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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    Cigar humidors are usually lined in Spanish cedar (or something akin), much like most SF'ers' shoe trees (obviously aside from lasted trees).
     


  2. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Shoe trees are made from Red Cedar which is a totally different thing, you would not want your humidor to be filled with it...
     


  3. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    ^^^
    Indeed, was merely observing that they should be fine regardless.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2013


  4. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Probably not so much the reindeer, but the age of it and conditions in which it was kept (IE: undersea).
     


  5. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    High praise from someone who knows. NOTED!
     


  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Work in progress

    Hatchgrain (faux Russian) loafers with hand-stitched apron and decorated saddle strap:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  7. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    WOW . . . . we have 2 members capable of making their own ?

     


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    More than two. Fishball and Shoefan are amateur shoe makers. DWFII is a professional posting on a non advertisement manner. There are others professional venders posting too, such as Maccariello.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013


  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Nice leather and design. Springline last?
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013


  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have never said that I make (physically) my own shoes; nevertheless I make them like a film director makes movies. I just have a team and they do the work ten times better than I ever could. The shoes are my designs: I make the standard and the sectional pattern although I have still hesitations to rough-cut from the hide. (In English bespoke, the fine cut is always done by the closer, cutting and fitting to the last.).

    See that interview what I do and what I don't do:

    http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-rolf-holzapfel-aka-bengal-stripe/

    I’ve made the loafer last myself. Well, actually that is an exaggeration as I had my last (not made by Springline) copied after temporarily augmenting the instep. Then I hacked it about, shortening the toe, nipping-in the heel, and scooping-out the top line. I’m pretty sure there won’t be any fitting problems as I haven’t changed the sole shape and I know that fits. The instep might have to be adjusted and I might fill-in the scooped-out arch of the last a bit, as to have a shoe with less arch support and therefore have the foot sitting a bit lower in the shoe.) If the whole thing should be a disaster (which I doubt), then I will scrap the exercise and take the loss. Can I be any fairer? All mistakes are my own.

    I have taught myself to make patterns. There are certain features that I aim for, like a high vamp point. But if I were to put the vamp point too high and I couldn’t get into the shoe, it again would be my problem and nobody else’s. The aesthetic choices, as far as proportions, style and materials are concerned are my own. In the case of the loafer featured, choices were somewhat limited by the hide. We had previously cut a whole-cut Chelsea boot, which had to be re-made from a different skin. There was not too much good material left, hence the design of a pieced loafer, not a whole-cut loafer.

    I do not buy into the romantic notion that the only way of making things is to make them yourself, however badly they might turn-out. Frequently people do not have the tiniest bit of critical distance when they are themselves involved. (I still believe my undergraduate essays are the cat’s whiskers. Silly me!) The net is full of dreadful things, not only shoes but everything else. I am not setting myself up as designer or design consultant. I used to say, my shoes are made by a team that has 150 years of experience in shoemaking. That is not quite true any more, as I have used another closer recently and the new one has maybe 25 years less under the belt.

    But I do hope, my stuff, two pairs a year, (which I haven't posted here for quite a while) is slightly different and challenges, if only a tiny little bit, the people that work for/with me, I like to break some rules. Well, not necessarily iconoclastic, but ever so gently.
     


  11. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    still amazing to be able to oversee the actual 'making' of what you envision

     


  12. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    An interesting design, bengal! Wear them in health!

    As for the innards, have you any special take on the shank, insole or materials?
     


  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't got them yet. I might be dead before they are finished.

    I have to make up my mind whether I want the waist 'square', 'bevelled' or 'square outside and bevelled inside'. Traditionally English "Casuals" (loafers) are made with a square waist, although quite a few firms make them bevelled these days. Decisions, decisions!


    As the shoes are English-made they will have bottoming leather by Baker and leather shanks with tar felt as filling material. All English makers use Baker, the French swear by some French tannery (can't remember the name) and the Germans/Austrians/Hungarians use Rendenbach. (No idea what the Italians swear by.) I suppose, there is a certain element of chauvinism and cultural bias involved as they all prefer the local product. I don't even have a problem with gemming, just as I don't have a problem with fused interfacing in clothing, per se.

    What I have a problem with in footwear are bonded 'backers' or glued-in linings. But that is something else and we are now reaching dangerous train-spotting territory.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013


  14. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    Tony Crack? Is this a joke?
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Why would it be a joke? AA Crack has several nice leathers that they supply to the bespoke trade. If only they would be a bit more responsive to inquiries and questions from this side of the pond. They do have a website and they do seem to want international trade...
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013


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