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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Porn Thread (Bespoke only)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 3, 2010.

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  1. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah i am not in HK much now, hows things?
     
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Poorsod, have you received your G&G's back yet that Dean (or Tony) said they would do something about the cracking? Curious to see how they handle it with either a patch, or something on the inside making it invisible or something.
     
  3. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Yes I got back a few months ago. It was very impressive when they were able to achieve. I didn't see the cracks anymore. Now, after wearing it for a while, I think they look like deep creases.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2013
  4. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    which pair were these?
     
  5. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The black Austrian side laced whole cuts in baby calf.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Post pics, I am curious to see. They probably glued a piece of leather on the inside for reinforcement (I would think).
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2013
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    This was more a surface crack rather than a full thickness tear. So I don't think there is a piece of leather on the inside.

    My Corthay Bobs did have a full thickness tear/hole. B Nelson put in a patch from the inside.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah pictures please, would be great to see before and after
     
  10. meister

    meister Senior member

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    replacement should have been the order of the day but this is a point isshinryu makes about the quality of a lot of UK leather from the top brands.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Elaborate please?
     
  12. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Glove soft and supple leather on one hand is also lacking durability and requires a lot more care. Much higher rate of dryness and cracking.
     
  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Yeah the baby calf is much softer than the regular calf. Hence the fragility.
     
  14. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    It makes no sense to use leather that dries and cracks so easily. Ultra-soft should not be a way to describe shoe leather.
     
  15. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    What the bespoke shoe buyer wants the bespoke shoe buyer gets. Not everybody is looking for vintage brogues some wealthy city dwellers may just want pretty shoes for the evening etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Exactly right.
     
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  17. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    What are you talking about "vintage brogues"? Why can't "pretty shoes for the evening" be made of leather that can deal with humidity changes and actual pavement wear? Are you talking about slippers here?

    One should not have to condition shoes every time they are worn. Leather should not dry out and crack after just a few wears (as I am seeing more and more of). Besides, the job of the artisan is to educate the buyer about what he should be looking for in terms of quality. If the buyer asks for something that simply doesn't work well, the artisan should be able to explain to him why it isn't the correct thing and get him psyched up to get it done right.
     
  18. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    I am of the belief that DWFII would not make a pair of shoes or boots out of leather that is too soft to stand up to regular pavement wear. Regardless of what the buyer THINKS he wants, if he buys the gets the wrong leather and it cracks/ falls apart, the artisan should be ashamed of himself for letting it happen.
     
  19. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    These are almost 80 years old. They have been worn over 20 times. The leather is beautiful and soft/ smooth to the touch.

    [​IMG]

    There is absolutely no difference in the elegance of this leather and the overly-fragile stuff we are discussing... besides the fact that these are still going strong after such a long time.
     
  20. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    My point is that if the bespoke customer wants a shoe made from lizard skin or eel or stuff dredged from the bottom of the sea the bespoke shoemaker will make them for him not try and persuade him that "A tough calfskin will last much longer Sir".
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013

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