The Thread for Discussing Bespeaking Bespoke Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Personnally, I think it is risky to make something technically tricky like a completely seamless shoe as the first commission. My impression is that having seams are useful in how a shoe fits.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You might be right, but the key point to me is that someone should have conveyed that to me.
     


  3. CalzolaiFeF

    CalzolaiFeF Well-Known Member

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    1- In some cases, a different solution IS entirely alien. The italian school, for example, it's not particularly fond of inner seams (or wholecuts in general); so, if you ask for an inner seam, or no seam at all, you will receive quite embarassing results (usually)...
    For Cleverley, they offer a lot of variations, but they all include the "seam": a seamless is a quite alien beast even in the world of bespoke.

    2- Perfect explanation. As I always said, bespoke is not a fixed objective, it' s more of a neverending travel :)

    And about supposed seamless... this is the real deal.



    [​IMG]
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Very fair point on number one. As it turns out, Cleverley does not like doing seamless wholecuts, although they will if specifically asked for such a shoe and the design can only be effected in such a way. However, again, it comes back to communication and relationship-building. I had no way of knowing what they do or don't do because they didn't tell me until it was too late for me to make a better-informed decision. Seamless wholecuts I've seen plenty of. Seamless balmorals, less so. I think there are only a couple I've come across that have no side or back seams.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2014


  5. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    So you no longer consider the side seam ugly? :confused:
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I've gotten used to it. The more I've come to understand it as an accepted, even preferable, solution, the less ugly it has become to me.
     


  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Ya gotta get into those button depressions with a damp rag or something.
     


  8. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Maffofan,

    you put on shoe and me see if it fit good.
    you post picture on foot for men to see?
    me have pair come very very soon. :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2014


  9. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Yes,
    me think it true.
    C;leverley tell mafoofan what they do and he want shoe they not comfortable to make.
    They tell him to go and not come back ever,
    Mafoofan need shoe education so he know things and make contact good with Cleverley.
    You learn it more good and know things.
    You be good.


    The blue shoe in picture on top is very very good. :slayer:
    who made it?
    me like it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2014


  10. CalzolaiFeF

    CalzolaiFeF Well-Known Member

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    It's made by my lab, but I'll talk about the roman shoemaking school in a different thread :)
     


  11. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Very good.
    Talk is good about the shoe in top post.
     


  12. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I would have it redone.

    It looks like a mistake. At that price a flawless product should be delivered.

    Good luck.
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    As I've researched, the side seam is a fairly typical solution on bespoke balmorals (much rarer in RTW). The only other ways are a back strap or an exposed back seam. I don't think those approaches are any better and have rationalized to myself they are actually worse.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Okay, on to bespoke shoe number two. Suggestions?
     


  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Cordovan longwings. You'll never need another shoe.
     


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