The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[clee1982]



New Cleverley bespoke balmorals (more details here):

Nice, so you're out of the one shoe deal

 

[David Reeves]

Welcome to the club! I have a pair of navy chelsea boots and some grey loafers coming for summer.

 

[jerrybrowne]

John Lobb St James. Fit is great as always. Still some finishing issues that I now think is part of the charm with these guys.

 

[damiance]

American Crocodile
leather finish: semi-mat, color: midnight blue.
sole: Rendenbach
shoemaker: Tadeusz Januszkiewicz ( http://www.styleforum.net/t/211250/januszkiewicz-bespoke-shoemaker-warsaw )

 

[luk-cha]

John Lobb St James. Fit is great as always. Still some finishing issues that I now think is part of the charm with these guys.

this look miles more bespoke than those cleverleys just posted :foo:

 

[johanm]

Those Lobbs are awesome - restrained and elegant.

 

[TheFoo]



this look miles more bespoke than those cleverleys just posted :foo:

How do you mean?

 

[Romain]

this look miles more bespoke than those cleverleys just posted :foo:

How do you mean?

Yes, I'm curious too.

Why do you think the Lobbs look "more bespoke" than the Cleverleys?

 

[CalzolaiFeF]

I'm curious too. Being on the other side of the shoemaking bench, I've never heard of different grades of bespoke

 

[mimo]

I think he might be suggesting impishly that slightly scruffy finishing, a rather flat polish job and a more conservative shape, give a special air of artisan authenticity. Maybe JLSJ think a mirror shine and smooth edges are for fairies.

They're both wonderful - the beautifully-finished GCs and the earnestly genuine JLs. But I have to say that blue croc wholecut will be the one I dream of tonight. Maybe I should visit Warsaw...any volunteers to interpret?

 

[ThinkDerm]



American Crocodile leather finish: semi-mat, color: midnight blue. sole: Rendenbach shoemaker: Tadeusz Januszkiewicz ( http://www.styleforum.net/t/211250/januszkiewicz-bespoke-shoemaker-warsaw )

these are great. may we see the soles and insides? nice croc used also! great last. how's the fit? pricing?

 

[TheFoo]

I don't like the straight-backed heel of the Lobbs. I think they'd look better canted.

 

[damiance]

thanks!

Today I have taken only two pictures, please give me a few days I will post more ...

cost = 2200 PLN (standard price for calf shoes at Januszkiewicz's workshop) + crocodile leathers (bought by myself. Not from shoemaker's standard offer, but he can source such)

current FX rates:
EUR/PLN=4,15
USD/PLN=3,10

 

[luk-cha]



How do you mean?

too many straight lines in the last, no curve or contours, which for me makes them look quite shapeless and very generic RTW feel to them IMO - the lobbs have a more defined shape, also look at them and compare them to the japanese bespoke shoe thread, any of the shoes in there, and id guess most of those shoes too are made for folks with flat feet too.

also i am not a fan of how they have done the side seam too, if they can do seamless then which is fine, because i know its not easy for make to do with this design, they should have hand skin stitched the inside seam, it would have given it a clean more elegant finish and would make the seam nearly invisable, but knowing clev's i am sure they fit very well

1 question, how high are those heels?

 

[TheFoo]



too many straight lines in the last, no curve or contours, which for me makes them look quite shapeless and very generic RTW feel to them IMO - the lobbs have a more defined shape, also look at them and compare them to the japanese bespoke shoe thread, any of the shoes in there, and id guess most of those shoes too are made for folks with flat feet too.

also i am not a fan of how they have done the side seam too, if they can do seamless then which is fine, because i know its not easy for make to do with this design, they should have hand skin stitched the inside seam, it would have given it a clean more elegant finish and would make the seam nearly invisable, but knowing clev's i am sure they fit very well

1 question, how high are those heels?

I don't think Asians, or Japanese people specifically, are any more likely to have flat feet. Or are they?

Interesting, your observations about the sculptedness. To my eye, the curves are definitely there--they just aren't stylized. In fact, when compared to my RTW shoes, the Cleverley pair is definitely more . . . odd. The proportions are not what would look good on a shelf.

The heel is 1 3/8 inches.