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The Ultimate Toronto Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by scatterbrain, Dec 29, 2014.

  1. nqtri

    nqtri Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 23, 2015
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Came across this shoemaker called Matthew Dack with history dated back to 1834 and based in Toronto. Wonder if anyone has a chance to try our their offerings yet?

    http://www.matthewdack.com/new/

    Update: Actually this name rings a bell. I remember talking to a Loake & Cheaney store owner in downtown Toronto and he mentioned that he used to work for a Canadian shoemaker which was a sub-brand of Church. "Dack" sounds like what he said.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  2. Spex

    Spex Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I remember Ivor of Woolridge Shoes telling me the same thing, and I've read about Dack's in the past. Depending on who makes them, then the prices might be reasonable, and there's even a clearance section on their website, if you're lucky enough to find something you like in your size.
     
  3. RaggedyDandy

    RaggedyDandy Senior member

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    Dec 19, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto
    

    I own a pair of Dack's oxfords which were likely from the very tail end of their inventory of the previous incarnation. They've held up extremely well since 2007 and have broken in marvellously. Hands down my favourite pair of shoes. Don't know what that means for the new lineup though.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
  4. Wrenkin

    Wrenkin Senior member

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    Dec 16, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    There is a Dack's shoe thread for questions about the old B&M store and the new online business. The current incarnation was started by a family member. I ordered some of the sale oxfords (returned because I needed a G-fitting) and they were quite nice. They appear to be Cheaney's, so you're getting your money's worth.
     
  5. nqtri

    nqtri Senior member

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    Mar 23, 2015
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I've sent my question to the contact page of the current Dack's online store and was told:

    " Our shoes are as well made as Church’s, but are a much better value. They are made in England by the same manufacturer (a former Church’s subsidiary) who made them for Dack’s Shoes Limited from 1999 (when the New Brunswick plant closed after Prada acquired Church’s Footwear) until their bankruptcy in 2009. We acquired the brand after the bankruptcy and have been working with the same English factory ever since, and it is not Loake. Although Loake says their shoes are made in England, the uppers are made in third world countries and only stitched to the sole in England. Our shoes are entirely made in England.

    The only way to really appreciate our quality is to buy a pair. If you decide to purchase a pair from us, keep in mind that purchases on our webstore are risk free. If the shoes do not fit, or are not to your entire satisfaction, you can return them for a refund or an exchange. Shipping and returns are free and easy, the return label is in the box the shoes are shipped in."

    Sounds like it's worth a try especially for the clearance section. I like how it's in CAD and it's free shipping.
     
  6. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Sounds like they're being pretty open/honest about it all (though the chip on the shoulder comes through in the message)
     
  7. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto
    Has anybody had a Toronto alterations tailor take pleats out of pants? My tailor doesn't want to do it, but I have a pair of pants that has two old-timey pleats, and I hate the pleats. Fabric is nice as all hell, though. Gladson.
     
  8. Chambertin

    Chambertin Senior member

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    Mar 12, 2014
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I can't say I've had that alteration done before. I've just embraced the pleats.

    I also just noticed you have the same measurements as I do, right down to arm length. I think your feet are slightly larger but luckily I take the same size as RogerP!!
    Hopefully you're not a lawyer too!
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    That I am.

    My wallet is relieved I am not the same size as @RogerP , or I would be bankrupt and possibly divorced from buying all of his kick-ass boots.

    Has anybody had pleats successfully removed by an alterations tailor? @TRINI , @Master-Classter
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  10. Omega Man

    Omega Man Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto
    I don't think you can take the pleats out. It will completely alter the dimensions and the tailor will need to re-cut your pants..
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. stanchri

    stanchri Senior member

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    Aug 4, 2014
    Location:
    Munich
    I've tried to do this last year, but I wasn't able to find someone that would do the job. They were the pants from a Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece suit. BB said they wouldn't do it as the results wouldn't be remotely close to expectations. I learned that it is a much tougher job than it seems to us non-tailors. At the end of the day it comes down to fully remaking the pants, which will be expensive regardless of the outcome.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Location:
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    Yep, I concur. I haven't tried the operation myself but would imagine it's actually quite a bit more complicated than it seems and would alter the fit of the pants. It's in the main area where the shape affects fit. Not like you're hemming or tapering a leg. Don't know if it would work but could try getting the pleats just stitched flat, effectively making them flat front pants. And to be honest, in my earlier SF days, I had things hemmed with no break and all flat front but in recent years have gone back to some break and a single pleat (not double) since I find it makes pants way more comfortable. I think there's such a strong aversion to the double pleated baggy 90's pants that we've tended to err on the side of being a little too slim and even that looks as poorly thought out as the thing we're running from. I have one pair of pants that I loved the fabric and were just too loose on me and had them tailored quite a bit and the result? Well the fabric's still lovely but they never really quite fit right and I know it. Better than average Joe, but not as good as my other pairs. So either iron out part of the pleats, try tacking/stitching them flat, or just embrace and live with it. If you take them in from the outseams or back, the pleats will flair out. If you try to take away the pleats, you have to take off the waistband, take out extra fabric from the sides, right at the pockets, then reattach the pockets, sides, waistband, etc, all without your body being present and then hope it fits you nicely in a prominent/visible area... So I'd say don't do it. Just wear them as is or try something simple like the ironing/tacking above that can be undone etc.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Same. I've had suits with double pleats in the past and as long as they're not baggy in the upper thigh area, I was able to live with them.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. spiermackay

    spiermackay Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Location:
    Toronto, CA
    Removing the pleat is very difficult. To make the pleat in the first place the waist of the panel is cut larger to accommodate the pleat and this is tapered down the leg to the vanishing point of the pleat. Most pleats are 1/2" depth. It may be possible to diminish shallower depths, like 1/4" pleats, but it will still be noticeable. Best thing is to leave the pleat and embrace it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  15. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Xavier can do it.
     
  16. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Senior member

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    Toronto
    I'd just forget it and move on... You're savvy enough of a member to know when to "cut your losses". How did you wind up with this anyways? Its it a 10 year old suit? Or a B&S/eBay score you are trying to make work?
     
  17. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    I think some RL Polo suits still come double-pleated.
     
  18. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    There's nothing wrong with pleats. If done right.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  19. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Nothing wrong with pleats. On contrary, if applied to the right cut of pants (higher rise) they actually drape better, because cloth more naturally "hangs" from one's waist. This has the result of additional "slimming factor", in my experience.
    If you are in for more modern. lower rise look, then no pleats.
     

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