The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Aloysius16]

I have some new trousers that are a bit tight below the knee. There’s some extra fabric to let out but only on the inseams, not the outseams. Can I use this to let the legs out a bit (half an inch or so) or will it twist the legs?

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

Any suggestions and critique on this?

I notice there's some extra material under my armpit and fabric bunching in lower back.
My pants do something funny at the bottom too, where it like does a break, even though it's too short to do a break. I tested it by rolling up my left pant leg a bit, and it still breaks in on itself.
Also something is off with the arm. Maybe cut too big?
Can these be tailored?

I have pretty similar fit issues. I think you can get both adjusted, but fixing the extra fabric at the lower back might be problematic.Based on what I've read, it requires shortening the back of the jacket from the top. Read here: EXTREME ERECT ALTERATIONS. It's doable, but time consuming and ultimately costly. Tapering the upper back should be no problem, though.

 

[Aloysius16]

I have a couple of pairs of bespoke pants which are uncomfortable. I think this is because the seat curve is too straight (the upper seat between the pocket openings feels as though it will rip apart when I sit and also pulls through the crotch). They look ok standing still, and they are not tight around the hips or through the crotch , but sitting (and walking) is not comfortable.

If this is the cause of the problem, it possible to do anything with finished pants to allow more curvature in the shape of the seat seam?

 

[DFWWingnut]

I have a couple of pairs of bespoke pants which are uncomfortable. I think this is because the seat curve is too straight (the upper seat between the pocket openings feels as though it will rip apart when I sit and also pulls through the crotch). They look ok standing still, and they are not tight around the hips or through the crotch , but sitting (and walking) is not comfortable.

If this is the cause of the problem, it possible to do anything with finished pants to allow more curvature in the shape of the seat seam?

Bespoke or MTM? If the former I’d speak with your tailor. If the later then chalk that up as part of the process.

 

[EddieK]

I have pretty similar fit issues. I think you can get both adjusted, but fixing the extra fabric at the lower back might be problematic.Based on what I've read, it requires shortening the back of the jacket from the top. Read here: EXTREME ERECT ALTERATIONS. It's doable, but time consuming and ultimately costly. Tapering the upper back should be no problem, though.

Yea I've heard similar things. I'm going to go see the tailor tomorrow and take it from there

 

[Aloysius16]

Bespoke or MTM? If the former I’d speak with your tailor. If the later then chalk that up as part of the process.

Yes, bespoke. Unfortunately my (ex) tailor is in a different city and is quite uncooperative as well. So I just wanted to know if an adjustment might be possible to a finished garment, and how.

 

[MacGuffen]

Hi, guys. I need a second opinion on this SuitSupply Jort jacket. I can't decide between EU48 and EU50. I've normally worn EU48, but I find the EU50 drapes better and has a more masculine silhouette because of the less suppressed waist and fuller shoulders and chest. Obviously the 50 needs sleeves shortened and waist reduced, but which should I go for? Neither feels restrictive and seems to fit in the shoulder. Thanks!

48:





50:

 

[mux8]

Hi, guys. I need a second opinion on this SuitSupply Jort jacket. I can't decide between EU48 and EU50. I've normally worn EU48, but I find the EU50 drapes better and has a more masculine silhouette because of the less suppressed waist and fuller shoulders and chest. Obviously the 50 needs sleeves shortened and waist reduced, but which should I go for? Neither feels restrictive and seems to fit in the shoulder. Thanks!

Not a tailor so this is just my opinion.
I'd suggest the 48. Shoulders in the 50 look a tad bit too large on you. The 48 doesn't need arms nor bringing in the waist.

The side silhouette on the 48 gives you a nice definition, which the 50 doesn't since it's more boxy.

 

[MacGuffen]

Not a tailor so this is just my opinion.
I'd suggest the 48. Shoulders in the 50 look a tad bit too large on you. The 48 doesn't need arms nor bringing in the waist.

The side silhouette on the 48 gives you a nice definition, which the 50 doesn't since it's more boxy.

Thanks for the critique. I feel like the shoulder line of the 50 is cleaner than the 48, though? Is it because of the divots on the back you're thinking 50 is too big?
Like I wrote above, the 50 obviously needs tailoring in the waist and sleeves, so I'm just trying to nail the basics with shoulders, length and chest (and I'm currently leaning towards 50 because those factors look better to my my eyes right now). I'm trying to get a Spoo-like fit.

 

[mux8]

Thanks for the critique. I feel like the shoulder line of the 50 is cleaner than the 48, though? Is it because of the divots on the back you're thinking 50 is too big?
Like I wrote above, the 50 obviously needs tailoring in the waist and sleeves, so I'm just trying to nail the basics with shoulders, length and chest (and I'm currently leaning towards 50 because those factors look better to my my eyes right now). I'm trying to get a Spoo-like fit.

Looking at the back from here:
48: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/48d-jpg.1282991/
50: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/50d-jpg.1282999/

The neapolitan shoulders look lost on the 50 since I think it droops down too low and doesn't sit as well as the 48. I also see this in other pictures. What's your chest measurement? This is a slim cut blazer, the 50 IMO gives it a boxy look and the shoulders look too extended. Do you own any other SuitSupply suits or blazers?

 

[mux8]

Looking at the back from here:
48: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/48d-jpg.1282991/
50: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/50d-jpg.1282999/

The neapolitan shoulders look lost on the 50 since I think it droops down too low and doesn't sit as well as the 48. I also see this in other pictures. What's your chest measurement? This is a slim cut blazer, the 50 IMO gives it a boxy look and the shoulders look too extended. Do you own any other SuitSupply suits or blazers?

For reference I first got a 42 in suit supply because I thought I needed some extra room to accommodate my shoulders. Well, I had to swap it out with a 40 since that fit better when I'm in a relaxed position, shoulder seems hit exactly at my shoulder.

 

[MacGuffen]

Looking at the back from here:
48: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/48d-jpg.1282991/
50: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/50d-jpg.1282999/

The neapolitan shoulders look lost on the 50 since I think it droops down too low and doesn't sit as well as the 48. I also see this in other pictures. What's your chest measurement? This is a slim cut blazer, the 50 IMO gives it a boxy look and the shoulders look too extended. Do you own any other SuitSupply suits or blazers?

I see what you mean. I have almost exactly 38 inch chest, but I have prominent pecs so I've usually felt that SuSu sports coats were slightly too snug in the chest (not their suits). Here are two relevant SuSu jackets:

Havana 48:


And Havana 50 altered with shorter sleeves and taken in at the waist and hips (sorry I don't have a better picture available right now).

 

[mux8]

I see, yeah the jacket will be tight if buttoned and you try to move your arms forward or cross your arms. IMO 48 looks quite good.

From the pictures in the back if you draw a line you can see that the 50 droops while the 48 is angled all the way upwards to your shoulders.

It's hard to say definitely, but I would guess 48.

Your chest measurement is small for the suit size, so I am guessing you actually have quite broad shoulders.

 

[MacGuffen]

I see, yeah the jacket will be tight if buttoned and you try to move your arms forward or cross your arms. IMO 48 looks quite good.

From the pictures in the back if you draw a line you can see that the 50 droops while the 48 is angled all the way upwards to your shoulders.

It's hard to say definitely, but I would guess 48.

Your chest measurement is small for the suit size, so I am guessing you actually have quite broad shoulders.

You mean because I feel the chest is slightly small in 48? Could perhaps be a waist thing also? There's bowing towards the button and slightly in the lapels with the Havana. Jort has slightly more chest measurement than Havana, but otherwise identical measurements.

You're thinking 48 with chest and waist slightly let out is the way to go?

I took some quick photos for comparison with the altered Havana 50:

 

[mux8]

Comparing

https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/50g-jpg.1283015/

https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/48a-jpg.1282988/

I see zero bowing on either. If you pull on the front button there should be about 2 inches of space (the gap between your shirt).

It's hard to compare that Havanna since it's linen/cotton and completely unstructured.

Comparing the Jort in the original post. The 48 seems more balanced and proportioned in total. The 50 gives you more boxy shoulder look.


Maybe others have different thoughts, but I would opt for a 48 and skip alterations.