The Ultimate Toronto Thread

[KWang94]

Alright, so! Some of you already may know this, (those of you that follow me on instagram at least). But, on November the 19th, I handed my door key back to the shop whose basement I was working out of. So, with that, I suppose I'm no longer [technically] an apprentice. However, I still have a lot more to learn and I'm looking forward to the path ahead.


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With that conclusive step done, I can finally post publicly that I'm moving on to better things. I'm constantly told that the standards on my own interpretation of bespoke tailoring are far above industry normalcy, but I always accepted those comments as a challenge. With that being said, I'm excited to share that I'm opening up a studio/workshop, where I can try to achieve my goals and trajectories and do all that is within my power of accomplishing those impossible standards.

I've been silent responding to inquiries because I had this step in the back of my head for some time now and I'm finally able to open my bookings back up with far less obstacles for me to hurdle.


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With this move, however, there will be an increase in price as the prices at the last shop were so low I couldn’t make a living if I wanted to put all the extra handwork and time into what I felt a quality garment required.

I’m also planning on hosting an opening event sometime in the near future for anyone interested in checking out the new space. I haven’t settled on a date yet, but if you’re interested in attending, bother me about it. I was thinking some time between Christmas and the New Year… or at least before I fly out to Pitti in January.

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So freaking happy for ya, Timothy. You know I'll always be a huge fan of your work, dedication and passion. Would love to come visit the shop (you're actually closer to my work than you were before) once everything's calmed down on your end.

 

[pyunghwa]

Hello,

I recall this was covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it:

I recently placed an order from a suit from Natalino, which cost around $524. I had to pay $189 in customs and duties from DHL. The business in based in the UK, and the suit is made in Italy according to the label. I recall something about CETA but may have misunderstood. Did I get hosed? Are items made in EU exempt from customs and duties?

Thank you!

 

[BlueSteel]

Hello,

I recall this was covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it:

I recently placed an order from a suit from Natalino, which cost around $524. I had to pay $189 in customs and duties from DHL. The business in based in the UK, and the suit is made in Italy according to the label. I recall something about CETA but may have misunderstood. Did I get hosed? Are items made in EU exempt from customs and duties?

Thank you!

Wrong. Duty on men's apparel is 18% on top of provincial sales tax and GST (depends on your province). On top of all that most courier companies charge some "brokerage fee" to the package recipient as well.

Use this web app in the future...comes out pretty close - helps you know what to expect:

Estimate duty and taxes

Canada Border Services Agency Duty and Taxes Estimator

www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca

 

[mebiuspower]

UK is not part of the EU so CETA do not apply.

 

[Simon Chambers]

I know when I import clothes from ASKET I always get hit with import duties in about the same percentage. ASKET is based in Sweden.

 

[BlueSteel]

We all get hit with duty importing clothes and footwear from the EU. We are consumers - not importers.

This CETA stuff is nonsense. That is a trade agreement that applies to import/export businesses...not casual consumers who are cross-border shopping.

To qualify, you need permits, paperwork proving the origin of goods, etc.

It is not for consumers. It is for businesses.

Here are just some of the requirements for avoiding tariff/duty that no normal citizen can comply with (it is not automatically applied, and is not meant to be):

8. Imports of textile and apparel products that are eligible under the CETA Origin Quotas, as set out in Annex 5-A of the CETA Protocol on Rules of Origin and Origin Procedures, are subject to import controls under Canada’s Export and Import Permits Act. To claim the preferential tariff treatment for these goods, importers are required to obtain an import permit and complete Field 26 (Special Authority) of Form B3-3, Canada Customs Coding Form, with P.C. number: 17-1124.

9. For more information concerning CETA Origin Quota Textiles and Apparel products and associated permit requirements, consult Notice to Importers Serial No. 899 Textiles and Apparel for Import to Canada from the European Union and its Member States (Items 86.98 and 86.99 on Canada’s Import Control List) published on the Global Affairs Canada website.

Proof of Origin
10. The required proof of origin is a statement and is referred to in the CETA as the Origin Declaration. The Origin Declaration and the various languages in which it may be completed are contained in Annex 2 of the Protocol on Rules of Origin and Origin Procedures. This Origin Declaration may be provided on an invoice or any other commercial document that describes the originating product in sufficient detail to enable its identification.

11. In order to claim the preferential tariff treatment accorded under the CETA, importers must have in their possession the Origin Declaration completed by the exporter in the EU country or other CETA beneficiary of export, as well as any necessary permits referred to in paragraph 8.

 

[rwtc]

Lots of misinformation here. Hasn’t been this lively for a long time.

 

[itsmylocker]

We all get hit with duty importing clothes and footwear from the EU. We are consumers - not importers.

This CETA stuff is nonsense. That is a trade agreement that applies to import/export businesses...not casual consumers who are cross-border shopping.

To qualify, you need permits, paperwork proving the origin of goods, etc.

It is not for consumers. It is for businesses.

The fact a putative free trade agreement was drafted to basically make sure consumers derived no direct benefit is ludicrous. But yeah - we’re all still saddled with duties.

 

[scatterbrain]

Got an email just now that Robert Jones Menswear is closing for good.

Thanks for letting us know. They have a lot of beautiful stuff in that shop, most of which is out of my price range. But at 50% off, I'll check it out!

As an aside, I started this thread a long time ago. It's so great to see how active it remains. I have around 300 pages to peruse after stepping off the forum for a bit.

 

[Ed13]

The vast majority of my clothes (other than some streetwear) is from Robert Jones. Went the first time to the store to order a pair of Edward Green shoes seven years ago and have not bothered to go anywhere else since. Sad to see Ken, Marylou and Phillip retire. Everyone there has been great to deal with over the years. Good for them that they can go on to the next phase of their lives.

The store never looked too busy since Ken would try to roughly slot times for customers so he could focus on their needs. I would get a call when new items arrived that he thought I would like. I would arrange a time when I would stop by. Old school way of doing business that I greatly appreciated.

When told about retirement I ordered a suit, sports jacket and two blazers to be made. Agree that inventory has been picked over but still lots of interesting stuff. Stopped by to pick up a suit that was being altered last Thursday and ended up buying 3 more suits, two sports jackets, tux jacket, another winter jacket (6 total this month), more dress shirts raising total to around 20 as back ups. Was not expecting to buy anything that day but it turns out they are still pulling items out of their storage. Good for the items I got but not great for bank account. Willing to purchase so much to avoid having to find other stores I will be happy with. My prior experience with other menswear retailers around Toronto was not great.

Feel lucky I have a plethora of beautiful pieces in my wardrobe to last many, many years.

 

[mebiuspower]

My prior experience with other menswear retailers around Toronto was not great.

We are a world class city™ yet the average person don't know how to dress properly, nor do they really care.

I was at The Armoury and Leffot in NYC few weeks back and immediately felt like home.

 

[othertravel]

I only pay 13% (Ontario HST) for items from EU if the retailer uses DHL.

Also, UK and Canada have a provisional FTA, which should mean no duties.

 

[KWang94]

We are a world class city™ yet the average person don't know how to dress properly, nor do they really care.

I was at The Armoury and Leffot in NYC few weeks back and immediately felt like home.

To be fair, we had Leatherfoot, which I honestly believe was one of the most gorgeous menswear stores at the time (tied with Charvet, in my mind). But then they closed. I know people had issues with staff there but they had some really freaking good products/sales.

 

[Simon Chambers]

I only pay 13% (Ontario HST) for items from EU if the retailer uses DHL.

Also, UK and Canada have a provisional FTA, which should mean no duties.

ASKET always uses DHL, and I pay substantial import fees.

 

[Viral]

We are a world class city™ yet the average person don't know how to dress properly, nor do they really care.

I was at The Armoury and Leffot in NYC few weeks back and immediately felt like home.

Lol……because you say so?