The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Scarlatti]

Could also be a question of fit: It's now the fourth time that my trousers happen to rip at the seat. This pair is cut rather roomy, definitely not slim. The fabric is entry-level VBC flannell (same with the other three trousers that ripped). Each time the rip has been around the same area. What could be the reason? Hip / upper leg too narrow? Insufficient flexibility of the seat's seam? Weak fabric?

 

[Crispyj]

Could also be a question of fit: It's now the fourth time that my trousers happen to rip at the seat. This pair is cut rather roomy, definitely not slim. The fabric is entry-level VBC flannell (same with the other three trousers that ripped). Each time the rip has been around the same area. What could be the reason? Hip / upper leg too narrow? Insufficient flexibility of the seat's seam? Weak fabric?
View attachment 1706770

Some pictures of how your pants fit would be helpful. Everyone's definition of roomy is different.

Thin flannels aren't exactly the most durable.

 

[nevaeh]

Could also be a question of fit: It's now the fourth time that my trousers happen to rip at the seat. This pair is cut rather roomy, definitely not slim. The fabric is entry-level VBC flannell (same with the other three trousers that ripped). Each time the rip has been around the same area. What could be the reason? Hip / upper leg too narrow? Insufficient flexibility of the seat's seam? Weak fabric?
View attachment 1706770

How long had you worn these? I’m hoping the rip didn‘t happen during a meeting or something …

To potentially strengthen that area (this doesn’t answer your question), my previous alterations trailer recommended something called a “crotch saddle,” a thin lining fabric that supposedly reinforces the seat area. Not sure whether that actually works or is merely a placebo.

Some pictures of how your pants fit would be helpful. Everyone's definition of roomy is different.

Thin flannels aren't exactly the most durable.

Also, wasn’t there some discussion of muscular body types possibly having a more pronounced problem with this?

 

[Bersabee]

Pants from Collaro - any feedback is appreciated. Just trying to see what I missed

My thoughts:
- I definitely need to adjust back rise as it is giving me a wedgie
- Need to increase waist to allow the pleats to close properly
- There seems to be weird bunching at the thigh (front)
- Uneven length due to one hip higher than the other; Not sure on what adjustments to do here.
--> I know that one side of my butt is larger than the other so increasing my waist might help solve this issue
- Length is too long? I am trying to achieve 0 break.
- Pockets not closed flush

 

[Aloysius16]

I had posted about this on another thread but will try here too. I have a nice new suit (not the one pictured!) that feels tight between the collar seam and the lower front edge of the armhole on both sides.Almost like a strap attached along the lines of the arrow I have drawn (or like wearing a child’s rucksack!). The collar also cuts a little into my neck on either side.

I think, based on the other thread, that this is a result of my forward and slightly sloping shoulders being out of alignment with the cut of the suit and that the correct adjustment would be to ‘straighten the shoulders’ by opening the collar, shoulder and sleeve head in order to shift the fore part along. However this is complex alteration and nobody in my part of the UK is willing to do the job even if they understood what it was.

So my question is whether there might be any other (simpler) alterations that could partially alleviate the tightness even if they are not the full correction.

For instance, might it help to ask for the armholes to be widened a little to stop some of the pulling where the front of my armpit cuts into the armhole?

The jacket is also a little tight through the chest and waist. Would letting out the side seams a little (it needs 1-1.5cm let out on each side) also help alleviate any of the tightness by allowing the lower armhole to ease forward a little?

 

[Scarlatti]

Some pictures of how your pants fit would be helpful. Everyone's definition of roomy is different.

You're right. I found some pictures of me wearing them. Not sure if it's obvious on these pictures, but my butt is rather big for my height, but the legs are normal to skinny. Not sure if I should make more room at the hips or something like that.

 

[Aloysius16]

You're right. I found some pictures of me wearing them. Not sure if it's obvious on these pictures, but my butt is rather big for my height, but the legs are normal to skinny. Not sure if I should make more room at the hips or something like that.
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I’m not a tailor so take this with a pinch of salt, but how do these trousers feel when walking or sitting? They look a pretty good fit standing straight (could perhaps loosen the hips a touch). But I have had trousers that look like this but pull uncomfortably through the crotch area when I sit down and feel restrictive just above the knee when I walk. The reason, I believe. Is that the seat seam is too straight with insufficient curvature for your seat. if so, this will cause the pulling, tension and eventually the wear and tear in this area.

I am always suspicious when trousers hang nicely beneath the seat when standing that the ‘price will be paid’ when sitting and walking. For example, old trousers cut for horse riders are made for seated pursuits and look messy when upright,

 

[Scarlatti]

I’m not a tailor so take this with a pinch of salt, but how do these trousers feel when walking or sitting? They look a pretty good fit standing straight (could perhaps loosen the hips a touch). But I have had trousers that look like this but pull uncomfortably through the crotch area when I sit down and feel restrictive just above the knee when I walk. The reason, I believe. Is that the seat seam is too straight with insufficient curvature for your seat. if so, this will cause the pulling, tension and eventually the wear and tear in this area.

I am always suspicious when trousers hang nicely beneath the seat when standing that the ‘price will be paid’ when sitting and walking. For example, old trousers cut for horse riders are made for seated pursuits and look messy when upright,

Thanks for your suggestions. I can't say they feel uncomfortable when walking or sitting, but the pull on the seat area is obvious when I squat or knee down to lace my shoes. The question for me is how to deal with this fit issue while also keeping a clean appearance while standing straight.

 

[MattyS]

Hi, everyone. I brought home my first bespoke double-breasted suit today. It looked great at the tailor's, but when I brought it home and tried the jacket on for my wife, we noticed something -- a slight pulling or puckering around the button that is closing the jacket. I've uploaded a not-great photo my wife took with my phone. We aren't sure if this slight puckering is just what we should expect with a double-breasted jacket -- I've never had one before -- or if some slight adjustment is needed. What's confusing me is that the jacket doesn't feel tight or too fitted at all. There seems to be plenty of room, and so I wouldn't want to make it any bigger around the waist. Is it just the weight of the fabric pulling on the button slightly? (We tripled checked that the internal button was fastened properly. It was.) Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Is this just how it's supposed to look?

 

[MattyS]

Hi, everyone. I brought home my first bespoke double-breasted suit today. It looked great at the tailor's, but when I brought it home and tried the jacket on for my wife, we noticed something -- a slight pulling or puckering around the button that is closing the jacket. I've uploaded a not-great photo my wife took with my phone. We aren't sure if this slight puckering is just what we should expect with a double-breasted jacket -- I've never had one before -- or if some slight adjustment is needed. What's confusing me is that the jacket doesn't feel tight or too fitted at all. There seems to be plenty of room, and so I wouldn't want to make it any bigger around the waist. Is it just the weight of the fabric pulling on the button slightly? (We tripled checked that the internal button was fastened properly. It was.) Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Is this just how it's supposed to look?
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Just giving this post a little bump, in the hope that people didn't see it because of the Thanksgiving holiday.

 

[Stanacle]

Is the area around the milanese buttonhole creasing like this acceptable? I have a few suits done by the same tailor before and it is the first time this is happening.

The tailor said it's because this fabric is stiff, and it is made by 30%mohair 70% super 100 wool. What are your thoughts on that

 

[Hfriend25]

New made to measure jacket from Collaro. Second jacket that I've had from them and the first double-breasted. I think it looks pretty good but if anyone has any thoughts on whether it's a good fit and what could be approved for future commissions please let me know.

I'm also thinking about asking to extend the shoulders a little on future commissions - more for style reasons than fit - but it would be interesting to know anyone's thoughts on that.

Thank you.

 

[BB_Adept]

Are you German by any chance? I saw both of your collaro jackets and this one is even better than the first.

Would you mind providing a little more information about the jackets (canvassed? Lining? Which material did you use? Did you opt for the trial jacket?) ?

I think this sport coat above looks good, but due to the dark color it is difficult to assess. You might want to take pictures outside to make it easier for us.

I am thinking about ordering from collaro since my nearest tailor is not near and all and collaro seems to offer good value. ~800 euros for a jacket with the "trial jacket" option seem fair.

 

[Shetterd]

New made to measure jacket from Collaro. Second jacket that I've had from them and the first double-breasted. I think it looks pretty good but if anyone has any thoughts on whether it's a good fit and what could be approved for future commissions please let me know.

I'm also thinking about asking to extend the shoulders a little on future commissions - more for style reasons than fit - but it would be interesting to know anyone's thoughts on that.

Thank you.

Not a tailor, but the sleeves look a little tight? Might just be the angle, though.

 

[Hfriend25]

Not a tailor, but the sleeves look a little tight? Might just be the angle, though.

I wish my arms were big enough to fill out the sleeves!! They are actually quite roomy, to the point that it look me a little by surprise on my first jacket and I asked for them to be taken in for future commisions, before changing my mind and deciding I enjoying the extra space.