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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    +1

    I wondered...and I figured that's what you meant....

    Try to find a WWII British Battle Blouse or an Eisenhower jacket in size 42.

    I suspect it's diet, not evolution, but people are definitely bigger now.

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  2. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    ^^^ This is quite interesting. DWFII, Isshinryu or someone else, do you know anything about the width of shoes/feet back to even earlier days, like 18th, 19th century? One could assume like you say that diet, and the radical increase in wealth during the 20th century, is the explanation for the fast increase in width lately, and maybe also children's shoes shape. But before the time around 1850 or something I assume that arch support and stuff like that wasn't that good in shoes in general for the main people, and child shoes, and wonder if feet maybe was wider because of that in those earlier times.
     
  3. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    I am biased since I work with him (we organize trunkshows in Germany which he attends) but I can really recommend him. Very nice man, relaxed, but very professional and honest.
    I had my measurements taken in Frankfurt, had fitting shoes a little later in Munich and will now get the shoes delivered to Berlin. :D

    Actually, there are a few fotos of this; measurements:

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    Trial shoes (I'm on top, Benedikt/Braddock on the right, a customer on the left):

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    3 people like this.
  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Awesome and thanks for that post!

    Also, those 1-eyelet carpincho derbies are fantastic.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    You might have already seen it, but Gentleman's Gazzette did a nice write up on Ugolini a couple of years ago: http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ugolini-bespoke-shoe-review-florence/

    BTW, is he still keeping his prices as low as €1100 as starting price?
     
  6. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Senior member

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    It's around 1500€ at trunkshows in Germany, but it might be a little less ordering in Florence.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  7. thelonius

    thelonius Senior member

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    Is that all ?! I'll order two pairs then.
     
  8. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Yes; he is good by all standards, but if you factor in the price, it becomes very, very good.
     
  9. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Thanks! Yeah I like that he keeps his pricing down even if he is very well renowned.
     
  10. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I feel a bit bad for Ugolini: either the man himself isn't paying much at all to his pocket or much at all to his makers. Surely a thousand more to bespoke prices would only bring RU to the same level with most Italian masters. Mind you, artisanal wages in Italy are not the same thing as in, say, Romania or Hungary.
     
  11. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Yeah, but wages are also lower than in for example England. And he is not the only one, for example Mannina, Paolo Scafora and Antonio Meccariello offer full bespoke at prices between €1100-€1500. Seems to work.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  12. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Crosspost from "standard" shoe porn thread: Latest acquisition: a pair of seamless wholecuts from Austrian bespoke maker Maftei. Very pleased with the shoes. On my blog you'll find a substantial buyer's guide to Maftei, lots of info and with more pictures, among others from the production of these shoes. Use the translation tool in the sidebar to make it understandable.

    The shoes:

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    .
     
    9 people like this.
  13. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    I like this pair quite a lot. Shape and color. What is this leather?
    So this pair is not pegged at all? I thought Maftei has pegged sole.
     
  14. diadem

    diadem Senior member

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    ^Absolutely killer shoes.
     
  15. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Thanks! The leather is crust from D'annonay, which Maftei hand paint. Not pegged at all. They do offer pegged shoes, but also hand welted (like mine) and norvegese/goyser.


    Cheers!
     
  16. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Navy Crup from Cleverley.

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    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014
    2 people like this.
  17. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    A few more images. They have been doing something different for the footbed recently, I believe to increase arch support. Any ideas what this is?

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    1 person likes this.
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The insole is just formed up around the medial side of the instep and trimmed to create a de facto "arch-cookie." Usually the heel pad or partial sock is cut to cover it but not in this case, it appears.

    Although I have done the technique, I don't recall the name at the moment.

    There were some photos of shoes being made by Anthony Delos posted on the forum somewhere and Bengal Stripe also posted photos of the raw insole, as well. He knows the name of the technique too, I'm sure. I just can't bring it to mind.

    mmphm...:brick:

    And here's one from Masaru Okuyama

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2014
  19. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Great, thanks for the information!
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    "Up in the waist"...Duh!! I don't know why I couldn't think of it.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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