The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
     


  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That jodhpurs boots definitely shows the cowboy boot making heritage of dwfii with the heel contour and Cuban heels.
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, not really. The heel contour on a dress wellington (cowboy boot) would be nearly straight. In fact, my boots exhibit more shoemaking influence in that regard as I try very hard to add as much curvature to the heel stiffener as I can get away with and still allow the customer to get into the boots. No other bootmaker I know (unless I trained them) does that.

    As for the cuban/military heel---it's not really cowboy either. It simply comes from an earlier era when the distinctions between boots and shoes weren't so fixed in people's minds...certainly not in the mind of the maker. And "cowboy boots" almost always have straight sided heels, albeit...depending on heel height...deeply undercut.

    These kind of fashions come and go, not limited to men's or womens or boots or shoes. Who knows? maybe just seeing this pair of shoes will inspire a new wave of concave heels on SF.

    :hide:
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2013


  4. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Every village has one.
     


  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    You are most probably right. And I like those boots.

    That being said, concave boot heels probably requires a bespoke order. At least for me will sit at the very back of my project queue. Maybe one of these days I need to drive to OR and pay the makers there a visit!!
     


  6. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Concave heels/cuban heels are incredibly nice and you are starting to see this more often in bespoke. Saion and Fukaya also have a couple that are nice. I find them particularly appropriate for visible heel heights higher than 1.25". I wouldn't dream of not using them on my own shoes
     


  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is that you, Monsieur Sarkosy? :D
     


  8. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  9. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    hardcore shoe porn money shot!
     


  10. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    DWF-I had a question about the history of toe shape. When did different toe shapes start developing and what did they signify. I really dislike the square toe and chiseled toe look, and much prefer the rounded, more American and British shapes. How did shoemakers originally choose a toe shape for a client and what would it mean?
     


  11. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Shoooot. Toe shapes have been around for a very long time. Top makers have offered many different toe shapes since at least the 1800's.

    This 1891 scan from a WL Douglas catalog shows 8 variations of the square toe alone. They also had similar variations for a sleeker/ rounded toe and more variations of triangular/pointed (spade) toed shoes. In this catalog alone, WL Douglas offered that same boot in the picture in over 30 toe shape variations.

    [​IMG]

    On a side note, look at that wonderful waist and sole treatment. That would be considered top-notch today.
     


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That is crazy stuff :eek:
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013


  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Different toe shapes have been around since the year dot (or at least as long as shoemakers could manipulate the toes in order to reflect the fashion of the time).

    In the high middle-ages, toes were long and longer still.
    (The higher your social standing, the longer the toe.)

    [​IMG]
     


  14. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    isshinryu101, would you be willing to share more scans of shown catalog?
    Looks very interesting!
     


  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    muhaha
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    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


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