The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Does anyone know if it's possible to add sleeve linings to an OTR unlined jacket? If so, is it typically a prohibitively expensive task?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Does anyone know if it's possible to add sleeve linings to an OTR unlined jacket? If so, is it typically a prohibitively expensive task?

Have had sleeve lining replaced on a jacket so I assume adding is also possible. I think I paid something like $150.

 

[JASSAJ]

Posted this over in the SLP thread too but thought I'd get opinions here as well.

This is a Saint Laurent blazer. Obviously, this is more high fashion than traditional suiting, but wasn't sure about the shoulder fit. It purposely has some significant shoulder padding that makes a divot when I have my hands on my hips (not really a normal stance as much as I like doing the Macarena), but is fine with arms neutral, in pockets or elbow bent. Any thoughts on the fit would be appreciated.

Before I get asked/told, I am looking for a black blazer that's more fashion forward and, while I appreciate I could get a bespoke jacket for a similar price, I'm really just looking for opinions on shoulder fit of this jacket in particular. Thanks in advance!!

Pro tip: if you want to see if you mirror is even slightly dusty take pic with an iPhone.

Hand on hip:

Hand in pocket:

Other:

 

[BB_Adept]

Most of the times the tailors in this thread ask for full body pictures.
I am no expert at all and i know this is not what you asked for, but the arm looks awfully tight.

 

[othertravel]

Posted this over in the SLP thread too but thought I'd get opinions here as well.

This is a Saint Laurent blazer. Obviously, this is more high fashion than traditional suiting, but wasn't sure about the shoulder fit. It purposely has some significant shoulder padding that makes a divot when I have my hands on my hips (not really a normal stance as much as I like doing the Macarena), but is fine with arms neutral, in pockets or elbow bent. Any thoughts on the fit would be appreciated.

Before I get asked/told, I am looking for a black blazer that's more fashion forward and, while I appreciate I could get a bespoke jacket for a similar price, I'm really just looking for opinions on shoulder fit of this jacket in particular. Thanks in advance!!

Pro tip: if you want to see if you mirror is even slightly dusty take pic with an iPhone.

Hand on hip:
View attachment 1885499

Hand in pocket:
View attachment 1885501

Other:
View attachment 1885505 View attachment 1885507 View attachment 1885509

Looks tight around the arms, but if you're wearing it over a tee for a casual look, it's not a big deal.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Posted this over in the SLP thread too but thought I'd get opinions here as well.

This is a Saint Laurent blazer. Obviously, this is more high fashion than traditional suiting, but wasn't sure about the shoulder fit. It purposely has some significant shoulder padding that makes a divot when I have my hands on my hips (not really a normal stance as much as I like doing the Macarena), but is fine with arms neutral, in pockets or elbow bent. Any thoughts on the fit would be appreciated.

Before I get asked/told, I am looking for a black blazer that's more fashion forward and, while I appreciate I could get a bespoke jacket for a similar price, I'm really just looking for opinions on shoulder fit of this jacket in particular. Thanks in advance!!

Pro tip: if you want to see if you mirror is even slightly dusty take pic with an iPhone.

Hand on hip:
View attachment 1885499

Hand in pocket:
View attachment 1885501

Other:
View attachment 1885505 View attachment 1885507 View attachment 1885509

The slightly extended and (somewhat) more padded shoulder is sort of a feature in Vaccarello’s new collections but coupled still with a very cropped, slim aesthetic on the tailoring as a sort of hold over of the heroin-chic adjacent look SLP had become known for. If that’s what you’re after in trying to emulate his look, the shoulder divots are likely a byproduct of chasing that. Wouldn’t worry too much about trying to eliminate them if so.

 

[JASSAJ]

The slightly extended and (somewhat) more padded shoulder is sort of a feature in Vaccarello’s new collections but coupled still with a very cropped, slim aesthetic on the tailoring as a sort of hold over of the heroin-chic adjacent look SLP had become known for. If that’s what you’re after in trying to emulate his look, the shoulder divots are likely a byproduct of chasing that. Wouldn’t worry too much about trying to eliminate them if so.

Thanks. That's kind of what I was thinking - more due to the padded/extended shoulder than anything. Appreciate the input.

 

[JASSAJ]

Most of the times the tailors in this thread ask for full body pictures.
I am no expert at all and i know this is not what you asked for, but the arm looks awfully tight.

Looks tight around the arms, but if you're wearing it over a tee for a casual look, it's not a big deal.

Ya, the arms are "slim" for sure...I have bigger arms than your average emaciated SLP model so that's probably the issue. Prob is I have a really hard time finding any suiting that fits my arms or thighs, sadly.

Thanks for the input!

 

[JohnMRobie]

Thanks. That's kind of what I was thinking - more due to the padded/extended shoulder than anything. Appreciate the input.

Not a tailor but if I recall it’s more the combo coupled with the slimness/fit. Somewhere on here there’s a super in depth explanation from JeffreyD about it. Edit: Found it.
Post in thread 'Divot terror'
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/divot-terror.151698/post-2686570

 

[Despos]

That article is about divots when you are static.
OP's question is the shoulder reaction to movement.
Cannot reduce it to one thing. The size of your arm has the least effect on this.
Two critical elements are the canvass shoulder construction and the cut/angle of the jacket shoulder slope.

In custom work when a client has a larger bicep/arm it's important to take 2 chest measurements. One over the fullest part of the chest and under the the arms. Another measure over the same area but the tape is placed over the arms. This is an overarm measure. Norm is a 6"-7" difference between the two measurements.
When the difference is greater you adjust the armhole width and the sleeve width/circumference to a larger size but not the chest size or back width.
You get the armhole and sleeve of a larger jacket that corresponds to your bicep size without sizing up the chest size and having excess cloth on the chest and blade.

 

[Despos]

Thanks. That's kind of what I was thinking - more due to the padded/extended shoulder than anything. Appreciate the input.

shoulders don't look extended and neither of your two points, padded/extended, effect this

 

[JASSAJ]

That article is about divots when you are static.
OP's question is the shoulder reaction to movement.
Cannot reduce it to one thing. The size of your arm has the least effect on this.
Two critical elements are the canvass shoulder construction and the cut/angle of the jacket shoulder slope.

In custom work when a client has a larger bicep/arm it's important to take 2 chest measurements. One over the fullest part of the chest and under the the arms. Another measure over the same area but the tape is placed over the arms. This is an overarm measure. Norm is a 6"-7" difference between the two measurements.
When the difference is greater you adjust the armhole width and the sleeve width/circumference to a larger size but not the chest size or back width.
You get the armhole and sleeve of a larger jacket that corresponds to your bicep size without sizing up the chest size and having excess cloth on the chest and blade.

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.

 

[bdavro23]

I have a general question:
Is there a limit to how much trousers should/can be shortened without throwing things off balance? My eyes are set on a couple of pairs of Natalino trousers, most of which are only available in "long" which would most certainly be too long for me (regular is a little long as well).
Their long versions have a 38.6 inch inseam+12.6 inch rise, i usually wear a 12.5 inch rise and a 42 inch out(!)seam. I do not have inseam measurements.

Outseam on the trousers based on you scenario would be 51.2".

 

[JTrent82]

Hello tailors. I have a 3/4" sloped right shoulder and I'm trying to pad out some old OTR sportcoats to mitigate the problem. All the jackets have unpadded shoulders, many with spalla camicia. I want to order some shoulder pads in bulk to give to my alterations tailor but there are so many options! Stiffener? Straight Cut? Covered or uncovered? What do you prefer and why?

 

[Despos]

Hello tailors. I have a 3/4" sloped right shoulder and I'm trying to pad out some old OTR sportcoats to mitigate the problem. All the jackets have unpadded shoulders, many with spalla camicia. I want to order some shoulder pads in bulk to give to my alterations tailor but there are so many options! Stiffener? Straight Cut? Covered or uncovered? What do you prefer and why?

Ask your tailor to source them and get what he thinks is best. If you trust him to do the work you can trust his choice of pad