The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^Correct! Black shell. They fit like socks, so comfy. [​IMG] I'll post more pics in a new thread when I have some more free time, hopefully tomorrow.
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    sorry still vass looking, but i mean that in a good way

    oops, there's no vass pedigree visible for me.

    i like them and imo they represent an independent style. what do i know?
     


  3. ajv

    ajv Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I sewn the sole, finished and polished by my hands at home.


    Fishball,

    Congrats for that job,
    you beat me to it, i have something very, very, similar on order at Anthony. The last though will be the Adri2 (the red shoe).


    ^Correct! Black shell. They fit like socks, so comfy.

    [​IMG]

    I'll post more pics in a new thread when I have some more free time, hopefully tomorrow.


    They look very nice, even if like toe boxes a bit sleeker. The simplicity of this model is amazing and I admire the precision of what I can see on this picture. Please show us more.
    I've never seen such a low lacing on a "chukka" boot. Any particular reason for it ? and how well is the heel holding down when walking ? I would imagine that DWFII must have been sweating to have the instep very tight as well as the part that is just over the heel (don't know what to call it in English).

    Adrian
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    ...and how well is the heel holding down when walking ?

    i would assume this is done with the back of the boot. look at the curve, don't have the correct term handy. when i'm lazy to lace, i can wear my boots without a problem. you know how to do it right, or you don't. i suspect it wouldn't work with an english rtw product.
     


  5. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    They look very nice, even if like toe boxes a bit sleeker. The simplicity of this model is amazing and I admire the precision of what I can see on this picture. Please show us more. I've never seen such a low lacing on a "chukka" boot. Any particular reason for it ? and how well is the heel holding down when walking ? I would imagine that DWFII must have been sweating to have the instep very tight as well as the part that is just over the heel (don't know what to call it in English).
    With every fit model, I asked DW for less sleek of a toe. Now I think could have been a little sleeker, but I wanted them for wear with jeans more than with dress clothes. DW can tell you more about the lacing. I believe he based the design on an old Lobb St. James pic. Before I tried on the fit models, I thought it was slightly strange too. These are technically George boots acc. to Bengalstripe. The Sanders George model, has the lacing way higher. I haven't tried those on, but these are extremely comfortable. I wear them while motorcycling and they are high enough to protect my ankles in a fall, but the lower lacing keeps them extremely flexible for toe shifting and breaking. The height, in fact, is about as high as the AS Millers I have: [​IMG] the third boot there is the Rider Boot, RBCB1. This pic was taken after a wear or two of DW's, a few months wear of the AS's and three years for the Riders. The insteps of DW's are very snug. They really hug that area really well. The heels are quite snug. When I put my feet in the boot, they kind of "lock" into place. I think you mentioned that your Delos shoes fit so well that you can walk w/o lacing them up. These are like that too. The heel stiffener extends on both sides to the end of the quarters. The shaping and structure is a marvel. I think the part over the heel, on a person, would be called the Achilles tendon, in the back, or the ankle in general. Not sure what it'd be called on a boot. The cuff?
    i would assume this is done with the back of the boot. look at the curve, don't have the correct term handy. when i'm lazy to lace, i can wear my boots without a problem. you know how to do it right, or you don't. i suspect it wouldn't work with an english rtw product.
    I just tried it w/ the AS Millers. They aren't quite as snug as DW's but they do fit well. In DW's boots, my heels don't lift at all; in the AS's they lift a little; same is true for Rider's. Just while sitting here typing w/ DW's on my left foot and the Rider's on my left, if I left my heel up while keeping my toes on the ground, DW's boot stays glued to my heel, but my heel lifts up in the Riders. All of them fit well, but DW's are on another level. As I wrote earlier, they fit like socks, or maybe like running shoes. It's strange how I often feel like running in them and how great they feel while running. Really strange.
     


  6. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I sewn the sole, finished and polished by my hands at home.


    That is awesome Fishball

    A question:

    What insole thickness did you use and how deep did you cut the holdfast into it? Is there a standard insole thickness that bepoke makers use (when carving holdfasts from insole) or does that vary alot?

    thanks
     


  7. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Black boot stand out from the other two.
    Nice clean tidy lasting with DWF boot (it stands out most, real class),
    other two look sloppy when comparing.
     


  8. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    I sewn the sole, finished and polished by my hands at home.

    You use Delos last and pattern?
    You hand welt and last it yourself?
     


  9. ajv

    ajv Senior member

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    With every fit model, I asked DW for less sleek of a toe. Now I think could have been a little sleeker, but I wanted them for wear with jeans more than with dress clothes.

    DW can tell you more about the lacing. I believe he based the design on an old Lobb St. James pic. Before I tried on the fit models, I thought it was slightly strange too. These are technically George boots acc. to Bengalstripe. The Sanders George model, has the lacing way higher. I haven't tried those on, but these are extremely comfortable. I wear them while motorcycling and they are high enough to protect my ankles in a fall, but the lower lacing keeps them extremely flexible for toe shifting and breaking. The height, in fact, is about as high as the AS Millers I have:

    the third boot there is the Rider Boot, RBCB1. This pic was taken after a wear or two of DW's, a few months wear of the AS's and three years for the Riders.

    The insteps of DW's are very snug. They really hug that area really well. The heels are quite snug. When I put my feet in the boot, they kind of "lock" into place. I think you mentioned that your Delos shoes fit so well that you can walk w/o lacing them up. These are like that too. The heel stiffener extends on both sides to the end of the quarters. The shaping and structure is a marvel.

    I think the part over the heel, on a person, would be called the Achilles tendon, in the back, or the ankle in general. Not sure what it'd be called on a boot. The cuff?


    I just tried it w/ the AS Millers. They aren't quite as snug as DW's but they do fit well. In DW's boots, my heels don't lift at all; in the AS's they lift a little; same is true for Rider's. Just while sitting here typing w/ DW's on my left foot and the Rider's on my left, if I left my heel up while keeping my toes on the ground, DW's boot stays glued to my heel, but my heel lifts up in the Riders. All of them fit well, but DW's are on another level. As I wrote earlier, they fit like socks, or maybe like running shoes. It's strange how I often feel like running in them and how great they feel while running. Really strange.


    By looking at the first picture, I thought that DW made an excellent work, and from different discussions that I had the pleasure to have with him, I thought that a snug fitting could be one of the tricks. I just wanted confirmation of that fact, which you just provided.
    And imo, the best way to judge a shoemaker is not the style, the design but the fit, the fit and the fit.
    Don't bother too much about the sleekness, that's just a question of taste. Those boots look beautiful and I wish I could visit DW, wear them in good health...

    Adrian
     


  10. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    emptym,

    What is it under the skirt?[​IMG] [​IMG]

    DW,

    Thanks a lot.

    Last time forgot to post the sole, here you go:

    [​IMG]



    FB,

    I take my hat off to you. Great job.
     


  11. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    That is awesome Fishball

    A question:

    What insole thickness did you use and how deep did you cut the holdfast into it? Is there a standard insole thickness that bepoke makers use (when carving holdfasts from insole) or does that vary alot?

    thanks


    I think it is around 7-8oz belly, HK shoemaker prefer belly over shoulder, I don't know why. (actually I know, it is more easy to work with when inseaming). HK shoemaker don't cut "holdfast", they just cut a slot, about 2-3mm deep.

    > Is there a standard insole thickness that bepoke makers use or does that vary alot?
    I think you better ask DW or Marcell.

    Son Of Saphir,
    I wish I have Delos last and pattern. [​IMG] However, I don't.
    No, the shoe was hand welted and lasted by a shoemaker. I hand sewn the outsole.

    kolecho,
    Thank you.
     


  12. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    魚蛋

    Great job on the shoes. They look spectacular. Congratulations.
     


  13. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Black boot stand out from the other two. Nice clean tidy lasting with DWF boot (it stands out most, real class), other two look sloppy when comparing.
    Well, to be fair, the other boots have thicker, rubber soles. The AS boot even has a midsole. But it's true that DW's are very clean and beautiful.
    By looking at the first picture, I thought that DW made an excellent work, and from different discussions that I had the pleasure to have with him, I thought that a snug fitting could be one of the tricks. I just wanted confirmation of that fact, which you just provided. And imo, the best way to judge a shoemaker is not the style, the design but the fit, the fit and the fit. Don't bother too much about the sleekness, that's just a question of taste. Those boots look beautiful and I wish I could visit DW, wear them in good health...
    Thanks. Someday, I'd like to take a course w/ DW.
     


  14. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Thanks. Someday, I'd like to take a course w/ DW.
    I would like to take a course w/ DW too.
     


  15. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    魚蛋

    Great job on the shoes. They look spectacular. Congratulations.


    Thanks, Gazman. [​IMG]
     


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