The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Edit: By the way, that jacket in post 9611 is just gorgeous in the back! What a thing of beauty.

Thank you! I work a lot at that jacket in order to get a good shape. It s very difficult when you are not a real tailor and you spent a lot of hours trying to solve an issue. I have to say i used a garment which helps me to get that results. Now i m working on a new jacket and i have some issues because of my blades and i don t know why things are different. I m waiting for some suggestions. Don t take into consideration the sleeves and the lapel, just the back.


Thank you!
[/QUOTE]


@Alx190
every jacket you cut will be different because every cloth is different.
Do you shrink the armhole on the back panel with the iron before you baste the side seams? Do you shrink the center back seam between the blades?

You are doing very nice work.

 

[Thingamajig]

Letting out the center back doesn’t resolve this and can make it worse. There was an example in this thread last year when a tailor let out The center seam to fix this issue. It was a mess.
When the center seam is let out it creates a more curved shape. The area under the center seam between the blades is hollow. Just the opposite of a curve.
You need more cloth over the largest point of the blades and a relatively straight line on the center seam between the blades. This is achieved by working in more fullness on the back shoulder to drape over the blades.
This is the advise I gave and you can see the result on post 9,611. He had the same issue.
on a finished garment you let out the center seam at the neck 1/2” which adds 1” total across the back. Remark the yoke, adding 1/8” to the yoke width. Work the extra 3/8” of cloth into the back shoulder and shrink it in with the iron. This makes the back 3/4” wider across the blades without letting out between the blades. The amount you let out and how much fullness you can add is different in each situation.
You cant add as much fullness in light weight cloth.

Thanks for the input! That would be the case if the cloth was at a baste stage, but with a finished garment, it would be a lot harder as you said. Im based in Asia, and what we do here with a finished garment, is to open the center seam and after marking the amount we need to give the client, use ironwork to "push" the curve straight, giving ease and fullness to the blades while still keeping with the posture of the client. the seam is then sewn shut, "locking" the ease in place. But of course, there are alot of factors that go into this, including cloth weight and so on and so forth.

 

[Alx190]

Thank you! I work a lot at that jacket in order to get a good shape. It s very difficult when you are not a real tailor and you spent a lot of hours trying to solve an issue. I have to say i used a garment which helps me to get that results. Now i m working on a new jacket and i have some issues because of my blades and i don t know why things are different. I m waiting for some suggestions. Don t take into consideration the sleeves and the lapel, just the back.


Thank you!

@Alx190
every jacket you cut will be different because every cloth is different.
Do you shrink the armhole on the back panel with the iron before you baste the side seams? Do you shrink the center back seam between the blades?

You are doing very nice work.
[/QUOTE]


Thank you a lot, i think i have to learn how to do the ironwork, i couldn t find so many material about the ironwork. I will do what you told me and i will come back here with new photos. You should write a book

 

[Despos]

Thanks for the input! That would be the case if the cloth was at a baste stage, but with a finished garment, it would be a lot harder as you said. Im based in Asia, and what we do here with a finished garment, is to open the center seam and after marking the amount we need to give the client, use ironwork to "push" the curve straight, giving ease and fullness to the blades while still keeping with the posture of the client. the seam is then sewn shut, "locking" the ease in place. But of course, there are alot of factors that go into this, including cloth weight and so on and so forth.

We do the same as you. Are you working in a tailor shop?

 

[Despos]

@Alx190
every jacket you cut will be different because every cloth is different.
Do you shrink the armhole on the back panel with the iron before you baste the side seams? Do you shrink the center back seam between the blades?

You are doing very nice work.

Thank you a lot, i think i have to learn how to do the ironwork, i couldn t find so many material about the ironwork. I will do what you told me and i will come back here with new photos. You should write a book
[/QUOTE]
Do your know a tailor who can help you?

 

[Thingamajig]

We do the same as you. Are you working in a tailor shop?

Yep! But I don't see myself as any sort of authority, just came here to this thread to learn lol.

 

[Alx190]

Thank you a lot, i think i have to learn how to do the ironwork, i couldn t find so many material about the ironwork. I will do what you told me and i will come back here with new photos. You should write a book

Do your know a tailor who can help you?
[/QUOTE]
Hello, i m from Romania, to be honest with you, we don t have tailors who are able to make a real fullcanvas here, everybody use fused suits and they dont know how to prepare all this things.

I followed your instructions about shrinking the armhole area, the problem seems to be solved, it was a magic adviece and i`m gratefull for this, but i think i ve done something wrong, maybe i shrank it too much because now i have some wrinkles on the shoulder. I don t know where i put too much fullness, on the shoulder or on the armhole. How much fullness should i have on the back shoulder? I will upload a photo when i get home, now i put one photo in order to see the area where that wrinkles are.

Thank you!

 

[scruffier_than_ideal]

Hello, new member, first post. This thread/forum appears to be a great resource.

These are photos of me wearing a shirt from I bought from propercloth, which was made from body measurements taken from me (not their algorithm). I am having it remade (a bit unhappy with the amount of material in the back, there is also some pulling from the top button too). In fact in these photos it generally just looks like it doesn’t fit all that well (except perhaps shoulder width?). I would welcome any suggestions for what to change, because I am a bit lost… thanks in advance.

 

[scruffier_than_ideal]

You cannot change the button stance after the buttonholes are cut (how do you move a buttonhole?).

Do the button up before you move it

 

[gavspen]

Hi All,

I hope this is the right place to post this. How much can a good tailor reasonably downsize a jacket? I know the shoulders are difficult, but can a jacket that is around 47" in the chest be taken in enough to fit me, a guy with a 40 1/2" chest, which I guess would mean the jacket would need to be taken in to around 42-43"?

Let me know if I should be posting this elsewhere.

Thanks

 

[zr3rs]

I hope this is the right place to post this. How much can a good tailor reasonably downsize a jacket? I know the shoulders are difficult, but can a jacket that is around 47" in the chest be taken in enough to fit me, a guy with a 40 1/2" chest, which I guess would mean the jacket would need to be taken in to around 42-43"?

Unless it is a rare Vicuna jacket by a high-end bespoke tailor, it is not worth it.

 

[gavspen]

Unless it is a rare Vicuna jacket by a high-end bespoke tailor, it is not worth it.

It's Kiton. No idea what kind of wool.

I've had jacket's successfully taken in around the chest/waist before at reasonable expense. This question is really, how much can you take in do before things start to distort elsewhere.

 

[Sir Jack II]

Hello, new member, first post. This thread/forum appears to be a great resource.

These are photos of me wearing a shirt from I bought from propercloth, which was made from body measurements taken from me (not their algorithm). I am having it remade (a bit unhappy with the amount of material in the back, there is also some pulling from the top button too). In fact in these photos it generally just looks like it doesn’t fit all that well (except perhaps shoulder width?). I would welcome any suggestions for what to change, because I am a bit lost… thanks in advance.

Have you laundered the shirt? That might help the fit.

 

[scruffier_than_ideal]

Have you laundered the shirt? That might help the fit.

Thank you Sir Jack. Yes, I've washed it twice now.

 

[acapaca]

It's Kiton. No idea what kind of wool.

I've had jacket's successfully taken in around the chest/waist before at reasonable expense. This question is really, how much can you take in do before things start to distort elsewhere.

Do you mean that it measures 23.5" from pit to pit, and that your chest measures 40.5?

How are the shoulders? Are they where you normally like them? A little extended? This could be a bigger issue than the chest, assuming the chest can feasibly be done.