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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I love the way that stitching looks - almost imperceptibly irregular to feel hand-made, yet so almost-perfect it shouts quality. Lovely.
     
  2. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    deleted
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
    2 people like this.
  3. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I've never seen a similar cap construction so I figured this one would find its place on this thread. Made by Riccardo Borella.

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    1 person likes this.
  4. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    [​IMG]
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    Petkov, red brown calf.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Right shoe eyelet closing looks a bit off IMO.
     
  6. jordong

    jordong Active Member

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    I have a new pair of Hellstern's the look recent. Are they still making new men's shoes? Was not able to find anything on the net.
     
  7. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    #4 shell/ HIppo from Cleverley.

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    5 people like this.
  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    ^Unique mix of oily shine and matte gruffness, wear them in health! What will you pair these with?
     
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Thank you! I'll wear with odd trousers and chinos. Pretty casual shoe.
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow! love the shape too.

    ....I would think the #4 shell is even more scarce than hippo hides....
     
  11. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    I am thinking of having a Devon shoe made by Cleverley for my next commission:

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    Love the look but not sure about the practicality of the tobacco suede. Thoughts?

    Also wondering about subbing the Russian reindeer for the croc. Which would be dearer, do you think?
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Cool model Winot; by nature a spectator or two-tone shoes isn't going to be very practical....but he'll it's bespoke go with the colours that you love.
    Saying that, I'm also not a fan of that tobacco suede I would either sub it for something closer to the other tone to achieve a more subdued look or go with an even lighter and more contrasting colour.
    I believe Croc is a bit more expensive then Russia calf; not sure though (I'm sure someone will chime in).

    But he'll it's bespoke; with these kinda things I would go with something that 'you' love rather then what common sense brings you to buy (black oxford); but if you love black oxfords like me that's another matter.....
     
  13. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Nice shoe. Honestly, I think a calfskin/ croc or a calfskin/ russian makeup would be much more versatile. Just one man's opinion.

    Best
     
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I like the suede, but not in an adelaide. I'd go with an oxford instead, and reindeer instead of the croc. I don't think croc looks great on spectators; a smaller texture than scales is better. For me, croc needs to be in larger scale (oops, no pun intended) to look its best e.g. a wholecut or two eyelet derby. But a spectator with contrasting textures like suede, pingrain, even lizard, is cool in my book.

    Anyway, I guess the privilege of bespoke is letting everyone else go shoe themselves, and getting what you want. Hope it works out well, and enjoy. :)
     
  15. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    Thanks guys - interesting ideas. I'll have a muse and see what Cleverley think. Am leaning towards calf/reindeer.
     
  16. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    Not sure if that would be enough contrast for my liking. Also not sure about a GBP 4000 pair of shoes (guessing).
     
  17. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Not a pair of mine but I decided to share the pictures as there aren't many of Aubercy's bespoke pairs on SF. These have very strong lines which differ from the owner's usual orders. Perhaps some of our French members can chime in whether the pair represents Aubercy's house style.

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    Last edited: Jul 24, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  18. Romain

    Romain Senior member

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    This pair might have been done by Didier Martinez who used to be a bootmaker there but left a few years ago. Now I don't believe they have any in-house maker (afaik).

    I saw recent pictures of a Japanese bootmaker's trunk show in their shop but I don't know much more about it.

    I would not say it is representative of Aubercy's house style. I am not that familiar with their shoes but, from what I saw, it really depends on the models. I would say half way between Lobb Paris (classic British style with a sleek Parisian touch) and Berluti (some patterns are... unusual).
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2013
  19. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    New Cleverleys - calf and suede:

    [​IMG]

    (Edited to fix upload problem)
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2013
    3 people like this.
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Here's a pair I just finished...I'm fairly happy with these--lady's black Milano Adelaides with burgundy kangaroo bead. 1-1/4" Cuban heel, 8 iron outsole, welted and stitched at 11spi.

    The burgundy bead could have been a little less "in your face" prominent. On a classic English shoe the bead around the topline, for instance, would barely be visible. Very subtle. But again, on this shoe, it is an accent and these are lady's' shoes so it needed to be implemented as a design element. (click for larger pic)

    [​IMG]

    --
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2013
    5 people like this.

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