W33/34 i tried on before finding a pair that fit right.

The last thing to take into consideration is getting them hemmed. Most raw denim will come with a chained stitched hem but with a super long inseam (i believe default N&F is 36'). Most places offer hemming with a chain stitch but then that means no returns. I think there's a few local places in Toronto that offer it, i think Dutil might be one of them. somethign to keep in mind.


I can't recommend this enough
the challenge is finding the fit and quality in one

I'm a huge fan of Flathead and enjoy their fits
I love Iron Heart as well, though their baggier / straight legs suit me better than their slimmer jeans

I had Dior jeans once upon a time. some of my best fitting jeans, but the quality isn't much better than H&M

APC New Standard are probably some of the most universal jeans for fitting body types, but the stretching phase is a disaster and they're not going to last all that often
 

maebach

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Has anyone tried jeans from United Stock Dry Goods?
Yes. You can sometimes find their stuff on sale for like $70 which is good value. Also Japanese denim, but my guess is it’s lower quality. Regular price is like $150+. I have 2 pairs. First pair of black I put in the wash and they came out super faded. I don’t think i turned them inside out, which is my fault, but still, $150 jeans shouldn’t fade that fast...

I have a pair of dark blue that I’m scared to wash now.
I like that they’re made in Canada. Quality seems good but I’ve never purchased the Japanese brands you guys have mentioned. Laos don’t have N&F so can’t compare.
 

suitforcourt

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Yes. You can sometimes find their stuff on sale for like $70 which is good value. Also Japanese denim, but my guess is it’s lower quality. Regular price is like $150+. I have 2 pairs. First pair of black I put in the wash and they came out super faded. I don’t think i turned them inside out, which is my fault, but still, $150 jeans shouldn’t fade that fast...

I have a pair of dark blue that I’m scared to wash now.
I like that they’re made in Canada. Quality seems good but I’ve never purchased the Japanese brands you guys have mentioned. Laos don’t have N&F so can’t compare.

They have a sale going now (49 to 69) but of course my size is sold out.
 

KaleidoscopicK

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I think I can count the number of times I've worn jeans in the past three years with two hands - I just don't find them appealing to wear anymore. I've been tempted by a couple of things here and there - like Kapital's century denim - but the thought of spending lots of time on finding a good fitting pair deters me.

It's nice to see people recommending some quality denim makers, though!

We have a few, but they're more like small boutiques and tailors. Most well-dressed Torontonians, in my experience, are either wearing designer, vintage, or clothes from trips to Europe.

Yeah, when I was more interested in CM a few years ago, I did a look-up on CM-leaning, multi-brand menswear stores in Toronto a few years ago and realized that we have quite a few. I don't think the landscape has changed much, other than the odd store closing here and there.

Many of them either don't resonate with me in the same way that other international shops like Brio, The Armoury or No Man Walks Alone do, don't carry the brands I'd truly want to wear in my preferred price ranges, or both. I had to go to New York City to buy Camoshita, Antonio Ciongoli-era Eidos and Crockett & Jones. Of the CM-leaning shops, I think Leatherfoot did it best for me in terms of presence and brand selection while it was around, as well as another (now closed) boutique in Parkdale whose name I can't recall at the moment. I do think there are a couple of good shops both in Toronto and further west, however.

I think some of these CM shops would benefit from broadening and improving their casual offerings, but that's another conversation.
 
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suitforcourt

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I think I can count the number of times I've worn jeans in the past three years with two hands - I just don't find them appealing to wear anymore. I've been tempted by a couple of things here and there - like Kapital's century denim - but the thought of spending lots of time on finding a good fitting pair deters me.

It's nice to see people recommending some quality denim makers, though!



Yeah, when I was more interested in CM a few years ago, I did a look-up on CM-leaning, multi-brand menswear stores in Toronto a few years ago and realized that we have quite a few. I don't think the landscape has changed much, other than the odd store closing here and there.

Many of them either don't resonate with me in the same way that other international shops like Brio, The Armoury or No Man Walks Alone do, don't carry the brands I'd truly want to wear in my preferred price ranges, or both. I had to go to New York City to buy Camoshita, Antonio Ciongoli-era Eidos and Crockett & Jones. Of the CM-leaning shops, I think Leatherfoot did it best for me in terms of presence and brand selection while it was around, as well as another (now closed) boutique in Parkdale whose name I can't recall at the moment. I do think there are a couple of good shops both in Toronto and further west, however.

I think some of these CM shops would benefit from broadening and improving their casual offerings, but that's another conversation.

What does "CM" stand for?
 

Jamesbond1

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For someone who wears jeans more than suits or dress pants viapana in Toronto is the only way to do it. Top notch denim choices with detailed manufacturing made for you to fit you. If you don’t care for name tags but do want your jeans to fit you perfectly. I wanted a 13.5 inch front rise with a perfect fit so Ben was my choice. Going to get a second jeans made as soon as our government decides what they want to do here. $350.00 was what I paid for top notch Japanese denim.
 

suitforcourt

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suitforcourt

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I think the trickiest part of denim is nailing down the fit. I would suggest going for sanforized denim, meaning that most of the shrink has already been taken out.

Like with most clothing item, the tag size doesn't mean much. Really pay attention to the measurements provided as its harder to "tailor" denim than say a pair of dress trousers. When i bought my Momotaro and Onis, I was fortunate to have been in Tokyo and was able to try them on in person. Can't even remember how many pairs of W33/34 i tried on before finding a pair that fit right.

The last thing to take into consideration is getting them hemmed. Most raw denim will come with a chained stitched hem but with a super long inseam (i believe default N&F is 36'). Most places offer hemming with a chain stitch but then that means no returns. I think there's a few local places in Toronto that offer it, i think Dutil might be one of them. somethign to keep in mind.

Thanks for this advice. I'm reading as much as I can about selvedge... a whole new world for me.
 

suitforcourt

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For someone who wears jeans more than suits or dress pants viapana in Toronto is the only way to do it. Top notch denim choices with detailed manufacturing made for you to fit you. If you don’t care for name tags but do want your jeans to fit you perfectly. I wanted a 13.5 inch front rise with a perfect fit so Ben was my choice. Going to get a second jeans made as soon as our government decides what they want to do here. $350.00 was what I paid for top notch Japanese denim.

For $350, that is a really great value. I will contact Ben. I will also bring in some current pairs so that he can tailor a few things.
 

goatamous II

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@suitforcourt i know it's not typical Styleforum fashion
Gap selvedge is $37 (use code BIGSALE)
i think Indigo are around $50

 

suitforcourt

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@suitforcourt i know it's not typical Styleforum fashion
Gap selvedge is $37 (use code BIGSALE)
i think Indigo are around $50


Nothing wrong with Japanese selvedge for $55! Thanks for the heads up. I bought a pair in slim.
 

maebach

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@suitforcourt i know it's not typical Styleforum fashion
Gap selvedge is $37 (use code BIGSALE)
i think Indigo are around $50

Got some as well. Thanks.

I got an email that I got Gap cash? I think its a coupon code. Anyways, I figured Id share the code for anyone that wants it:

1611326541407.png

1611326604856.png
 

CloudLi

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Any small footer here? RM Williams sent me the wrong size, I have a pair of RM Williams Chelsea boots, craftsman, in size 5G, equivalent to US 6 wide or US 6.5. I think rather than returning it, selling it locally is easier, Asking 250 CAD cash
 

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