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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    any pictures??
     
  2. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Problem is you could only by them in size 5....
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Unfortunately no. I did ask though... :lol:
     
  4. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i'd guess the texture of the leather would be close to shark skin
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I recall correctly, yes! :D
     
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Let Isabella Rossellini demonstrate you the size of a whale penis:



    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
  7. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Let Isabella Rossellini demonstrate you the size of a whale penis:

    Amazing how she looks just like her mother in Casablanca.

    The video is hilariously bizarre.:lol:
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013
  8. sdolina

    sdolina Senior member

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    I'm thinking about next bespoke project, now a seamless wholecut with or without medallion.
    What do you guys think about impala leather for a wholecut?
    I was impressed by the structure of it, what about durability, maintenance?
    Or I better stick to calf?
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You might want to talk to your shoemaker!

    A seamless whole-cut involves a great deal of manipulations of the wet leather. Not every leather is equally suited to that task.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Even without seamless heels, I think Impala would look beautiful as a simple wholecut.
    Personally I think natural grain/textured hides looks way better than artificially textured calfskin... such as the 'Impala Calf' (shrunken calfskin with textures that resembles impala)
     
  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    as per bengals advise i dont think imparla would be doable for a seamless wholecut, my advise is stick to calf - and i have both shoes and skins
     
  12. sdolina

    sdolina Senior member

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    Many thanks. For sure I'll discuss this with shoemaker, just want independent opinion.
    Actually I was impressed by impala shoes in the nutcracker's thread. But if calf is better then i'll stick to calf.

    Luk-cha, may I ask you to post a pic of your impala leather shooz?
     
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I have to preface this with the disclaimer that I've never seen nor handled impala. But I have done a lot of "blocking" in my time and have actually blocked leather for seamless wholecuts.

    Leather manufacturing quality changes over time...seldom for the better if history is any indication. And the tannage is not the only factor in the quality of the leather--the way the animal lived and its diet ,etc., make a significant difference.

    I have worked with antelope and deer and elk and all kinds of wild animal skins. I've never been impressed with leathers from small herbivores such as deer or antelope. That may be a function of expectations in this culture and the way those leathers are tanned but most of them end up being too soft and spongy to make good shoes without additional processes like shrinking the leather. And the smaller, more vulnerable the animal the less likely the leather will be firm or dense.

    If the leather is heavily textured because it has been shrunk...like "bullhide"...the texture will not hold during any kind of deliberate stretching, such as over the toe or when blocking for a wholecut. At first glance, that can be good if you're trying to stretch it in four different dimensions at once. It means that there is surplus substance to move and conform to the contours of the last. Depending on the tannage however, the shape may not hold very well when it is made into a shoe.

    If the texture is both pronounced and natural and the leather is firm as opposed to spongy, it will make blocking the leather over a last difficult, maybe impossible...again depending on tannage.

    And of course all of this is predicated on the assumption that this "impala" really is African Antelope.

    --
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013
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  14. sdolina

    sdolina Senior member

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    Thanks again, this knowledge is exactly what you can expect from a shoemaker.
    What leather would you advise if I prefer lightly structured leather like impala - hatch grain or raindeer comes to my mind, both hardly available by Maftei.
     
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well again it depends on the tannage but a nice chrome or veg calf would probably be best. Veg tanned leather will hold its shape a bit better than chrome tannages.

    That said, I've had good luck with a veg retan water buffalo calf. It has a random hatching and texture and some of that again allows the leather to move.

    I would think that hatch grain or the raindeer might work...again, I'm a little leery of the raindeer, but I have seen some that appeared to be veg tan coming out of Sweden--Morjärvs Skinn--that I liked real well.

    I'm not saying that the impala won't work...back to the old refrain "depends on the tannage," and the way it has been "curried" and finished off. Again, I've never worked with impala.

    I'm just saying there are good reasons to know what you're getting into and to be informed.

    --
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013
  16. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1 person likes this.
  17. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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  18. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    very well, thro they are not getting much action since my retirement
     
  19. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    I agree with this - in fact I was in Cleverley today for a fitting of a pair of pigskin double monk ankle boots. I chose pigskin over pebble grain calf because I preferred the nature texture (although I have had pebble grain shoes/boots made before).

    I also bit the bullet and ordered some midnight blue stingray wholecuts (ouch on the price but I'm confident they will look amazing).

    Next commission is likely to be a pair of full brogues in the Horween cross-hatch cordovan, or maybe something based on the Cleverley Devon design (their website shows a crocodile/tobacco suede combination but might go for Russian reindeer/tan calf). Would also love a pair of chukkas made from hippo. So many possibilities - it's a good job for the bank balance that they can only make one pair at a time.
     
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  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    FAIK, hatch-grain is not natural. Especially not for the products mentioned. Shell is not naturally hatch-grain--it is a muscle sheath. Most, if not all of of the "russia calf" type hatch grain is created by folding and creasing, and tumbling (like shirts in a clothes dryer).

    Any texture that pulls out...over the toe, over the heel stiffener...during lasting is almost certain to be induced / artificial.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
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