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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

j ingevaldsson

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It's not technically bespoke but think that this thread is most suited. Spent the week in Northampton, and among other things visited the Crockett & Jones factory. In their showroom they a bunch of old shoes as well, some very fine RTW models from the first half of the 1900's. But the really special ones are a series of display shoes made for an international exhibition in Turin 1911. They are completely handmade, and are among the nicest shoes I've ever seen. Very fine, clean work. Here's some pics:















 
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peppercorn78

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^^ wow, stunning! You should cross post this in the vintage shoe thread.

It's amazing how much higher the detailing standards were for factory shoes in the first half of throat century.
 

j ingevaldsson

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^^ wow, stunning! You should cross post this in the vintage shoe thread.

It's amazing how much higher the detailing standards were for factory shoes in the first half of throat century.

Yeah of course, didn't think about that, thanks! And do note that these were display shoes for the exhibition, not actual production shoes. Those from that time were very nice as well though, but not like this. But these do show what they were capable of for sure.
 
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j ingevaldsson

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Spent a week together with Daniel Wegan who runs the well renowned bespoke department of Gaziano & Girling in Northampton, following the production of a pair of austerity brogues for me. There's a walkthrough with over 130 pictures on my blog, but thought I'd share some of them here:

Pattern tested with a scrap leather upper:




The real parts marked out on the hide:




Upper closed, before lining:




Insole being prepared:




Checking toe shapes:




Welt stitching done:




Taped metal shank:




Bottom filling done, G&G uses felt for their bespoke:




Little space doing the sole stitching at the waist, to be blind welted:




Sole stitching done:




Heel building:




Edges finished:




Patina:




Will take some proper pics of the finished shoes later on.

.
 

DWFII

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I like and admire almost everything Daniel is doing. Can't think of a thing I do differently except the way I handle the heel seat.

Good looking shoes.
 

florent

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[x-post apologies]
Here is a pair of John Lobb Paris from 1983 I thrifted recently. The level of craftmanship is sick!

Unfortunately not my size...
ffffuuuu.gif






 

benjamin831

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How high are the heels on these bespoke shoes? They seem consistently taller than most RTW shoes.
 

patrickBOOTH

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The truth is this entire thread is ruse. Everybody has just been wearing women's shoes the whole time. These no such thing as bespoke shoes!
 

Michael Ay329

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Clifford Roberts Black Coffee calf
I like mixing brogueing with handsewn aprons
 
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mimo

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Alas I am a wide-ish 9, but what a lovely piece of work.
 

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