The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Aly.B]

One of the first things I check when buying OTR is how much cloth is there on the inseams (back and side on jackets, sides and seat on trousers), to make sure I'll be able to alter as much as I want/need.

I’ll take a detailed look at that today. Even a couple of inches extra cloth around the calves should be fine to give the trousers some fall along the legs and break at the shoe.

 

[singhudit61]

Did the three members agree to do this, btw? I could see them getting behind on requests, haha.

 

[Aly.B]

Could you give me some suggestions for good shirt-makers that make shirts in a $100 range?

 

[ChasingStyle]

I understand that as long as the jacket fits goes around the shoulders and length wise, I think the rest could be tweaked easily. Am I correct? Since, I read around here that doing anything with the shoulders requires a major alteration and isn’t cost effective either.

Correct - and length to some extent is adjustable too (shortening limited by pocket placement, lengthening limited by available cloth)

I am based in New Jersey, US and have no idea if there are any stores near me that carry these brands. I haven’t seen these at Nordstroms, NM, or Saks.

Maybe a drive into NYC could give you quite a few opportunities to try things out?

 

[ChasingStyle]

Could you give me some suggestions for good shirt-makers that make shirts in a $100 range?

At that price range, Charles Tyrwhitt, Harvie & Hudson, Turnbull & Asser are all good options.
If you want fancier collars, you could try one of the many "build your own" online options.

 

[Aly.B]

Correct - and length to some extent is adjustable too (shortening limited by pocket placement, lengthening limited by available cloth)




Maybe a drive into NYC could give you quite a few opportunities to try things out?

Any stores in particular that you may be familiar with that carry these brands?

 

[Aly.B]

At that price range, Charles Tyrwhitt, Harvie & Hudson, Turnbull & Asser are all good options.
If you want fancier collars, you could try one of the many "build your own" online options.

I do have 3 or 4 shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt but their collars are pretty standard width. Have no experience with H&H or T&A. I like slim fitting shirts that don’t have a lot of excessive fabric around the body. Which out of these two would you say fit slimmer?
Any thoughts on RLPL or Zegna shirts?

 

[ChasingStyle]

Any stores in particular that you may be familiar with that carry these brands?

I have no clue on what's open and what isn't. Suit Supply, Armoury (they carry Ring and a few other brands if I'm not mistaken), plus the usual department stores (Macys?). Take the opportunity to look above your price range too, not with the intent of buying, but also with getting a sense for the different styles and what looks good on you and what doesn't. Zegna, Brioni, etc. I would not buy from them (I personally think they are wildly overpriced), but they will give you a sense for what the upper range of a OTR Italian suit looks like.

 

[Aly.B]

I would also greatly appreciate if experienced members could give me any recommendations for good mens tailors whom I could visit for fit alterations without worrying about my suits/clothing getting messed up.

 

[ChasingStyle]

I do have 3 or 4 shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt but their collars are pretty standard width. Have no experience with H&H or T&A. I like slim fitting shirts that don’t have a lot of excessive fabric around the body. Which out of these two would you say fit slimmer?
Any thoughts on RLPL or Zegna shirts?

most RTW shirts in your price range will have standard width collars afaik. You can go with a “build your own” online option.

No experience with Zagna or RLPL, but I’d imagine they are well above 100 a pop?

 

[othertravel]

Hello members,

I am new to this forum so please pardon my mistakes in my post here.

I am starting to build my professional work wardrobe (canvassed suits, welted shoes, and the accoutrements) and recently pulled the trigger on a RLPL Gregory suits. I first purchased a 40R but that was way too tight all around and the jacket fit too short (I prefer regular/normal length well-fitted jackets as compared to the fashion-forward shirt jackets) for my liking. So, I exchanged that one for a 42L.
I need fitting/alteration advice from respected members here in regards to what kind of alterations do I need to make it fit perfectly (I’m aware finding an OTR suit that fits perfectly is an impossible task), and most importantly: is this suit even worth altering? This suit cost me a $1000 so I also need advice whether, after incorporating all the alteration costs, it is worth it or am I better off returning it and look for something else?
As for the use of this suit, for now, this suit will primarily be used for interviews or any upcoming weddings. Keeping that in mind, please advise if it’s formal/appropriate enough for such events. I would greatly appreciate your kind suggestions/recommendations.
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This is tricky. The shoulder looks fine, but there's small issues throughout the jacket and trouser that have already been identified.

I know that someone mentioned that it looks better than 99% of what other people wear, but for a $1000 you definitely want a suit that fits very well, even if it's off the rack.

Is this a Gregory from their hand tailored, or hand made line?

 

[Aly.B]

most RTW shirts in your price range will have standard width collars afaik. You can go with a “build your own” online option.

No experience with Zagna or RLPL, but I’d imagine they are well above 100 a pop?

Would I need something with extra wide collars to make it work with these lapels or the standard width that one finds at Charles Tyrwhitt or H&H would work with it? And I assume cutaway or spread collars wouldn’t work with these lapels. It would have to be standard collars. Am I correct?

 

[Aly.B]

This is tricky. The shoulder looks fine, but there's small issues throughout the jacket and trouser that have already been identified.

I know that someone mentioned that it looks better than 99% of what other people wear, but for a $1000 you definitely want a suit that fits very well, even if it's off the rack.

Is this a Gregory from their hand tailored, or hand made line?

The issues other respected members have identified, I understand that there is nothing major that can’t be easily altered to improve the overall fit. Is that correct?

Yes, it’s a Gregory from their hand-tailored line. While we are talking about the models from RLPL line, do you have any experience with their Douglas models?

 

[ChasingStyle]

Would I need something with extra wide collars to make it work with these lapels or the standard width that one finds at Charles Tyrwhitt or H&H would work with it? And I assume cutaway or spread collars wouldn’t work with these lapels. It would have to be standard collars. Am I correct?

i think the regular collar would be fine. But you can take the jacket into a CT store with you and see what option you like best.

 

[othertravel]

The issues other respected members have identified, I understand that there is nothing major that can’t be easily altered to improve the overall fit. Is that correct?

Yes, it’s a Gregory from their hand-tailored line. While we are talking about the models from RLPL line, do you have any experience with their Douglas models?

Gregory from the hand tailored line is a strange cut. Based on the Anthony, it has a ridiculous amount of shoulder padding compared to other well known makers.

You might have better luck with Gregory from the handmade line, which is made by a different company, and cuts a more elegant silhouette. But it does have a higher price.

As somebody who was in your situation, I’d say get a suit that fits better off the rack, and then alter it.

Also, the sleeves look off (armhole might need to be rotated?).