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The Ultimate Collection of Shoe Porn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by naturlaut, Jun 24, 2005.

  1. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do they have a 3-eyelet wholecut?

    Not in their regular lineup, to my knowledge, but they should be able to do it as a special order. IMMSMC, RJman had a 4-eyelet Newbury made as a special, and a 3-eyelet version would be even easier to do than a 4-eyelet version.

    Sky Valet's site consists of scans from the most recent EG catalogue, and the catalogue isn't comprehensive by any stretch of the imagination. EG must have dozens of designs in their archives that aren't included in any catalogue, and they can do special orders for any of them. I know of no comprehensive listing of everything that is available. It seems to me that EG could ignite a feeding frenzy if they just put up a list with descriptions on their website, and I know that a number of people have told Tony Gaziano so. Unfortunately, they haven't heeded the advice.

    If you don't really love Dover, then don't get it. It's one of my favorite shoes, but you'd be wearing the shoes, not me. You might want to consider one of EG's Adelaide (U-throat) models like Canterbury or Lichfield. Adelaides are a bit unusual, and I think that they make for a cleaner-looking half-brogue than the traditional design.
     
  2. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    [*]The Italian shoe makers started the trend of wide welts, so nowadays it has become hip to have a wide welt. EG has so far not succumbed to this trend.[/list]One of my 500-something posts that died with the former SF-HDD showed a comparison of EG's Ladbroke with JL's Vintage 2004. The two are rather similar, but the JL has a significantly wider welt.

    Whoa, Nelly! While the Italians certainly have done a lot to popularize the wider welt, recall that American companies did so some five to six decades ago. Florsheim is perhaps the best example, though Johnston&Murphy also had a number of wider-welt models. Witness the following:
    [​IMG]
     
  3. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    Sysdoc, the JL Sandon and C&J Cleveland are both stunning.

    ...


    agreed wholeheartedly - i thought the same thing. also really like that Newbury 606.
     
  4. Shoe-nut

    Shoe-nut Senior member

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    Los Angeles
    Whoa, Nelly! While the Italians certainly have done a lot to popularize the wider welt, recall that American companies did so some five to six decades ago. Florsheim is perhaps the best example, though Johnston&Murphy also had a number of wider-welt models. Witness the following:

    Here is an English oldie with a somewhat wide welt and a very very thick sole John McHale it be called.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    those are great! they kick doc martens' ass! (asses?)
     
  6. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    Here is an English oldie with a somewhat wide welt and a very very thick sole John McHale it be called.

    [​IMG]


    Simply gorgeous!
     
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    While the Italians certainly have done a lot to popularize the wider welt, recall that American companies did so some five to six decades ago.
    Yes and no. American men might have taken wide-welted gunboat shoes into town but English manufacturers also have used that method (although for non-business shoes).

    A wide welt (split-reverse or storm welt) has always been the standard for heavy sport and utility shoes. In a city shoe the welt was cut as narrowly as the machine operator dared. The rule, for a top quality shoe was, that looking from above on the shoe, the welt couldn't be seen.

    For many years Italian manufacturers prided themselves with the narrowest and thin-soled shoes. Added by Blake-stitched as the production method of choice, you could not only put on a very thin sole but could cut it extremely narrow.

    That all changed, maybe twenty years ago, when Italian manufacturers discovered Norwegian and similar production methods. There you need a wide-ish welt, just to accommodate the stitches riding on top of the welt. That wide welt look was copied but other manufactures as a design feature, not necessarily using labour-intensive hand stitched Norwegian construction. That look might have reached its zenith maybe ten years ago, now Italians have returned to slicker shoes.
     
  8. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    I don't know if shoe factories can offer different welt styles but in the bespoke trade many makers offers three options;
    close welt, just shown stitches and shown stitches. If not the client has any special request I make my shoes with just shown stitches.

    The way the maker control this is by adjusting the feather on the insole according to which style requested. If it only will be adjusted by cutting the welt narrow to the upper it is a risk that the sole stitches hit the inseaming tread and brake it. The feather has to be moved a coupple of millimetres towards the interior of the insole to protect the inseam and to allow the welt to "creep" underneath the insole.

    Edward Green seems to make most of their shoes close welted and John Lobb seems to like just shown stitches the best.
     
  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Two humble additions to the thread as I was snapping some pics today.

    These Alden shell cordovans are about 10 years old. They have been fully resoled once, and reheeled countless times. They have gotten a lot of wear and have been polished after every wearing. Cordovan is quite a material!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Edward Greens. 202 last.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. lionel

    lionel Well-Known Member

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    CH
    As promised in my latest reply, a picture of my "antiqued" EG Dover 606 Dark Oak with double sole. The leather was lighten using aceton and bleach.

    The shoes have some dust on them, they have spent the whole winter in th box. They can't wait to go out!

    [​IMG]
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  12. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    A little bit of shoe porn for your viewing pleasure ...

    [​IMG]

    top: JL Gamay
    bottom, from left to right: C&J HG Ormond, JL Sandon, C&J HG Cleveland, JL Westminster

    Right out of the box ... not yet polished.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Is there anybody able to identify the bottle in the first picture? [​IMG]


    Looks like those shoes only been tried on once or twice. Aren't you gonna wear them?
     
  13. Tibo

    Tibo Senior member

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    At work, mostly.
    A little bit of shoe porn for your viewing pleasure ...

    top: JL Gamay
    bottom, from left to right: C&J HG Ormond, JL Sandon, C&J HG Cleveland, JL Westminster

    Right out of the box ... not yet polished.

    Is there anybody able to identify the bottle in the first picture? [​IMG]


    Sysdoc, what's the last of the Ormond and Cleveland ? Is it the 337 last ?
     
  14. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    John Lobb chelsea boots

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. lameduck

    lameduck Active Member

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    London, UK
    zjpj83, I'm loving the EG 202's. The colour looks marvelous. And after seeing those JL chelseas... well, I think I might get some myself!
     
  16. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    zjpj83, I'm loving the EG 202's. The colour looks marvelous. And after seeing those JL chelseas... well, I think I might get some myself!
    They are great. I never thought I was a "boot person" until these.
     
  17. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Los Angeles
    I love those Cheslands. There were a few pair on ebay this week in my size in brown suede that I let go, but I may send an email to the seller to inquire about them. I don't have a chelsea boot, though i have a few chukkas. I'm getting more and more fond of suede lately too.
     
  18. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

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    Mostly Northern Hemisphere
    Looks like those shoes only been tried on once or twice. Aren't you gonna wear them?
    Didn't want to call the posting "weekly shoe damage". I had been afraid I'd get into legal trouble as that description has recently been copyrighted by a certain New Yorker who is said to buy every single non-black shoe between size 8 and 9.5 . [​IMG] The shoes on the pictures have just been tried on. I took the pictures in my fiancee's house in England the evening after I had bought them. I usually fly into LHR in the early morning and then either rent a car and drive up to Northampton or go shopping into London before I meet Kate in the evening. [​IMG]
    Sysdoc, what's the last of the Ormond and Cleveland ? Is it the 337 last ?
    Cleveland - C&J's new 350 last Ormond - C&J's "old" 330 last [​IMG]
     
  19. sysdoc

    sysdoc Senior member

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    Mostly Northern Hemisphere
  20. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    The C&J HG Cleveland is absolutely exquisite, and I would love to grab myself a pair. Can anyone provide me more info on this shoe (I see the above post talks about "last" - please elaborate) or more info on C&J in general?

    I'm out in California, and my initial web searches for this shoe have been fruitless. I can't even find it on their website! Any suggestions?
     

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