The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Thank you for the reply. Sorry, I explained badly, I did not mean the chest was bowing outwards, away from my chest at all, just that the inside of the lapel/chest was curving. Compare mine to this image on the right. The line from the collar to the buttoning point is much more straight, and I thought the curve in mine meant a too small chest? I could be completely wrong on this (and probably am). Possibly my collar needs to be tighter to bring the top of the lapel in?
View attachment 1543333

I see what you mean about the wrinkles in the back, but I don't know what to do regarding the big fold on the left sleeve here. It's hard to see in the photo, but it sort of folds over itself, and I can't work out what causes it.
View attachment 1543334

Here are artificially brightened trouser pictures:
View attachment 1543335

Those black lines along the break line distorts the view, can’t tell. It’s minor and probably more about the workmanship than the cut. I don’t think MTM sewing techniques will ever satisfy you enough. MTM is limited. It’s just a factory made suit cut to your measurements. There isn’t the attention to technique and sewing that a custom tailor can do
Trousers aren’t sitting on your hips properly, poor trouser Balance. Could be related to workmanship too.
Can’t see anything about the sleeve but from previous pictures it needs to be turned back.

Have you ever had a major weight loss, maybe more than 25 pounds?

 

[CorozoButton]

Those black lines along the break line distorts the view, can’t tell. It’s minor and probably more about the workmanship than the cut. I don’t think MTM sewing techniques will ever satisfy you enough. MTM is limited. It’s just a factory made suit cut to your measurements. There isn’t the attention to technique and sewing that a custom tailor can do
Trousers aren’t sitting on your hips properly, poor trouser Balance. Could be related to workmanship too.
Can’t see anything about the sleeve but from previous pictures it needs to be turned back.

Have you ever had a major weight loss, maybe more than 25 pounds?

It's strange you ask, but I lost 4/5 stone between the ages of 16 and 22, some 8/9 years ago now. Could I ask why you ask? Is there something about my posture/figuration that suggests that happened?

I get the left sleeve folding over on every jacket I get, but have never been able to work out what it is about me that causes it. Someone once speculated that the left sleeve needed more height in the sleeve cap - would that make any sense?

Do you have advice for how to fix the trouser balance at all?

Do you think the collar measurement may be a little big on this?

Thank you again.

 

[Despos]

It's strange you ask, but I lost 4/5 stone between the ages of 16 and 22, some 8/9 years ago now. Could I ask why you ask? Is there something about my posture/figuration that suggests that happened?

I get the left sleeve folding over on every jacket I get, but have never been able to work out what it is about me that causes it. Someone once speculated that the left sleeve needed more height in the sleeve cap - would that make any sense?

Do you have advice for how to fix the trouser balance at all?

Do you think the collar measurement may be a little big on this?

Thank you again.

That's a big weight loss. Have worked with clients for so long I see the signs of weight loss. It leaves an imprint.

You may have a forward shoulder and need the sleeve cap on the left shaped differently. I really don't know just a guess.

Trouser issue is built into the pattern. It doesn't work for you.
Hard to correct, requires a different draft of the pattern
One thing I notice is you have a high right hip and low left. Very typical to have a high hip on the same side as your low right shoulder. The left side of the trouser is collapsing and some of those wrinkles are caused by this. Try Pulling the trouser up at the left outseam and the wrinkles will clean up.

Collar is big when you have a smaller neck size than normal in relation to your chest size. It is rarely an issue

 

[GaiusM]

Can a short front rise be altered or is it too late once a jacket is finished?

Assuming it can't is the front rise alterable from a pattern? Were I to have another jacket made by the same tailor would they be able to accomodate such a request within their standard MTM? Or are all these questions better addressed to the tailor himself?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

 

[Despos]

Very complicated to make the fronts longer and change the balance of a finished jacket. If the balance is off on this jacket, discuss it with the maker or whoever you worked with. The changes can be incorporated into the next jacket. You need someone who is a good fitter and understands what changes to make and communicate with the factory.
Besides the fit, From comments in your first post, I don’t think you are happy with the overall look or the silhouette of this jacket . It will improve some if the fit is corrected but won’t change if the same pattern/model is used.
rise is a term for trousers but doesn’t apply to a jacket .

 

[GaiusM]

Very complicated to make the fronts longer and change the balance of a finished jacket. If the balance is off on this jacket, discuss it with the maker or whoever you worked with. The changes can be incorporated into the next jacket. You need someone who is a good fitter and understands what changes to make and communicate with the factory.
Besides the fit, From comments in your first post, I don’t think you are happy with the overall look or the silhouette of this jacket . It will improve some if the fit is corrected but won’t change if the same pattern/model is used.
rise is a term for trousers but doesn’t apply to a jacket .

Thanks for the advice. Rise is completely my mistake, was thinking balance and just blanked when I typed.
Will speak with the tailor to see what can be done next time. Test jacket looked much better on me than this one. If not then back to searching for another tailor here.
Thanks again

 

[Despos]

Thanks for the advice. Rise is completely my mistake, was thinking balance and just blanked when I typed.
Will speak with the tailor to see what can be done next time. Test jacket looked much better on me than this one. If not then back to searching for another tailor here.
Thanks again

Nothing wrong with visiting your tailor and review the jacket with him and discuss the fit and what you like and don’t like. Ask what he would change on the next one. You’ll find out if he is the guy to work or look elsewhere

 

[acapaca]

One thing I notice is you have a high right hip and low left. Very typical to have a high hip on the same side as your low right shoulder.

I've seen you mention this before and have always been curious about it. Any idea what, if anything particular, causes these things? I have a dropped right shoulder and a high left hip -- so, opposite sides -- and I've half wondered if it didn't come from a whole lot of golf practice over the years.

 

[Despos]

I've seen you mention this before and have always been curious about it. Any idea what, if anything particular, causes these things? I have a dropped right shoulder and a high left hip -- so, opposite sides -- and I've half wondered if it didn't come from a whole lot of golf practice over the years.

My observations are from a tailoring perspective I can't explain physical anomalies. Worked for two professional golfers and saw they both had larger muscle mass on their left side from years of playing golf.
It is more thenorm to have a low shoulder or high hip than to be even on both sides.

 

[BB_Adept]

I've seen you mention this before and have always been curious about it. Any idea what, if anything particular, causes these things? I have a dropped right shoulder and a high left hip -- so, opposite sides -- and I've half wondered if it didn't come from a whole lot of golf practice over the years.

Leg length usually differs and people develop muscular imbalances over time. As long as you do not have any issues (pain e.g.) you are fine.
An entirely symmetrical body is fairly rare (if at all existent).

 

[Despos]

Leg length usually differs and people develop muscular imbalances over time. As long as you do not have any issues (pain e.g.) you are fine.
An entirely symmetrical body is fairly rare (if at all existent).

This last sentence defines the different approaches of RTW and custom tailoring. RTW is based on a symmetrical figure. A well proportioned mannequin. Tailoring is fitting a 3 dimensional figure with imbalances that isn't symmetrical.

 

[dauster]

Just bought this isaia wool/ cashmere jacket (dominico) at Neiman on a huge sale. Looks pretty decent, what do you guys think?

Sleeves will be shortened 1/2 inch, and back taken out so it doesn't show these stretch marks. Will see, have not much hope that NM tailor will do a good job but too lazy to go hike to the city to my usual tailor only to pay triple I guess this is just an experiment haven't bought anything at NM in a while.

 

[papado]

Just bought this isaia wool/ cashmere jacket (dominico) at Neiman on a huge sale. Looks pretty decent, what do you guys think?

Sleeves will be shortened 1/2 inch, and back taken out so it doesn't show these stretch marks. Will see, have not much hope that NM tailor will do a good job but too lazy to go hike to the city to my usual tailor only to pay triple I guess this is just an experiment haven't bought anything at NM in a while.

I think those tweaks should work--also in the event it 'goes bad' I think you should be able to fix it as it's a straight seam but perhaps the real tailors can opine in more detail.

I picked up an Isaia blazer at a great sale during Bergdorf's clearance sale this past couple weeks (NM hadn't run similar add'l x% off yet but in reality stock across both is 99% the same)--cashmere/silk Sanita! Need to take this to my tailor once it stops snowing here in NYC.

 

[dauster]

I think those tweaks should work--also in the event it 'goes bad' I think you should be able to fix it as it's a straight seam but perhaps the real tailors can opine in more detail.

I picked up an Isaia blazer at a great sale during Bergdorf's clearance sale this past couple weeks (NM hadn't run similar add'l x% off yet but in reality stock across both is 99% the same)--cashmere/silk Sanita! Need to take this to my tailor once it stops snowing here in NYC.
View attachment 1551109

I was eying this specific one too but they didn’t have it in my size. Saks also had a huge sale in Isaia but lost fabrics were too colorful for me.

 

[willxxx]

Hi, Long time lurker here. Just had the second fitting of my bespoke suit and am looking for comments and suggestions on how to make the suit better!

In general, I'm quite happy with the front after lowering the button stance for around an inch. Not entirely satisfied with the sleeves and back. The upper back is nice but the bulging around the right armhole and break around the waist is bothering. Also, looking for advice on how to clean up the pants and remove the break around knee level.

Any help would be appreciated!