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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Shoefan,

    where you got the philips heel piece?
     
  2. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    I got the top lift from a shoemaker in London. I don't know if the Philips ones are still available, but I got an unbranded pack of 20 similar top lifts from a finder/grindery in London a few years ago.
     
  3. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Nah, to be Barrie you need to triple the heel width on that blank. :teach:
     
  5. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I once owned Alden's PTBs made on Barrie last. It is by far the most blob-like, shapeless and ugly last used by any decent factory out there.
     
  6. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    I asked few london shoemakers few years ago, they all told me Phillips ones are gone. Would you still remember which grindery provides similars lifts? What I got was whole lift with the leather, not just the rubbers like Philips.
     
  7. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    The ones I got were the leather/rubber combo -- i.e. it was the entire top lift, not just the rubber piece. The Philips top lifts shown above were also the entire leather/rubber top lift, not just the rubber piece. If you're still interested, I can try to recall what grinder had the unbranded variety.
     
  8. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    No need then, I have the leather/rubber combo. Thanks.
    My Philips was just rubber piece, come in a pair "together", and have to cut it to two when use.
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I pretty much only like the Tremont, Aberdeen, and Modified lasts by Alden. For full disclosure, I don't own any Aldens.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What kind of thread is used for different areas of the shoe? Is it generally synthetic?
     
  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Once upon a time it was all linen or hemp with silk being used for some upper work.

    Nylon and dacron have replaced the linen and hemp among some makers...certainly in the factories. And nylon has replaced the silk almost universally esp where a sheen is wanted, although some makers use dacron or even cotton/polyester for upper work where it is not.

    I don't know anyone using silk anymore...it is too hard to find in a form and size that will feed through a sewing machine.

    I use both dacron and hemp for inseaming and outseaming but the real limiting issue with the hemp is that it's not the quality it was during the heyday of bespoke work. The individual fibers are too short. And it must be waxed with special waxes that waterproof it and combat rot. The rosins, pitches and other materials used to make hand waxes are hard to find, much of it passing with the passing of tall ships.

    In the absence of a good handwax, linen and hemp are vulnerable to micro-organisms which cause them to rot.

    I used linen exclusively for many years but have switched to dacron for inseaming simply because it won't rot and is nearly unbreakable. Recently I've been playing with hemp coming out of eastern Europe and find it still not up to snuff but satisfactory if not as strong as dacron.

    --
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
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  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. I have heard that there are some leather care products, conditioners and such that can eat away at thread.
     
  13. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I bought a roll of glace(d) cotton thread for hand-sewing buttons and the tag mentions that the same thread is usually used to sew leather garments or shoes. It's some damn strong stuff and looks like silk thread thanks to wax finish. Having tried it out, I will never go back to any other thread for buttons.
     
  14. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  15. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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  16. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    Slightly off topic, perhaps?

    Frog in Suit
     
  17. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Does anyone here have any experience working with Dimitri Gomez...in either his bespoke or his new made-to-order offerings?
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2014
  18. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Made to order? Thought that's been around for a long time along with semi bespoke and full bespoke.

    I think lasbar has some Gomez shoes. Or it's rjman. Or some other French forum members.

    If you are truly interested, just talk to the maker directly; you won't find much info on the forum.
     
  19. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Yeah just wanted to hear people's experiences as I will be traveling to Paris soon...
     
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Steven @ Leffot has a Gomez pair.
     

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