The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[once a day]

@Cidermonk - I see! Yes MTM is a bit tricky to do completely automated at this point, since the greatest variable (granted they rely on digital prints and laser cutting) is the measurements you're taking. We do quite a bit of MTM, and we normally organize a call to verify the measurements on your first order. Not exactly "scaleable" as for an e-commerce goes, but we try to comfort our clients as the measurements can be a quite stressful component when doing an MTM online.

Just out of curiosity, how much did you end up paying for the shirt, and are you allowed to do any alternations? I must say they got the shoulder slope down quite nicely!

 

[Aquafortis]

This is not a question specific to fit, but apt for the tailors here as it's related to shirt construction. Last year I picked up several dress shirts from Orazio Luciano. All of them have the back panel sewn to the yoke with a lot of gathering at the seam. This photo is one of the Orazio's showing this and is the most pronounced. I've noticed this to a lesser degree with some other higher end shirt makers like Marol and Cesare Attolini, but if present at all, is very subtle.

I'm assuming this is a stylistic choice in the attachment of the yoke to the back, similar to a spalla camica shoulder, but is this true?

 

[Cidermonk]

@Cidermonk - I see! Yes MTM is a bit tricky to do completely automated at this point, since the greatest variable (granted they rely on digital prints and laser cutting) is the measurements you're taking. We do quite a bit of MTM, and we normally organize a call to verify the measurements on your first order. Not exactly "scaleable" as for an e-commerce goes, but we try to comfort our clients as the measurements can be a quite stressful component when doing an MTM online.

Just out of curiosity, how much did you end up paying for the shirt, and are you allowed to do any alternations? I must say they got the shoulder slope down quite nicely!

I paid $105 for the shirt. They have provided two complimentary remakes, so this is actually my third shirt. The shoulder slope has been adjusted on each remake from Sloping -> Very Sloping -> Very Very Sloping.

 

[breakaway01]

This is not a question specific to fit, but apt for the tailors here as it's related to shirt construction. Last year I picked up several dress shirts from Orazio Luciano. All of them have the back panel sewn to the yoke with a lot of gathering at the seam. This photo is one of the Orazio's showing this and is the most pronounced. I've noticed this to a lesser degree with some other higher end shirt makers like Marol and Cesare Attolini, but if present at all, is very subtle.

I'm assuming this is a stylistic choice in the attachment of the yoke to the back, similar to a spalla camica shoulder, but is this true?

I'm not a tailor but my understanding is that is not entirely stylistic -- the top of the back panel is wider than the bottom of the yoke so this extra length has to be worked in. Alternative approaches would be side or box pleats. The net result is that this gives you more freedom of movement by allowing the width of your back to expand (e.g. when you reach forward).

 

[papado]

It is MTM by proper cloth. I've attached the dimensions of the shirt below. View attachment 1136910

Did you not bring up the collar size to them on previous remakes? That collar looks huge on you from your photos, not sure how they would have said it's the right size. I think you should try darts next time if you'd like a cleaner back; other that that the shirt is real solid aside from the neck size.

 

[once a day]

I paid $105 for the shirt. They have provided two complimentary remakes, so this is actually my third shirt. The shoulder slope has been adjusted on each remake from Sloping -> Very Sloping -> Very Very Sloping.

Oh Ok - just to check, do you prefer to have the shirt slightly loose/comfortable fitted? The collar seem to be a bit wide, but that's might be what you are comfortable with. Box pleats are great for more "roomy" fits. Did you do it only only or at a store?

 

[Cidermonk]

Did you not bring up the collar size to them on previous remakes? That collar looks huge on you from your photos, not sure how they would have said it's the right size. I think you should try darts next time if you'd like a cleaner back; other that that the shirt is real solid aside from the neck size.

I actually requested that we up the collar size 0.25" from my normal size on my latest alteration to see if I could have a little extra room. Clearly, this worked out horribly so I will be going back down to my regular size. I will also definitely add darts to my shirts from now on! Thank you for all of the great advice.

Oh Ok - just to check, do you prefer to have the shirt slightly loose/comfortable fitted? The collar seem to be a bit wide, but that's might be what you are comfortable with. Box pleats are great for more "roomy" fits. Did you do it only only or at a store?

I prefer a more fitted look. All my interactions with Proper Cloth have been through email and pictures! I'm actually very impressed with how the fit continues to get better after every round of pictures and alterations.

 

[bdavro23]

I stumbled upon an old thread where a bunch of non-tailors were discussing this diagram. It got me thinking about the ways you would address this issue, first as an alteration, and secondly at the pattern stage. Presumably these would be two different approaches, so I'm interested in understanding each. Thoughts?

For whatever reason, the image I posted is being difficult. Trying again...

 

[once a day]

I actually requested that we up the collar size 0.25" from my normal size on my latest alteration to see if I could have a little extra room. Clearly, this worked out horribly so I will be going back down to my regular size. I will also definitely add darts to my shirts from now on! Thank you for all of the great advice.



I prefer a more fitted look. All my interactions with Proper Cloth have been through email and pictures! I'm actually very impressed with how the fit continues to get better after every round of pictures and alterations.

Ok - as long as you as the customer feel that it's moving forward and you're happy, then I think it is good. If you don't mind, we'll reach out to you later one via PM as we're relaunching our shirt collection shortly in the next 5 weeks.

 

[sebflynn]

Got an amazing ebay deal on this canali suit off eBay, its been taken to the tailor since, any feedback on the fit? I had the waist taken in 4 inches from 32 to a 28(hence why the back looks odd), the trousers have been hemmed and narrowed at the opening and the centre seam has been taken in on the jacket. It needs a steam and a press, I already spent 10 minutes fixing the lapel that came ironed completely flat.

Apologies for the poor lighting

 

[ThePanda]

Needs some fit advice for this Indochino suit I just got.
Album:

Thanks!

 

[josef1]

For whatever reason, the image I posted is being difficult. Trying again...

May I see that thread? Would be interested about this as well!

 

[sebflynn]

Needs some fit advice for this Indochino suit I just got.
Album:

Thanks!

Either that button stance is at your chest or you need to pull up your trousers!! Regardless you need the seat let out.
Sleeves need to be altered as they're too long, the jacket length is about an 1/2 to an inch to too long for my taste but it's acceptable.

 

[Despos]

This is not a question specific to fit, but apt for the tailors here as it's related to shirt construction. Last year I picked up several dress shirts from Orazio Luciano. All of them have the back panel sewn to the yoke with a lot of gathering at the seam. This photo is one of the Orazio's showing this and is the most pronounced. I've noticed this to a lesser degree with some other higher end shirt makers like Marol and Cesare Attolini, but if present at all, is very subtle.

I'm assuming this is a stylistic choice in the attachment of the yoke to the back, similar to a spalla camica shoulder, but is this true?

View attachment 1136969

The fullness is called shirring. That is a shirred back. It is a stylistic choice and it function is to put ease across a broad back.

 

[Despos]

Got an amazing ebay deal on this canali suit off eBay, its been taken to the tailor since, any feedback on the fit? I had the waist taken in 4 inches from 32 to a 28(hence why the back looks odd), the trousers have been hemmed and narrowed at the opening and the centre seam has been taken in on the jacket. It needs a steam and a press, I already spent 10 minutes fixing the lapel that came ironed completely flat. View attachment 1141497 View attachment 1141477 View attachment 1141478 View attachment 1141479 View attachment 1141480 View attachment 1141481 View attachment 1141482
Apologies for the poor lighting

The suit is the wrong size for you. Go down at least one size in this brand. The alterations are not done properly and poorly executed. There shouldn't be any puckering on the seams. That is not a pressing issue. You may have shoulder issues as your shoulder slope does not align with the jacket's shoulder slope. That's why the collar doesn't come close to your neck and you have bowing on the front of the lapels. Taking in the center back on the jacket is a big mistake. That's why the side seams are pulled to the back and creating the wrinkles on the side that are visible on the front view from the armholes down to the pocket.The way it was altered the jacket is twisted and distorted. Trouser could have been reduced on the front panels and not just on the back. Trouser length looks short. Sleeves look short too but that is subjective. Can you find/use another tailor?