The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[gavspen]

Do you mean that it measures 23.5" from pit to pit, and that your chest measures 40.5?

How are the shoulders? Are they where you normally like them? A little extended? This could be a bigger issue than the chest, assuming the chest can feasibly be done.

Yes, measures 23.5 and I'm about 40.5. Shoulders a little wide but doable.

 

[acapaca]

Yes, measures 23.5 and I'm about 40.5. Shoulders a little wide but doable.

I'm assuming somewhere around 22" across is what you'd normally like? I'd say it might be worth a shot, but it depends on a number of things. One is how much you're willing to gamble on the experiment, assuming you have other options (return it, not buy it in the first place, readily find something closer to begin with, etc.). And of course, the capability of your tailor.

I can tell you that I've had decent luck in a similar situation. I had the luxury of having access to competent and highly affordable tailors, in Southeast Asia, and nothing really to lose, as they were jackets I 'shrank' out of and wouldn't have had much use for anyway. When it worked, it worked surprisingly well. When it didn't, it was because I got some kind of weird pulling in the upper arm or armhole.

I suppose one hard boundary on how much you could take in has to do with the breast pocket, depending on how the tailor would go about it.

 

[gavspen]

I'm assuming somewhere around 22" across is what you'd normally like? I'd say it might be worth a shot, but it depends on a number of things. One is how much you're willing to gamble on the experiment, assuming you have other options (return it, not buy it in the first place, readily find something closer to begin with, etc.). And of course, the capability of your tailor.

I can tell you that I've had decent luck in a similar situation. I had the luxury of having access to competent and highly affordable tailors, in Southeast Asia, and nothing really to lose, as they were jackets I 'shrank' out of and wouldn't have had much use for anyway. When it worked, it worked surprisingly well. When it didn't, it was because I got some kind of weird pulling in the upper arm or armhole.

I suppose one hard boundary on how much you could take in has to do with the breast pocket, depending on how the tailor would go about it.

Thanks for your thoughts. I guess the thing to do is find a tailor I trust and ask him. The guy I used for years....very good...retired and I haven’t found a replacement.

 

['patanoster]

Hello all, interested in any feedback on this MTM suit. I think stylewise there are a few things I would change were I to do it again (a bit of shoulder, lined not unlined, smaller lapels ) but any comments on the fit? In my relatively uneducated POV the front looks good, but there is some crumpling on the legs around the seat and the underarm front and back looks a little… baggy?
Things in scope: fit
Things out of scope: scrappy hair, scrappy beard, untidy living room

 

[driving glove]

In the photos, it looks like your hips are thrust forward. Is that your habitual posture? If so, the front of your next jacket may benefit from a bit more length to improve the front/back balance.
In the lateral view it looks like your arm may hang a bit straighter than the existing sleeve pitch of the jacket.
I think a shot from the front and back, of the jacket buttoned would also be helpful in assessing fit.
BTW, I am certainly no tailor, I just drink with one when I get the opportunity......

 

[ter1413]

Can you also post a pic with the jacket buttoned?

 

['patanoster]

In the photos, it looks like your hips are thrust forward. Is that your habitual posture? If so, the front of your next jacket may benefit from a bit more length to improve the front/back balance.
In the lateral view it looks like your arm may hang a bit straighter than the existing sleeve pitch of the jacket.
I think a shot from the front and back, of the jacket buttoned would also be helpful in assessing fit.
BTW, I am certainly no tailor, I just drink with one when I get the opportunity......

Can you also post a pic with the jacket buttoned?

I think hips forward is my standard standing position, yes, though its hard to figure out what natural is when thinking about it. I feel like the more I look the more it highlights my wonkiness and weird posture….

thanks both, here are pics with buttons done up. Lost the tie, hairtie and light during the working day.

 

[driving glove]

Personally I would like at least another inch of length in the jacket, another inch in the chest, and to change the paddock jacket button configuration to 3 roll two with a lapel that wide.

 

['patanoster]

Personally I would like at least another inch of length in the jacket, another inch in the chest, and to change the paddock jacket button configuration to 3 roll two with a lapel that wide.

thanks, yeah ultimately i think I’d get a slightly less wide lapel looking at it now, but we live with our mistakes. Why do you say another inch in the chest out of interest — is it that slight pulling around the button?
I also wondered about bringing the jacket waist in slightly, which I decided against at the time of make

 

[Chronic_Zero]

I wonder what everyone thinks of this second fitting for a bespoke polo coat in Harris tweed. I asked for the back vent to overlap more so to stick out less. It’s quite full on the upper back but that’s intended to aid freedom of movement. The collar canvas will also be cut to be the same length as the lapel.

Anything else you’d point out?

It’s missing a belt on the back of course.

 

[driving glove]

thanks, yeah ultimately i think I’d get a slightly less wide lapel looking at it now, but we live with our mistakes. Why do you say another inch in the chest out of interest — is it that slight pulling around the button?
I also wondered about bringing the jacket waist in slightly, which I decided against at the time of make

I would not cinch in the waist more but think more volume in the chest to eliminate the button pull will give you a more flattering outline. In a recent posting, Simon Crompton of Permanent Style has some comments about how he has chosen a different cut for his jackets over time, that may be applicable to your reflections.

 

[aabbcc]

Hi, I have a un-proportionally big buttocks compared with my waist, this makes it so barely any trousers RTW trousers fit properly, so I thought I'd thought I give Suitsupplys MTM/MTO or whater its called service a try since my other trousers have a tendency to cut into my crotch or be super tight across the buttocks.

My waist is approximately 20cm smaller than my buttocks and I usually wear size 44, I asked if they should start from a size 46 instead and was advised not to. They made the crotch area as large as they could as well as adding a crotch piece. Yet trousers really does not fit well imo and just looks weird.

I summon the almighyt Despos, please tell me why they wont fit, what the issue is and going forward, and what I need from a MTM trouser to fit me. Like, what alterations needs doing?

 

[Shetterd]

I wonder what everyone thinks of this second fitting for a bespoke polo coat in Harris tweed. I asked for the back vent to overlap more so to stick out less. It’s quite full on the upper back but that’s intended to aid freedom of movement. The collar canvas will also be cut to be the same length as the lapel.

Anything else you’d point out?

It’s missing a belt on the back of course.

Maybe try the bespoke projects thread?

 

[Shetterd]

I think hips forward is my standard standing position, yes, though its hard to figure out what natural is when thinking about it. I feel like the more I look the more it highlights my wonkiness and weird posture….

thanks both, here are pics with buttons done up. Lost the tie, hairtie and light during the working day.

If that is possible in the system you are using I would try and lower the buttoning point a bit.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Just bought the Ready to Wear Dugdale Grey Wool Gurkha Pants in the size 33 waist & 29 Inseam from Luxire. The fit is atrocious and it is obvious the pants are too tight. My questions:

1. Is there anything at all right with the pants? Rise etc. ?
2. Any suggestions for what I should do for my next step?
3. Should I just try bespoke instead?