The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[VRaivio]

For anyone who wants to remind himself about Daniel's inspirations and favourite things, I have an old, longer interview with him in my archives. The regular link is in my forum signature.

 

[daizawaguy]

Thread in need of revival! Kiyo and Main D’Or

 

[bernoulli]

Mystery shoemaker. Boots are almost ready.

 

[clee1982]

that's a jodhpur? last looks really aggressive, definitely too narrow for me but looks good, is that actual museum or it's a patina job?

 

[bernoulli]

Yes, it is a Jodhpur. Good eye. I assume they did not send me a pic of the whole shebang as it is not ready. It is a patina job. The last is indeed aggressive, which is my reason for commissioning it. I would never be able to find that type of last for my wide but not overly long feet in RTW.

that's a jodhpur? last looks really aggressive, definitely too narrow for me but looks good, is that actual museum or it's a patina job?

 

[bernoulli]

Boots are ready. I pick it up tomorrow.

 

[clee1982]

How well does it fit?

 

[bernoulli]

They fit like a second skin. But there are still some minor issues to be fixed. The straps are so short I cannot buckle it and there is some leather bunching in the left shoe, so I will pick up the final product next week.

 

[ThinkDerm]

Boots are ready. I pick it up tomorrow.

View attachment 1592345

love the toe!

 

[DonRaphael]

Nvm.

 

[daizawaguy]

Kiyo

 

[clee1982]

looks amazing!

 

[Y.P.]

Would any SF members recognize this shoe brand? Could be bespoke, but I am not sure. At first I thought about Eric Cook, but it reads more like Jan Hook Mayfair . Thanks for your help to solve this mystery.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Perfect looking shoes. ?
How does fit compare to Main d'Or/Eiji Murata?

Me on waiting list to try new man,
he once work at Foster & Sons and Roberto Ugolini.
Mystery shoemaker.
He do trial shoe and cut it open.
View attachment 1312277 View attachment 1312278

Update

Had commissioned a bespoke shoe from a man

Resume:
- 7 years industrial shoe making experience in rtw and custom shoe firm working with the right type of people.
- 1.5 years shoe making and last making at Roberto Ugolini
- 1 year shoe making and last making at Fosters & Sons

Result:
- trial shoe fit like a box with my toes hitting all types of angles in the chisel toe shoe (horrible fit).
- no idea on how to fit a shoe and some of his website pictures did show pictures of shoes that did not sit right on the feet of some men.
- had to part ways because he had no clue how to fit me (not enough experience)

His skills:
- excellent shoe making skills
- excellent antiquing skills
- excellent lasting and closing skills
- natural talent in making a beautiful last and drawing up a well balanced pattern (one of the best)

His last making skills:
- said many things which indicated he had no idea how to fit.
- thought he knew it all and had enough experience
- my experience with his last making skills compared to a seasoned veteran in a top firm was like night and day.
- needed more experience working with the top firms

The sad decline:
- was once excited about doing great things
- 1 year later he complained he was not being supported by clients, but men were always chasing him to make a shoe
- complained he was not making enough money
- become very negative about shoe making and become childish
- walked away from it all
- did not even bother to keep in contact anymore

Would have been very good to have had a bespoke maker who lived down the road.
Dream = crashed and burned.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Update

Had commissioned a bespoke shoe from a man

Resume:
- 7 years industrial shoe making experience in rtw and custom shoe firm working with the right type of people.
- 1.5 years shoe making and last making at Roberto Ugolini
- 1 year shoe making and last making at Fosters & Sons

Result:
- trial shoe fit like a box with my toes hitting all types of angles in the chisel toe shoe (horrible fit).
- no idea on how to fit a shoe and some of his website pictures did show pictures of shoes that did not sit right on the feet of some men.
- had to part ways because he had no clue how to fit me (not enough experience)

His skills:
- excellent shoe making skills
- excellent antiquing skills
- excellent lasting and closing skills
- natural talent in making a beautiful last and drawing up a well balanced pattern (one of the best)

His last making skills:
- said many things which indicated he had no idea how to fit.
- thought he knew it all and had enough experience
- my experience with his last making skills compared to a seasoned veteran in a top firm was like night and day.
- needed more experience working with the top firms

The sad decline:
- was once excited about doing great things
- 1 year later he complained he was not being supported by clients, but men were always chasing him to make a shoe
- complained he was not making enough money
- become very negative about shoe making and become childish
- walked away from it all
- did not even bother to keep in contact anymore

Would have been very good to have had a bespoke maker who lived down the road.
Dream = crashed and burned.

Surprised he didn't pick up more of how to work with fit from Ugolini, if he indeed learned lastmaking there. Ugolini's making often leaves a lot to be desired, but he has an excellent reputation on achieving a great fit. But people have different abilities, maybe understanding feet and fit isn't this persons to master. Sounds like outworking as bottom maker would be ideal for him.