The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Thingamajig]

Hey!

Longtime lurker here, just wanted to pop in to get you wonderful folks' opinions on fixing this suit jacket which sits at a precarious stage of ill-fitment. I've recently lost 20 pounds (6"0 175 lbs --> 6"0 155 lbs), and therefore, don't fit in almost anything I own. Note: The pictures were taken in a hurry, which is why the shirt collar is slightly messed up in some of these images

regards,
Midwestern Sasquatch

Honestly, you've lost so much weight that there is not much that can be done without incurring heavy costs. But I would not wear it personally until the sleeve pitch is fixed. The initial pitch is totally off from what I can see. With everything else, I guess you just have to accept it as a roomier cut.

 

[glamour-spiral]

Hello all - purchased this off-the-rack and had alterations done in the store. My goal is a classic, timeless conservative American executive style. I'm in my 40s, live in NYC, and as you can see, fairly skinny with long arms. It feels pretty good but I don't entirely trust my eyes/judgment yet. Looking for general feedback on fit from the experts here to decide whether I'm on the right track. Included one overview image and several alternate views in the attachments, happy to provide some detail shots if needed. Thanks!

 

[glamour-spiral]

Hello all - purchased this off-the-rack and had alterations done in the store. My goal is a classic, timeless conservative American executive style. I'm in my 40s, live in NYC, and as you can see, fairly skinny with long arms. It feels pretty good but I don't entirely trust my eyes/judgment yet. Looking for general feedback on fit from the experts here to decide whether I'm on the right track. Included one overview image and several alternate views in the attachments, happy to provide some detail shots if needed. Thanks!

View attachment 1714676

Wondering if any of the viewers of the images over the weekend have any comments on the fit. I'm very curious to know whether any other alterations are advisable and practical, if it's fine as is, or if I need to start fresh from a different size or brand foundation. Your insights will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Litigation Cures All]

Wondering if any of the viewers of the images over the weekend have any comments on the fit. I'm very curious to know whether any other alterations are advisable and practical, if it's fine as is, or if I need to start fresh from a different size or brand foundation. Your insights will be greatly appreciated!

Shoulders look too big. You could definitly have the suit tailored to be a bit more slim fitting. Doesn’t need to be super slim, but just a comfortably tailored fit. If the shoulder seams are hanging off the end of your shoulder bone, it is likely too big in the shoulders. If you’re in NYC, you have tons of good tailoring options. What make is the suit?

 

[bicycleradical]

Wondering if any of the viewers of the images over the weekend have any comments on the fit. I'm very curious to know whether any other alterations are advisable and practical, if it's fine as is, or if I need to start fresh from a different size or brand foundation. Your insights will be greatly appreciated!

The shoulders seem off to me. There are divots in both when viewing from the rear. The fit doesn't seem right there. Tailoring the shoulders to fit better is not a good idea. Can you find the same suit a size smaller to compare?

 

[Litigation Cures All]

Second above. You can’t really tailor shoulders. Return if possible for different size.

 

[glamour-spiral]

Second above. You can’t really tailor shoulders. Return if possible for different size.

Thanks @Litigation Cures All and @bicycleradical

I didn't want to "lead the witnesses" but I was worried about the shoulders too. This suit is a Brooks Brothers 1818 size 38R - bought during a pandemic sale, so I don't think they have the exact model anymore - do you think there'll be enough fabric in the sleeves in a 36R of another suit?

With department store experiences in the past I've measured a 36 but I've been told they can't lengthen the sleeves enough and so encouraged me to buy a size up.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

Thanks @Litigation Cures All and @bicycleradical

I didn't want to "lead the witnesses" but I was worried about the shoulders too. This suit is a Brooks Brothers 1818 size 38R - bought during a pandemic sale, so I don't think they have the exact model anymore - do you think there'll be enough fabric in the sleeves in a 36R of another suit?

With department store experiences in the past I've measured a 36 but I've been told they can't lengthen the sleeves enough and so encouraged me to buy a size up.

I see. The problem is taking in shoulders typically messes up the balance of the jacket. It can be done, but is not recommended. I would see if you can return it. If so, go down the made-to-measure (MTM) route. You’re in the best city in the country for custom suiting. If not, a skilled tailor can likely do the alteration well. I recommend Dashnor’s on the UES.

 

[papado]

Thanks @Litigation Cures All and @bicycleradical

I didn't want to "lead the witnesses" but I was worried about the shoulders too. This suit is a Brooks Brothers 1818 size 38R - bought during a pandemic sale, so I don't think they have the exact model anymore - do you think there'll be enough fabric in the sleeves in a 36R of another suit?

With department store experiences in the past I've measured a 36 but I've been told they can't lengthen the sleeves enough and so encouraged me to buy a size up.

You seem like you probably need something like a 36 Long which no place typically makes so I can see you're in a tough spot. It should be possible to try a place like SuitSupply and see if their slimmer cut suits would work in a 38 (shoulders would be narrower; jacket a little short than the BB suit) or if you could do their 'custom' program with a 36 and extend the sleeves. I know people with relatively leaner builds favor their stuff so it's probably worth a try for you. You'll need to resist any of their trendy pushes but you can definitely get a more classically styled suit with the right choices.

 

[Stylewords]

Thanks @Litigation Cures All and @bicycleradical

I didn't want to "lead the witnesses" but I was worried about the shoulders too. This suit is a Brooks Brothers 1818 size 38R - bought during a pandemic sale, so I don't think they have the exact model anymore - do you think there'll be enough fabric in the sleeves in a 36R of another suit?

With department store experiences in the past I've measured a 36 but I've been told they can't lengthen the sleeves enough and so encouraged me to buy a size up.

Posters here tend to warn people off tailoring shoulders, but it can turn out fine if you find a good alterations tailor.

 

[Colrais]

Hi all, first time trying a jacket from Poszetka.

Apologies in advance for the mess of a mirror - water stains and accumulated dust and such. But I trust the big idea gets across.

Spoiler: Unbuttoned

Spoiler: Buttoned

My bugbears are the shoulder divots and the lapel bends. I'm hoping that sizing up one can settle those but would like your collective feedback on the matter, as well as any other (balance?) issues before shipping the exchange.

Sleeves may want shortening and probably suppression in the skirt if I size up...? The curve of the hips on the current size isn't to my liking.

 

[BB_Adept]

Dear guys I would like some feedback on the fit of these sport coats and advice on what to do differently next time. These were all altered already since they did not fit at all beforehands. All were second hand from my dad.

My own biggest concern is the lapels. They seem off and I cannot say with certainty if this is due to the jacket being too small or too big at which specific areas. They were all taken in around the waist quite a bit.

I also notice the pulling in the back which might just be the result of asymmetry.

The navy blue one seems to fit best, it is also the one with the smallest chest (56cm instead of 58cm self measured).

They are all quite similar around the shoulders (~49-50cm straight across).

Any advice and feedback is welcome. I am still building my wardrobe.
These look, at least in my opinion, worse on those pictures than when I actually wear them. I quite enjoy wearing all of them knowing they are imperfect but considering my physique it sure is difficult to find a "perfect" fit.

 

[BB_Adept]

Dear guys I would like some feedback on the fit of these sport coats and advice on what to do differently next time. These were all altered already since they did not fit at all beforehands. All were second hand from my dad.

My own biggest concern is the lapels. They seem off and I cannot say with certainty if this is due to the jacket being too small or too big at which specific areas. They were all taken in around the waist quite a bit.

I also notice the pulling in the back which might just be the result of asymmetry.

The navy blue one seems to fit best, it is also the one with the smallest chest (56cm instead of 58cm self measured).

They are all quite similar around the shoulders (~49-50cm straight across).

Any advice and feedback is welcome. I am still building my wardrobe.
These look, at least in my opinion, worse on those pictures than when I actually wear them. I quite enjoy wearing all of them knowing they are imperfect but considering my physique it sure is difficult to find a "perfect" fit.

(Gonna bump this just a little )

Also i just found out that the problem goes away when i only button the top button of those sport coats. Of course this looks weird in total, but they drape much more nicely and the lapels do not diverge as much. I am still mainly looking for the reason why this is, whether it is too big or too tight at which area. Or is it the button stance?

All those sport coats are 3-roll 2 half canvassed. And all look better when unbuttoned... This is very frustrating.

 

[GaiusM]

I'd like to have this sleeve lengthened by just a cm or so, maybe 1.5. Went to 2 different tailor's, both said it isn't possible after seeing the inner stiching pictured below. Is there any chance of lengthening it? Why is it not doable, the diagonal stitch?

 

[Thingamajig]

Hi all, first time trying a jacket from Poszetka.

Apologies in advance for the mess of a mirror - water stains and accumulated dust and such. But I trust the big idea gets across.

Spoiler: Unbuttoned

View attachment 1717136 View attachment 1717137
View attachment 1717135

Spoiler: Buttoned

View attachment 1717139
View attachment 1717115

View attachment 1717100 View attachment 1717101

My bugbears are the shoulder divots and the lapel bends. I'm hoping that sizing up one can settle those but would like your collective feedback on the matter, as well as any other (balance?) issues before shipping the exchange.

Sleeves may want shortening and probably suppression in the skirt if I size up...? The curve of the hips on the current size isn't to my liking.

I can't really tell the nature of the shoulder divots cuz the picture quality isn't the best and it is a dark jacket, but usually is caused by not having enough space in the back. A picture from the back would be helpful.

The lapel bends might be for a couple of reasons since your chest is pretty large, you either need a hammer dart or the roll line isn't long enough.

One thing to definitely do is to lower the neck line on the back panel of your next jacket, there is very unsightly excess fabric there. As for the skirt flare, it is up to personal preference, but I find it helps accentuate the waist in all my clients.