The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. Von Franz

    Von Franz Senior member

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    Thank you for your prompt and informative response.

    This sort of thing has always fascinated me, and your work demonstrates exceptional talent.
    I'm looking forward to seeing subsequent projects of yours as they emerge.

    -VF





    Edit: That sounds like an acceptance letter, or something, but I wanted to reinforce that it is in fact a sincere complement. Keep up the good work.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2011


  2. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Thank you. I get the Edelman stuff from some e-bay sellers. They buy excess hides or some such from the furniture trade; they are in NC, so presumably buying from some of the folks around High Point. In general, the Edelman leathers would definitely not be appropriate for shoes, as you note. However, the Luxe Calf is a pure veg tanned whole grain leather and is relatively firm. The tannage is definitely not the butter soft leather that would be the norm for upholstery. I have made a few pairs from it, and other shoemakers have used it as well; it seems to get pretty good reviews. Also, perhaps because of the agate glazing, the leather takes on a fantastic mirror shine. I mirror polished the toe caps of my previous pair and they really are shiny after some serious effort. I recently picked up a hide of the Cashmere Calf (for $15!), which while being veg tanned and whole grain is very much softer and stretchier. I actually like the flesh side, so I am trying it as reverse calf in a spectator. I think it does have a surface treatment, whereas the Luxe Calf doesn't seem to(?). If I were making for other folks, I probably wouldn't use the Edelman, but the Luxe Calf is a good price for a nice calfskin for learning purposes. Here is the next pair partly lasted up: [​IMG]
     


  3. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  4. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Christmas is coming, be prepared:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  5. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    it look very exciting fishball :slayer:
     


  6. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    you draw and cut the pattern?
    you sew the upper?
     


  7. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Amazing, might as well use the flesh side. That is what most suede is after all. Are you saying you bought a whole hide of Cashmere Calf for $15?!?!? It wholesales for about $10 a square foot. As to surface treatments they are almost all going to have a certain amount in the interiors trade, few clients are sophisticated enough to accept the patina that develops on leather that is simply tanned and veg dyed. Often the surface treatments are all but invisible, but there. Whatever you do, avoid 'Metallic Dream Cow' as the slightly irridescent surface finish will simpy disolve if it is touched by the solvents in a polish or alchohol.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2011


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    imo, this is a big turn off.
     


  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Shoefan,

    Vegetable tanned leather is not naturally stretchy or soft. That said, I buy some veg lining that is soft and stretchy. but it's like that because it's been "tumbled." I wonder if the Cashmere is likewise.

    Perhaps if you "toggled" the Cashmere it would benefit...especially for making shoes.
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    me want.
     


  11. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Very nice work.




    Yes, I do everything except, in this case, make the last -- though I do make those as well in other instances.



    That's what I figured. Also used the Cashmere Calf for the lining of one of the uppers, just for fun. However, given the surface treatment, probably not ultimately a good idea, since it seems pretty water resistant, which you don't want for a lining; you want it to absorb sweat from the foot.
    Yes, $15 for the hide! The seller didn't know the maker but did list it as cashmere calf, IIRC. They also showed a pic of Edelman's sticker on the leather, which I recognized. As noted earlier, I probably wouldn't use any other Edelman leather than their calfskins and perhaps their pebble grain.



    Perhaps, though this Cashmere Calf while having a soft hand didnt' seem too stretchy, particularly along the 'tight' direction. DW, have you found the Luxe Calf to be highly water resistant? I haven't noticed that.
     


  12. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Fritzl, you don't, they are chisel toe! :smarmy:
     


  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Nor I. I thought the finish was a little tiny bit fragile but beyond that I liked the Luxe leather. Could be a half ounce thicker for my druthers.
     


  14. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Thank you. The shoe is not make by me nor for me. :embar:
    I just saw them yesterday in my shoemaker shop.
    Although I like the shoes, I don't think I have a chance to wear a pair of court shoes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2011


  15. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    The shoes you make look like professional.
    You must practice many hour a day.
    Very very good. :worship:
    lt hard to do.
     


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