The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[pnin22]

Dauster, thanks for the feedback. I appreciate the honesty.

It's tough to find suits and blazers on a budget that fit (I'm 6'6"), and while this one seemed to fit ok overall, I knew I couldn't wear it out and about without adjustments.

Having scoured thrift stores in Western NY state, I can say that you're not likely to find anything even moderately useful, and even if you luck out, you'd still spend $100+ on tailors. My suggestion: go to NYC or Toronto, stop by a Rack or SuitSupply and find a fit that works for you. Then either buy it there (tailoring is free?), or look for the suit on eBay or buyers forum.

 

[gianm]

What's the main cause of broken seams in the back of the leg (like in my post a page or two back)? Is it tightness in the seat or is it the thighs. For me, it feels like the seat is the culprit but I'm not sure. I'd like the trouser to drape nicely in the back.

 

[Rimaarts]

Hello! I'd like to ask for some advice! Since last year im drooling over private white bridge coat. Just got a chance to try it on. Im kind of between sizes. Size 5 unbuttoned in perfectly happy but as soon as I try to button it top 3 buttons needs like an inch more space. Size 6 chest buttons up perfectly but im drowning in the shoulders and biceps. Went to private white to inquire about made to measure And salesman talked me out of it he looked at pictures of me in the coat (he was out of stock), and told me to take size 6 and alter it. To take in waist, shorten sleeves, shrink the biceps and what surprised me most, shrink the back part so I get "size 5 shoulders on size 6 chest". He said it's quite easy. Maybe im mistaken but to my knowledge altering shoulders is THE hardest thing to do... Any other things to? Anyway, here is pictures of size 5 and size 6



P.s. yes I know it's overpriced due to being Simon's design, but peacoat is the one coat I have been unable to find the one I like for some years and this one was love at first sight. It ticks all the boxes "for me".

P.p.s as a new customer I have 10% off with private white and according to salesman that should cover the cost of in house alterations.... The only thing that concerns me is "altering shoulders will be easy"...

 

[classicalthunde]

X-post from the Hemrajani and MyTailor threads:

Here are a couple of pictures from my basted fitting with MyTailor/Hemrajani Bros in NYC this past week.

This is my first commission with them, so I opted for the basted fitting rather than the standard MTM in order to get the fit nailed down in the shortest amount of time possible. For the record, I am about 5'8" 220lbs with a a barrel torso and very hard to fit OTR. The suit is Drapers 5-star navy in 370g, I opted for standard shoulders, 2-button closure and a but of drape in the chest. I'm pretty sure that these pictures are from the initial try on before the pinning and chalking as well

this is my first time doing a basted fitting, let me know your thoughts...

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

Just got some test-trial pants from Luxire, and I think they're close to fitting well. What are your thoughts?

There's a bit of pulling at the front, plus some pocket flare, but what bothers me the most is the wedgie. Reading some of the technical tutorials on this website, I know that the fix is to either let out the back fork or scoop the seat, but which one do you think is appropriate based on the pictures?

 

[1up]

Had a shirt made from s&m - they agreed to remake it, with these adjustments. Any other insight from the experts here?

- A little bit too tight in the bicep area - increase biceps 0.25"

- Reduce forearm from elbow to cuff by 0.25”

- take out 0.5” of the fabric from back panel around waist Area.

- Right arm hangs lower than my left, and as a result the cuff peeks out of my suit jackets more than my left. reduce the right sleeve length by 0.25”

- can't get the collar to stay under my jacket as seen is the picture with the sportcoat - I think the problem is becuase of the collar band height, if we reduce the band height by 1/8" would lower the collar stand

 

[Aloysius16]

Proposed shirt adjustments sound about right. But what about the ridge running from behind the collar onto the top of the shoulders? I had a couple of shirts made by S&M and they had that issue that couldn’t be resolved. I have seen a couple of other people post S&M MtM shirts on here that had the ridge as well. I don’t know what causes it but I wondered if it anything to do with the really narrow yoke that their shirts have,

 

[1up]

Proposed shirt adjustments sound about right. But what about the ridge running from behind the collar onto the top of the shoulders? I had a couple of shirts made by S&M and they had that issue that couldn’t be resolved. I survived seen a couple of other people post S&M MtM shirts on here that had the ridge as well. I don’t know what causes it but I wondered if it anything to do with the really narrow yoke that their shirts have,

Strange, I didn’t even notice that! I’ll ask them and see what they say.

 

[DFWWingnut]

Cross posting from Luxire thread. I just had these trial pants made using a new pattern. Looking for a single reverse pleat and higher rise from my prior ordrers. I used a pair of MTM Amrbosi trousers for measurements but these don't fit quite the same. Pleats are pulling and upper tights seems baggy. Would appreciate any thoughts on how to improve fit.

It has also been suggested that I should wear an even higher rise due to my pronounced belly (which I am going to try and focus on!).

 

[RoseGardener]

OK, information was somewhere in this thread but it's over 500 pages ... so I shall ask again:

To shorten a jacket, what's the ideal, and what's the minimum distance between to top of pocket to the hem?

The jacket's that's too long for me has 10" between the top of pockets to hem.

 

[goalaso]

With a wide 4w corduroy trouser in a light rust color, would letting the waist out 1 inch (there is enough fabric to do this) likely leave visible scarring? Does it depend on the tailor's skill or is this is just unavoidable or am I overly concerned here?

 

[1up]

Are these a touch short, or is the cuff too big? Can't figure out why the pant/shoe interface looks off.

 

[usctrojans31]

I think both. Also seems like the back rise is off balance to the front rise, but that could be the angle of the photos.

 

[1up]

Probably just the angle, these are RTW in any case.

The cuffs are 2” - maybe reduce to 1.5” and increase the length 0.5” ?

 

[goalaso]

I'd like to have these irregular wide wale trousers let out about an inch. See photos for closeups of the material and how it meets at the waist. Is this inadvisable to do with this kind of corduroy? I do not want unsightly creases/scarting or which clearly still shows the original line of the seat. Thanks for any advice.

If this is the wrong forum to ask this type of question, please just let me know. It seemed a good fit (no pun intended)