The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Johnny80]

The tailor can get the extra fabric from there.. but be sure the jacket has that issue when it stays straight on you,, because if you take too much is harder to put back imo

 

[TheChihuahua]

The tailor can get the extra fabric from there.. but be sure the jacket has that issue when it stays straight on you,, because if you take too much is harder to put back imo

Is it caused from having too slumped over posture?

 

[TheChihuahua]

The tailor can get the extra fabric from there.. but be sure the jacket has that issue when it stays straight on you,, because if you take too much is harder to put back imo

Is it caused from having too slumped over posture?
This isn’t actually my oicture, but it seems that it is a common issue for off the rack purchase for me.

 

[Johnny80]

Again, if the model is not staying straight then the fabric tend to move around, but if you have this issue when you stay straight , then, its easy for the tailor to take some the extra fabric from your back, between the shoulders

 

[Megakurth]

I’ve come across various photos of trousers with tabs in the back for braces/suspenders rather than buttons being sewn directly onto the waistband.


Is there an actual function to these or are they purely aesthetic?

 

[sjmin209]

I’ve come across various Instagram photos as well as on Kirby Allison’s recent video with Sartoria Gallo that have tabs that connect to braces/suspenders in the back of the trousers rather than the buttons being sewn directly to the waistband.
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Is there an actual function to these or are they purely aesthetic?

Get back to me tomorrow--perhaps I'll tell you then.

 

[Aloysius16]

my right shoulder is lower and more forward than my left side. As a result I tend to get creasing in jackets around the lower front part of the armhole, like in the picture here. It goes away if I force my shoulder back into a more standard position but returns when I stand naturally. I assume my armpit is pushing against the jacket armhole and buckling the upper chest.

is there any kind of alteration that can help?

The overall jacket size is ok, and this is an issue I get with many of my jackets to a greater or lesser extent.

 

[Despos]

my right shoulder is lower and more forward than my left side. As a result I tend to get creasing in jackets around the lower front part of the armhole, like in the picture here. It goes away if I force my shoulder back into a more standard position but returns when I stand naturally. I assume my armpit is pushing against the jacket armhole and buckling the upper chest.

is there any kind of alteration that can help?

The overall jacket size is ok, and this is an issue I get with many of my jackets to a greater or lesser extent.


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Shoulder slope of the jacket is off. It's tight on your shoulder point and the breaking/fold is the result. Not related to your arm pressing against anything

 

[Aloysius16]

Shoulder slope of the jacket is off. It's tight on your shoulder point and the breaking/fold is the result. Not related to your arm pressing against anything

Assume no alteration can fix this kind of issue? I get similar on the right side of pretty much all my jackets

 

[Despos]

Assume no alteration can fix this kind of issue? I get similar on the right side of pretty much all my jackets

Sometimes, yes. It’s a complicated adjustment and limited to the jacket being cut, made and no outlets in that area. Your picture shows the issue but not enough to diagnose the solution. That type of work should be consider as reconstruction, not an alteration.

 

[acapaca]

Question about front-back balance. Should we always be aiming for a more or less horizontal line to the hem of the jacket, as viewed from the side? I've got a prominent seat, so I tend to prefer longer lengths in the back, but I don't mind a shorter look in the front.

 

[Despos]

Question about front-back balance. Should we always be aiming for a more or less horizontal line to the hem of the jacket, as viewed from the side? I've got a prominent seat, so I tend to prefer longer lengths in the back, but I don't mind a shorter look in the front.

NEVER!

 

[Aloysius16]

Sometimes, yes. It’s a complicated adjustment and limited to the jacket being cut, made and no outlets in that area. Your picture shows the issue but not enough to diagnose the solution. That type of work should be consider as reconstruction, not an alteration.

Oh well, as I thought really. Thanks for the advice

 

[acapaca]

NEVER!

This means never have the back be 'longer' than the front, I take it?

Maybe I should find some pictures to post, but I've got some jackets where the front actually seems to curve downward, tracing a line from the side seam to the quarters. And then I have some with (relatively, at least) open quarters that don't seem to do that at all.

I guess I'm just trying to figure out what we are aiming for.

 

[nevaeh]

I’ve come across various photos of trousers with tabs in the back for braces/suspenders rather than buttons being sewn directly onto the waistband.
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Is there an actual function to these or are they purely aesthetic?

Not a tailor, so a hypothesis on my end. But perhaps for added comfort, so that there is more movement (with the added fabric) and the plastic/metal part of the suspenders are not sitting in the waistband?