The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Bersabee]

See the diagonal lines on the thigh and between the pleat and your hip. This is harder to diagnose and to adjust for.
Issue is the pattern used and the sewing.
This trouser cut/pattern isn’t working for your body type.
Did you buy these RTW or have them made for you?

is that a Saarinen table?

This was supposedly "Bespoke" which is probably a glorified MTM tbh. Kind of feel scammed although these are a better fit than anything else I have (other than the tight crotch/rise part). What kind of cut would you recommend? Something fuller?

How would you recommend fixing the the fabric popping out (look at side view) when the pleat meets the crease? Is it supposed to be sticking out like that?

The table is a rip off Saarinen courtesy of Ikea.

 

[classicalthunde]

possibly a very dumb question - can a good alterations tailor add 1/4" pick stitching after the fact (i.e. once the suit has been completed)?

 

[Despos]

@Bersabee

How would you recommend fixing the the fabric popping out (look at side view) when the pleat meets the crease? Is it supposed to be sticking out like that?

Just saw this.
It is normal. The crease on the pleat is flush/parallel to the body at the waistband and rotates direction in that area and becomes perpendicular to your leg.

 

[Despos]

possibly a very dumb question - can a good alterations tailor add 1/4" pick stitching after the fact (i.e. once the suit has been completed)?

Yes

 

[J.R.]

Can I get some feedback on this jacket? It is RTW Coppley 42R with heavy alterations. They took in the sides and front a bit and dropped the collar and I’m not sure what else. It was huge on me to start but they said 42 in the shoulders was necessary. There is a little wrinkle on the top back of the shoulder/neck area.
Here is a few pics either unbuttoned, buttoned and shoulders back; buttoned and shoulders relaxed.

The tailor said I had a very upright almost militaristic posture and something to the effect that is need MTM to properly deal with shoulders and upper back shape.

 

[Funcheese]

Any suggestions for shirt makers not in NYC? Actual shirt makers rather than MTM. West coast preferable. Thanks!

 

[stubbsj20]

What would a tailor need to do to solve the roll/bump at the top of and in between my shoulder blades?

 

[CJWright]

Hey everyone,

looking for feedback on this DB luxire jacket I am having made in VBC navy twill.

to my untrained eye:
1. Something needs to change about the shoulder
2. The arm holes need to be lowered
3. Across the back is okay but need more room in the chest and the waist
4. Length in sleeve and jacket are okay

would love to hear your observations

 

[CliffordSanchez]

Hi y'all,

(Edit: I hope this is the thread to ask these questions. If not, I apologize. I aim to make alterations with a tailor in case you guys deem it doable.)

Long time lurker here. I'm new to this here game, but I am really trying learn how to really see what fits and what doesn't. I have had a hard time finding anything OTR that I feel comfortable in. Mostly, something always feels off: either its just too big, or obviously too small. As such, I would really appreciate some feedback on the fit of these two jackets in order to learn more!

Perhaps good to know is that they are both from Corneliani; the corduroy one from the CC collection and the double breasted from Linea Sartoria. The DB is accompanied by a pair of suit pants which I did not include in the pictures. Obviously the sleeves are too long in both cases.

CC collection corduroy:

Linea Sartoria DB:

 

[burntalsoraw]

Hi all,

I just got this linen suit from Spier and Mackay. It's size 36s in their 'Neapolitan' cut. Any thoughts on size and fit would be greatly appreciated. Apologies for the weird upward camera angle.

 

[mossrockss]

Question for the tailors (@Despos , @jefferyd ):

Why does the shoulder line on some tailored jackets buckle/pop up when I put my arms in my pockets, or on my hips, while on others it doesn't, or does so to a much lesser degree?

My favorite jackets have shoulders that lay cleanly, even when my arm pops up pretty high, like when putting my hands in my jacket pocket.

On other jackets I have, which still lay cleanly in the shoulders when I'm standing in the robo pose, will pop up at the slightest movement.

It doesn't seem to have anything to do with shoulder padding or stiffness—I have a totally unstructured Drake's cotton jacket that lays cleanly flat pretty much all the time.

My suspicion is that it has to do with the shape of the armhole and how much "volume" (not sure if I'm describing it right) there is in the blades and maybe even in the upper chest. Maybe how high an armhole is makes a difference, as well.

But I'd love to hear the tailors' input to know what the actual reason is!

See pics to see two jackets illustrating what I mean, photographed from front and back with various amounts of arm movement (hanging at the side, hands in jacket pocket, and hands in pants pockets). One stays almost completely flat on top (others I have lay completely flat), while the other pops up at the end with the slightest movement.

TIA!

Spoiler: Flatter Shoulder Jacket

Spoiler: Bumpy shoulder jacket

 

[bluesteel01]

I have a suit which I think fits OK (if I stand straight) except being a little long for my height. (In the first three the bottom quarters hang wrong and the shoulders look narrow but when I stand straight in the last picture it is fixed. Letting out the sides a little or fixing my posture and losing a little weight will fix this I think, but will not fix the length.)

In PICTURE 1, I digitally shortened the jacket slightly on the right to see if it might look better, you can see my full height standing.

PICTURE 1

IMG-5865cropface2small

Image IMG-5865cropface2small hosted in ImgBB

imgbb.com

In PICTURE 2, I have sewn the jacket shorter about 0.6inch with basting and zoomed in to show the jacket more closely. The pockets are quite low and the flaps are long to match the wide lapels. I think the buttons are high enough on the original jacket for it to look OK shortened, but what about the pockets? Does it look out of balance? What if the flaps are also reduced by 1/4 inch?

PICTURE 2

shortcomp hosted at ImgBB

Image shortcomp hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Please give your opinions as to whether the shortened jacket is better for my overall height and if you think the shortened one proportions look OK or if it is better looking in the original length on me despite being a bit long.

 

[lfd75]

I just picked these two jackets at an estate sale and was hoping I could get some feedback on the fit and what would need to be done to dial it in. They are both my usual size (42L) but a little shorter (0.5 inches) than I’m used to. The orange/salmon jacket is linen/silk/wool blend made by the Peerless Clothing company in Canada and will need to be pressed. The herringbone jacket is an angora/wool blend made for Polo by Corneliani and has the softest shoulders I have ever seen.

 

[floridasenior]

Back is big across the blades and shoulder width.
Your right shoulder is a bit lower than the left so you see a bit more breaking on that side. You can see it on the front and back view.
hard to alter because you can only reduce the backpart and involves opening the sleeves.
If you are able to try on suits from other makers you may find a brand that fits your body better. You don’t seem hard to fit, just look for a more flattering silhouette.

After the suggestion that my right shoulder is lower than the left, I tried adding a little extra padding to the right shoulder of the jacket. It appears to clean it up. Is this a good solution?

Before

After

 

[Crispyj]

Question for the tailors (@Despos , @jefferyd ):

Why does the shoulder line on some tailored jackets buckle/pop up when I put my arms in my pockets, or on my hips, while on others it doesn't, or does so to a much lesser degree?

My favorite jackets have shoulders that lay cleanly, even when my arm pops up pretty high, like when putting my hands in my jacket pocket.

On other jackets I have, which still lay cleanly in the shoulders when I'm standing in the robo pose, will pop up at the slightest movement.

It doesn't seem to have anything to do with shoulder padding or stiffness—I have a totally unstructured Drake's cotton jacket that lays cleanly flat pretty much all the time.

My suspicion is that it has to do with the shape of the armhole and how much "volume" (not sure if I'm describing it right) there is in the blades and maybe even in the upper chest. Maybe how high an armhole is makes a difference, as well.

But I'd love to hear the tailors' input to know what the actual reason is!

See pics to see two jackets illustrating what I mean, photographed from front and back with various amounts of arm movement (hanging at the side, hands in jacket pocket, and hands in pants pockets). One stays almost completely flat on top (others I have lay completely flat), while the other pops up at the end with the slightest movement.

TIA!

Spoiler: Flatter Shoulder Jacket

View attachment 1788596 View attachment 1788597 View attachment 1788598 View attachment 1788599 View attachment 1788600 View attachment 1788601 View attachment 1788602

Spoiler: Bumpy shoulder jacket

View attachment 1788603 View attachment 1788604 View attachment 1788605 View attachment 1788606 View attachment 1788608 View attachment 1788609 View attachment 1788610 View attachment 1788611

This happened with my Liverano MTO!